Battle Wagon Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Read several threads on this topic but still can't decide which trailing arms to use to correct geometry on my 93 legacy. KYB/ King spring lift, 28" tires ... Mixed reviews on the EBay stuff ( Godpeed and the like) - http://m.ebay.com/itm/260834552691?cmd=VIDESC&gxo=true http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=190804344943 Cusco and OBX are pretty spendy... Thoughts ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthCoast Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 I bought the cheaper ones you have listed. They work just fine. Cheaper to buy those than rebuild them but they are rebuild-able. Depending on the size of your lift and how you have the trailing arm connected it may need to be modified. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shotgun_Willie Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 I think that I have the same ones as Northcoast on my Forester, they seem to work fine with my 2" strut top lift. I think I've had them on for about a year now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Battle Wagon Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 Thanks for the replies. Ordered the Godspeed kit. Did you guys block down the front mounting points for the trailing arms ? If so, what worked best ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthCoast Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 No blocks. Blocks just give you a spot to get hung up on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Battle Wagon Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 North coast - were you able to re-center the wheel with just the trailing arm adjustment ? I saw in another thread where someone was pointing out that you may have suspension binding issues with your setup. What's your take ? How likely is it to bend stuff or have premature wear on bushings ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Battle Wagon Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 Is the idea to get the strut perfectly vertical ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthCoast Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 North coast - were you able to re-center the wheel with just the trailing arm adjustment ? Yes, although mine is lengthened to compensate for the 7" lift. There is plenty of adjustment to compensate for a strut only lift. legacygt4 did the same thing in his thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140225-my-1998-legacy-outback/ I saw in another thread where someone was pointing out that you may have suspension binding issues with your setup. What's your take ? How likely is it to bend stuff or have premature wear on bushings ? My take? That guy is a ... oh wait, this isn't Rally Anarchy. Free speech not allowed here. I don't have any suspension binding and won't have any unless I find a magic set of super suspender struts that would increase my travel by a minimum of 4". Likelihood of bending stuff is relative to your speed vs the mass of the object you hit. Premature bushing wear? I'll answer your question with these questions. How long are bushings supposed to last? How often do you wash your car? How do you drive it? My take on bushings is this... If they last two years with the abuse I put on them then I'm happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 North coast - were you able to re-center the wheel with just the trailing arm adjustment ? I saw in another thread where someone was pointing out that you may have suspension binding issues with your setup. What's your take ? How likely is it to bend stuff or have premature wear on bushings ? The suspension binding issues is because the control arms pivot around different axis's.However, it is "solved" with the heim joints because they allow much more sideways deflection than the stock rubber bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetricMuscle Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 How much travel are you able to get with this arrangement? Is toe effected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthCoast Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Toe is not effected. Travel is approximately 7.5" down and a little less up because it rubs the top of the wheel well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetricMuscle Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Wow, so over 12" from full droop to full bump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climbing4life Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Hey guys, I've just signed up. I'm lifting a 1997 Legacy with 06 Forester strut assemblies. I'm just about to order adjustable trailing arms from Godspeed (first link in post #1). I can order etiher 6pcs set with lateral links or just 2 trailing arms. I can see that I do need longer trailing arms to correct geometry. Do I need the godspeed lateral links or is the stock fine? They don't list Legacys in compatible vehicle list, and I'm wondering whether lateral links help or are a waste of money for a Legacy. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Wow, so over 12" from full droop to full bump? Toe is not effected. Travel is approximately 7.5" down and a little less up because it rubs the top of the wheel well. Hmm......I am suspect of these numbers. You are still running stock forrester/outback struts. They don't have 12" of travel.....no matter what linkage/trailing arms you run. Max would be about 9" if you can make the strut rod travel it's full stroke.....although I think the Coil spring compresses to nearly solid before the strut rod will bottom out. In reallity I'd be surprised if there was 8" of total travel. It's a beautiful setup.....nice car.......Not trying to knock anyones work.......Just putting a slightly more skeptical eye on things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthCoast Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Max would be about 9" if you can make the strut rod travel it's full stroke.....although I think the Coil spring compresses to nearly solid before the strut rod will bottom out. In reallity I'd be surprised if there was 8" of total travel. It's a beautiful setup.....nice car.......Not trying to knock anyones work.......Just putting a slightly more skeptical eye on things. Agreed. I've never measured the travel just guesstimating. c4l... get the 6 piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 I think people are mistaking taking both up and down and adding them. It is a Total number. SO, when you add lift, depending on where you do it, it changes the up travel , and droop of said complete suspension travel. So when you need full range of motion it is set where you want it to be. Most successful systems for Subaru I have found have remained in the stock travel limitations with uptravel being slightly less than droop. That also depends on the vehicle(EA, or EJ). Just sayin.. cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climbing4life Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Thanks NorthCoast and monstaru!I'm just done with the lift. This is my first thing so please bare with me.I have not yet bought Godspeed adjustable trailing arms, so I finished my todays project with trailing arm brackets that I pulled off a 99 Legacy Outback.I've spent long time lying under the car and looking at the components.So I thought thatmonstaru, please correct me:if I was using a longer strut, then I'd need to drop the trailing arm bracket a certaing distance down to correct geometery. Ideally, I'd use a block between trailing arm bracket and body. (I didn't, so I used a bigger bracket to compensate for the longer strut.)I want to do it right (a succesfull system for Subaru)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Using the lower angle Outback trailing arm bracket is what most folks do to compensate for the adverse angle caused by using a longer strut.( If thats what you meant) NOrthcoast was basically stating that. Having a block there makes it very easy to get caught up. And using a longer strut is what I did with Stella, in conjunction with some smaller style blocks. And just FYI, once you find your weakness', it is very possible you come out with a better way to do anything.Keep laying underneath the car and staring at it. It only helps. lol cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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