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  1. Yesterday
  2. Good idea to me. Keeping anything out of the intake/cylinders that shouldn’t be there is always a good idea for engine health!! You could remove the cam belt and allow the cam to rotate to its free-spinning zone. This is when all valves are closed in both cylinders on that bank. Cheers Bennie
  3. Great Job, Share photos of your Lifted Subie with this Suspension Combo Kind Regards.
  4. Rear EJ CV shafts won’t fit the EA gear. The outer stub axle is a completely different design. Inner cups MAY fit the original EA rear shafts but that’s a big gamble to make for two inner cups. Best bet would be to contact places outside of Europe. Subarino could be a good source, I can’t say if he’s got exactly what you want but he might be able to source and ship the parts you need. Otherwise second hand is your best bet. Cheers Bennie
  5. I got the dorman kit from O'Reilly's for 12$ bolts right up just remove the old thermo choke from the bracket and put the new one in, difficult part is routing the choke cable and finding somewhere to mount the cable bracket
  6. Last week
  7. Surely someone must've already tried fitting EJ axles in the rear of an EA car?
  8. Code compliance issue is no longer - gave the compliance officer a call and he was extremely easy to work with. Donor husk is in the garage for the time being, but apparently a car cover will suffice if I need to move it back out into the drive. That out of the way, we got the first test fitting of the EJ out of the way yesterday. It would appear that with only a slight extension of the mounting slots on the original crossmember, the new engine should drop right into it, but as expected the fit is very, very tight. It could (by my measurements anyway) be done without notching the frame, however that would leave mere millimeters of clearance at the back of the valve covers. It will still be a much tighter fit than its original chassis even with notching, so like past builders I will also be notching the frame. (Noted where I'm notching things out in blue sharpie in the photo.) I should have about a half inch of clearance on either side when that's complete unless I find a way to relocate that forward mounting bolt for the subframe - in which case I can probably get a little more. I also have 99% of the original wiring harness out of the donor now, and I'm pretty decided on attempting a full retrofit of most of the newer components into the old car, including the HVAC system. By my eye everything *should* fit, but it will be extremely tight. Since I'm also going as far as installing pretty much everything else of note from the impreza, I'm also considering either adapting the power steering rack to fit the old Brat crossmember, or adapting the Impreza crossmember to fit the Brat, although I suspect the simplest route would be to ditch the power steering in its entirety and just use the original Brat steering gear. My only concern there would be replacement of components on the steering gear down the line - I hate having to track down parts for weeks or months at a time. These next few days I'll be pulling the old 4 speed from the Brat and starting on the frame notching job. Somewhere in there I'm also going to do a refresh on the EJ while it's accessible. Oil pump, rear main seal, timing kit, that kind of thing, but that will likely be after the new year holiday, especially since I forsee a lot of removal and reinstall of the new engine and transmission while i do the fabrication on the crossmember, firewall, and transmission tunnel to get those to fit where they need to be. PS - as i build on this I'll be putting the parts and pieces I no longer need up for sale, including the complete but now partially disassembled EA71 engine. Maybe someone with more patience or skill can get that head free and give this thing a new life. Same goes with the transmission and other miscellaneous components as I go.
  9. Hello, first post here after reading a lot. Please forgive the length, I feel a little history is important for troubleshooting, and it may help document my path for the next person. I've been working on resolving two related issues on my 1986 Vanagon swapped with 1992 Legacy EJ22. Initial situation: Van failed smog at 15 mph, but just barely passing at 25 mph. Engine would experience mild misfire at idle (500 rpm). Engine would lose power, as in cut out and sometimes die during two general scenarios: A. while accelerating from stop and during great changes over approx 2000 rpm; B. at constant speed on flat ground randomly, bumps in the road didn't matter (tested on freeway). Initial set-up: MAF - AUTECS (22680AA160F, original to engine?) O2 sensor - AUTECS(?), original to engine? ECU - AUTECS (22611AA931F from 1992 Legacy), not sure if original to engine Fuel injectors - gray tops Fuel rails - black stickers, Left 17523AA050, Right 17522AA090 Idle hang - I've read this is common. Engine idles at 500 rpm affording to tacho. On start-up idle shoots up to 1500 rpm and hangs for a couple minutes. Starting to drive it'll still hang for another 5 minutes or so until I've been able to get past the stop signs and onto a side road going 30 mph or so. Research pointed to many possible problems that led to troubleshooting and some fixes: 1. Vacuum leaks? - all intake manifold small OD hoses renewed (sump vent, IACV inlet, etc). PCV valve replaced. 2. Spark plugs bad? - Replaced recently with NGK set, but pulled all plugs again, all plugs looked almost like brand new, very little discoloration. Thinking lean cylinder condition? 3. O2 sensor bad? - removed and checked voltage w/ propane torch, reacted like Haynes said it should. 4. Ignition coil pack bad? - couldn't open the connector to check per Haynes, and I didn't want to destroy it since the pigtails seem short for repairing with a new connector type. Tabled this because it doesn't sound like a cylinder is ever cutting out. Test Drive 1 - short drive around the city Test Drive 1 Conclusion - no change. 5. MAF connector bad? - checked if bad connector first, engine would die when red wire jiggled, so connector was depinned, no more dying from jiggling. Misfire at idle still present. 6. MAF bad? - haven't cleaned yet, but wary of stories that they get ruined from cleaner sprays. Checked air filter, mildly dusty on the outside. Bought spare Denso MAF and Denso O2 Sensor to replace as set in case I need to go there. Tried "unplugging" MAF by removing red wire (connector depinned) while engine running and engine died. Not sure if this is any real indication of MAF being good or bad? 7. Oil level wrong? - changed oil + oil filter, and good thing I did because the sump was only about half full 😅 Test Drive 2 - drove over an hour on streets including flat ground and hilly. Misfire at idle still present, power loss events got worse and worse toward end of drive. Near end of drive found positive battery cable loose. Tightened up, power loss event less frequent but still happening over 2000 rpm. Arrived home. I'm pretty sure the battery cable loosened up during the drive. Test Drive 2 Conclusion - Overall no change, except less ticking from valve lifters. I then figured on focusing on possible Fuel System issues. 8. Water in fuel? - didn't do any checks / changes since I figured probability was low, fuel tank was ~1/2 full, maybe 4 months old 9. Fuel filter bad? - replaced fuel filter, looked original to van 10. Dirty injectors? - Found out EJ22 ECU needs to be matched to injectors, and that the red tops perform better in general. Also found out that it seems gray top injectors weren't installed on 1992 Legacies, could be wrong here. Bought a set of red top injectors (for 1992 EJ22 from eBay). Sent both sets of gray and red top injectors for cleaning before installing the red tops. Test report indicated that both sets had very poor spray pattern and flow before cleaning. Reinstalled red top injectors. Also cleaned the two ground points under the air filter housing. Test Drive 3 - Engine started up to 1500 rpm as before, came down to idle at 500 rpm fairly quickly (improvement). Test drive around city to warm up, then uphill to load the engine. Engine didn't lose power at acceleration from stop anymore, unless revved over 3500 rpm like for gear shift. Engine also didn't bog down and lose power suddenly going uphill. Test Drive 3 Conclusion - Much better, all in all very satisfied with the improvement, but not 100% yet. 11. Unrelated, coolant temp gauge not working - coolant gauge on the dash still didn't work after refurbing the cluster earlier - I found the wire in the engine compartment and pushed it onto the "sender" nub. #11 Result - the gauge works! But now the engine misfires constantly at idle, worse than before, so much that it will die within 20 seconds of starting unless I increase throttle. WTF? LOL. Hmmm maybe voltage leak-off to ground somewhere, and this is when I decided to post this. See video: Moving forward, I think the best bet is to check ground / voltage drops on that coolant temp wire, and the harness bundle it goes into. And also check all the ground connections to the engine. Question 1 - has anybody had similar experiences to above that had worked through it and came to a solution for their set-up? Question 2 - anybody have a simple diagram or description of all the engine and electronics grounds, or ideas for upgrading the grounding of the engine? I seem to recall some saying there could be between 4 to 6 ground points in the engine bay(?) Question 3 - anybody experienced misfiring due to a bad ground or other wiring issue similar to above? Question 4 - anybody know if there's a ground wire in this bundle from which the coolant temp sender wire pops out of? Many thanks for taking the time to read! -V
  10. Moosens. Please take a look at the last image in my last post ".. and before I stuffed the sock in the intake port (to block dirt and debris) I looked down into it and I see a pile of "oxide crystals" https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/186408-ea82-replacing-manifold-gaskets
  11. I see there is not a lot of responses, I guess it's difficult finding quality axles for everyone? Would this impreza axle work in the back? It seems that the splines and length are oke? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/gsp/13921401
  12. Thank you! The bolts didn't break probably cause they're hardened or tempered, they have a #7 on the top of the bolts. Yea first I'm going to hit the bolts and threads with a wire wheel but probably use a die on this particularly bad rusted one - the rest didn't look as bad - 3 of them came out easily. Will see Started a new topic for doing the gaskets and hopefully getting it back together without putting some of the spaghetti back in the wrong holes.. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/186408-ea82-replacing-manifold-gaskets
  13. after getting the bolts out (serious slow torture on the rusted encrusted ones https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/186067-any-new-ideas-for-the-old-intake-manifold-stuck-bolt-problem ) then had to clean up the surfaces - the right side was so pitted I ended up taking it down with a medium diamond hone. The first and second image are from just scraping it with a sharp putty knife and carefully filing with a old "cross hatch" file - not happy.. so I worked it for about 3 minutes total with this medium diamond hone. Walla! did the same to the bottom of the manifold - but only removed what lines, pipes,sm0g stuff, etc. I needed to in order to lift it up only a few inches, so I had to use my selfie camera and it doesn't focus (kinda like my eyes now ) as I'm hoding the cell phone camera facing up .. kinda like holding a minature yoga pose Here's a couple of images using a "dental mirror" showing the ends of the manifold's water galley, I think I need to clean it up more BUT it was getting too cold and the wind and fog were rolling in.. .. and before I stuffed the sock in the intake port I looked down into it and I see a pile of "oxide crystals" so I'm going to make sure that intake valve is closed and try to get a skinny rubber hose attached to a vacuum cleaner down past it and knock most of it lose with a chopstick .. if yea all think that's a good idea?
  14. Hey all. I am trying to splice in the wiring from my 88 Rx to a 93 Ej 2.2 and the wiring diagrams I have aren't jiving. On the Ea I have: 1 big white wire, black/white stripe, & white/red stripe On the Ej I have: 1 big white wire, black/white stripe, & yellow Obviously, big whites go together, I know the white/red stripe is the charge light on the Ea. Which one from the Ej is the charge light? Or, does someone know another way to figure this out?????? Please advise. Thx
  15. I did read it and it was not clear. Maybe adding the words dash or instrument panel would have made it clearer.
  16. I bow to you sir ! Congratulations. Thread chasers ? Due to clean up the bolts? Or find fresh ones. If find yourself getting fussy here in CT we’ve got this killer little place called the Nutty Company. And you’ll get pretty much what you need there. Not that you necessarily need these but I’d check your exhaust studs too. And if you care to the Nutty Co. has threaded rod in that size. I picked up a length and have taken a few cuts from it for various exhaust studs from 1600s to 2.2 and maybe the 2.5 too. Just a little info. Good luck.
  17. Yikes! Wiring is going to be a chore. I wish I had some harnesses to help you out. If you don’t mind please send me an email at moosens@yahoo.com just so I can send pics etc easier. Here on the USMB I need to sort out my pictures and maybe cough up some more donations. Otherwise I’d post pics here. Not sure how you feel about this but we used to say the 1600 was bulletproof. And then came the 2.2 and people called it 2.2 magic. I’d say it’s the best engine the public ever got with my beloved 1600s second place. That’s why I have an approximately 4,000 mile 2.2 engine and harness ready to put into my Coupe someday. Going to send you a message too. Talk soon.
  18. If you zoom in to the passenger side of this underhood shot (this came from the original auction listing before I bought it) you can see the socket retainer clips loose on the back of the headlight shell.
  19. As a matter of fact the headlights are a particular problem. In the little bit of time I’ve been able to spend under the hood I discovered some wiring has been damaged/chewed including the headlight wiring. In fact the sockets themselves are gone and wire is missing on both sides all the way back to where it comes out of the loom inside each fender. I also found damaged wire at the cam position, crank position and knock sensor plugs so that’ll have to get fixed right away as well. let me know what you want for the headlight setups, the lenses themselves are a bit foggy but I’m not opposed to polishing them for the time being.
  20. Got em all out without breaking any - I don't think Ive stripped the holes either but haven't cleaned it up yet. For this really tough bolt I decided to use a "paint stripper" heat gun on high for about 15 minutes and it still wouldn't budge so drilled a 2nd hole down closer to the threads, earlier had drilled a hole about in the middle of the column to get the penetrating oil down into the crud in the bottom inch of the column also. After drilling this second hole and then using a lot of penetrating oil, then heat, I had progress had to heat up down by the head for at least 10 minutes with paint stripper heat gun, that's why my aluminum shield has turned golden brown .. I tried a M.A.P. torch but it was to scary and causing way to much smoke for my comfort.. and wiggled back and forth tell I could get about 1/4 turn, came back next day tried it cold no t so much movement so heated it up again and kept working it back and forth - but not going as far in as out.. then add more sauce.. do it again and eventually.. Here's the bolt right after I got it out - I used a lot of B'laster penetration oil, and couldn't get it moving with the 3/8" impact gun - had to really push and pull on this ratchet - really hoping the bolt wouldn't break,, kind of amazed it didn't
  21. Sounds like we’re the same type of uhh ……enthusiasts. But I’d stop short of the 360. With me it’s the early 70’s now. I’ve got my 73 Coupe and 77 stage one 4WD wagon. And my daily is a 94 same as you’re taking on, 2.2 first generation Legacy. Probably the best car they ever gave us. Enjoy ! Let me know what you need. Right now I’m cleaning house in major fashion and I’ve got boxes of 90-94 Legacy parts I could easily just donate and other items very cheap. I need space. In case you didn’t know this your car is the same nose as a 1990-91 but in 92-94 they change the lights etc. Folks refer to that as the “facelift” years. I have a very nice set of headlights for yours. Enjoy that 2.2
  22. Just picked up a 1990 Legacy Wagon L-Series from a local diesel tech school. Didn’t want it, didn’t need it, but it was an auction and I thought someone would outbid my lowball. So now it’s in an empty lot beside my house and before my HOA bitches about it I’ve got to get it running. Previously had an 00 Outback that I loved but we lost it to a deer strike on a backwoods highway in Florida. So I’m moving backwards, next I’ll get a B.R.A.T. or GL wagon then work my way down to a 360 but that’s a problem for future me.
  23. 88SubGL read the OP So I pulled the Brain box down for a look see and there doesn't look like there is any access to the rear of the dash console short of removing the steering column and a whole bunch of other stuff. Is there any other way in other than cutting a hole in the top of the dash.
  24. Hi all, I've been a member since forever and all that time I did mostly reading, but now I actually need some help with finding parts. I still have and drive my 87 XT Turbo and I've worn out the rear (inner) DOJs. The fronts are probably not far behind and the outer joints will also have the same mileage on them so not the youngest. I'd like to replace all 4 inner and outer joints (or perhaps complete axles) but cannot easily find the right parts in Europe. Since its a turbo car it has 25 splines on the FT4WD transmission and 23 splines on the stubs of the diff. If you remove the stubs there are internal 25 splines. Can I use EJ parts? Which ones? I can buy complete axles on ebay or Amazon but I have no idea of quality (probably spoob). Are there reputable axle resellers in the US I could contact? Thank you in advance and best regards, Joost from the Netherlands
  25. Hey guys, trying to figure out what’s up with the center/cyclops light on my 82 brat. It will open and turn on, but when I turn it off the light shuts off but the door won’t close. Is this a relay issue? If so, where do I get a new one? Thanks!
  26. Good suggestion - I'm ahead of you with the car cover and had it purchased the day I brought the donor home. It is now underneath said cover and I'll be turning it around to face the house so the missing hood isn't so apparent. I'm in full agreement that it's an eyesore, I'm just surprised at the quickness of the neighbor though perhaps I shouldn't be, our municipality provides a live app to report with now. Whether it is enough to satisfy the city, well, we will see. I suspect between the cover and having one of these in the shop at most times should be sufficient to keep everyone off my case long enough to cut what I need off the donor husk and send it to scrap. Regardless, I've got inflated roller tires on both vehicles and the cover on the donor now. Going to clear some space in the garage/shop to push things in and out so I can start fabricating. Picked up the final major piece to the puzzle for a while yesterday as well - a relatively fresh 5 speed cable transmission - the only major part the donor didn't have.
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