All Activity

Second to sunny side up, bacon is my favorite vegetable. It is tough sluethin' problems that others are in the midst of. Yeah, So I drove the car around, afterwards, later in the eve, no such events occurred.(that is because the Banshee went adrift) The next eve, while the Banshee was amidst, The evening was dark and I ran the lights, It was sooo cold, ten + miles and still the Banshee was afoot. Upon reaching the destination and still red lights blaring on the console, the car began not idling well. It was the heat under the hood while sitting, that finally warded off the Banshee. Car came to life, I put the heat on, let it run for awhile; parked. I will have to call around and see if I can get an ign. switch from a self serve yard. Be nice to put one in. she deserves it. I never used to let the car off the leash while the banshee was amidst. That day the car was driven away without me thinking about it. And that day, about ten miles later was when the car was hesitating.(due to the radio and heater drawing the bat.) So I guess if I was to throw some money somewhere, it would be an alternator at some point, just to make driving more pleasurable and convenient. Thanks all, Micky

Look for a 2001-2004 OB sedan or wagon without the limited or premium package, but has the cold weather package. Every OB I have owned in the 2001-2004 range had cloth heated seats, so they should be plentiful in most local salvage yards. I am not a fan of leather, so I only look for vehicles with cloth seats.

I thought a tightened idle screw meant leaner and loosening it meant richer?

Yes. When the idle mix screw is turned in, you richen the mixture. With vacuum leaks it leans out the mixture.

I would think so. Find the air leaks first then back that idle screw out appropriately. Good luck

I'll do that because I'm sure it's part of it, but could that cause it to run even with the idle mix screw tightened down all the way?

Probably lots of old vacuum hoses and even a small leak can make your idle rough. "To detect vacuum leaks in a carb car, the most common method is to use a carb cleaner or a similar spray around suspected leak areas while the engine is running; if the engine RPM changes noticeably when the spray is applied, it indicates a vacuum leak at that point."

Unfortunately, no I do not.

My 85 gl with the dcz carburetor idles like crap and I honestly can't figure it out. It'll still idle sometimes with the idle mix screw bottomed out etc and I'm honestly not experienced enough to figure it out

Ive scored 2 ea71 seized Brumby motors mainly for parts, managed to get 3 pistons out of one motor, positioned the 4th piston using much force to try get the gudgeon out, jammed a 4inch 12m dynabolt inside the gudgeon still wont move even using a big slide hammer. Is it possible to some how split the engine block some how with that seized piston locked in. l

No, but you might feel it slightly sometimes when reversing. I believe there’s something in the device that uses gravity to activate the hill holder. If facing down hill it won’t hold the brakes on - and it seems to only act on one part of the system. EG: brakes the front left and rear right or vice versa. Pretty sure it’s the FL and RR circuit that’s used. Cheers Bennie

One more question and this might be stupid, if I had the hill holder set up correctly would it activate whenever I push the clutch in? Like if I'm on the highway and I try to shift?

You’d be right in assuming that! As Moosen’s said, allow a bit of play - then test it out, you should have the hill holder let go just as the clutch takes up some bite. You don’t want the clutch to be fighting the hill holder (too tight). Test, adjust, test etc until you’re happy with how it behaves/feels when you use it. Looser is better than tighter - you’ll learn how to drive with how you adjust it. I disabled mine in my L series - had too many sketchy situations when reversing down steep hills I didn’t make it up. I just live without it and don’t really notice any difference really (my brumby didn’t get one so they’re basically the same to drive in that regard). Cheers Bennie

Self-serve yard and pull one. Pretty cheap! Go in and drill the bolts out. Put in standard bolts when you bolt it in.

Cross-referencing my parts order emails with the CTS part number, I don't think it has been replaced. I could have sworn I did replace it when I last did the HGs in '17 or '18, but I guess not. Added to my list for the next dealership parts order, thanks.

Do you have an FSM?

I think you're just looking for the electrical connector that plugs in to the male tang of the defrost strip on the window, correct? It's just a female spade connector, you could even use a generic off the shelf part. You could call iWire and ask if they have it, or search their website. I can send you a photo of it if you send me your email, but it looks like a pretty generic connector.

The orange oval o-ring is still available from Subaru, the metal part is not, so don't lose it!

Pretty sure there's a neutral switch on the transmission, if you wanted to use it. But yea, clutch switch is fine

2 years ago I was in Lake Placid NY overnight -30F Alternator screamed like a banshee in the morning. Went into local Autozone and clerk said to wait til noon when temps return to tolerable. Followed his advice and all was good after a late breakfast. Before jumping to conclusions, I suggest pancakes and bacon.

Yes, I thought taking it to the clutch switch as well, but the 88 Rx doesn't have a neutral switch, hence the question what to do with it????? Thx

That is a really good guess. The best price I got on one is, like 140. I have been starting it with a screw driver. (It has been downhill ever since, The key would not go back to the release position.Key would not come out of the cylinder) [I had to pop out the cylinder; (used it like this for a while) then the little shaft that the lock cylinder engages with became( discombobulated)]. (that too was removed, deeper and deeper I go, to spin the pup, and then it was always in lock position, so Had to unbolt it and zip tie it up. I guess I should break down and get a new switch. Just the idea of coughing up the dough for it.(sorta angers me). Suggestions? thanks, Mcky

No I was just wondering if anyone knew how to adjust it properly because I assumed doing it on a hill is the wrong way

Set the clutch and allow 1/8” play to the hill holder engagement is how I recall that adjustment. But it’s been about a decade since I’ve owned one. If nobody else chimes in I’ll look it up in the manual. Or did you lose the nuts at the threaded end?

Coolant Temperature Sensor been changed?