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I have a service manual with wiring diagrams. I'll post photos later tonight after work. It's an '89 service manual so wire colors and connector colors may vary but terminal positions should be the same, your mileage may vary so it wouldn't hurt to confirm continuity between terminals with a multimeter. :]

Was the torque converter properly seated before the engine was refitted? Cheers Bennie

as a test you can just skip it all together and short the connector pins together. the compressor should kick on. its function is pretty basic, too high or too low pressure it'll switch off. it'll short the pins when the pressure is nominal.

And a major milestone has come to pass. The Brat touched back down on all four tires for a brief time here this afternoon, and the stock Impreza wheels really fill those wheel wells up nicely. I've left out images of the tacked in brackets because they're A) extremely ugly albeit functional, and B ) not particularly different from where they sit in the mockup. After having completed this milestone I will say for those following in my footsteps - getting these brackets to site evenly and where I want them was very tedious to do by myself, on the ground, in the sun, in my driveway. They also need about a quarter inch spacer installed underneath them to allow the vertical edge of the upper bracket to get good contact for welding to the frame. I'll be welding a chunky fender washer or fabricating a spacer to thicken the base of the bracket to accomplish this. Installation of the bracket sets would have been much, much easier if I'd had a lift to use or removed the engine first (or ideally both.), neither of which I have or did. Egg on my face there. I'll get some more images of the engine bay and bracketry once I've put this thing back up on the stands to pull the engine and subframe. Next up is getting these welded in completely, boxing the frame rails back in, and modifying the subframe to accept the impreza power steering, as stated in earlier posts.

would you shrare it with us i too have EA82T 1987 model whose wirining needs to be redone.thanks

Of course, anything mechanical needs to be addressed, however "Lucas" transmission treatment is quite good. Check the fluid, etc.. I did a change and filter replacement last year.

Well, It's been a couple more weeks, and I have a couple more updates! I had to go through a few design iterations of the brackets in order to get them even made. I'd hoped to design a version that was one piece, however due to some equipment limitations I had to go with a two-part construction. However, this appears be a more convenient method when it comes to installation, at least at the outset, and since i sprung for some chromoly steel I expect this to be adequate in terms of strength, though I may go back and add some gusseting later - I'll have to report back when I've actually got the parts permanently attached to the truck. Enough blathering, though - let's get to the actual part and placement photos! The first image is of the bracket set as received. Pretty damn close as a first fitup, but in the second image you'll see I ran into a few interference issues. The 90 degree bend on what i'm calling the "lower" bracket needed to be rebent to place it about 3/8" lower than the 45 degree bend, and the rearmost flange on what I'm calling the "upper" bracket bumped into the floorboard by about the same amount. This is true on both sides, so at least I'm consistent. I've adjusted the design files to match these changes, but for my purposes I was able to make these changes here without completely recutting the brackets. These adjustments can be noted on the third image, as well as the fact that I've also welded captive nuts onto the assemblies. Usually I'd just let the fixation carry me through and I'd actually have these installed at this point but I had some prior obligations that forced me to leave the final weldup to another day. The plan there is to clean the mating surfaces to be welded of paint and gunk, bolt the brackets to the pivot then use my floor jack to push them into place so I can tack them up. Not the most precise of motorsport fixturing and fabrication, but for this build it will have to do. Also, the way I see it these factory bushing housings have some room for slop in the way of slots for the bolts, so I have some pretty significant leeway when it comes to placing them as long as I'm even on both sides. More updates to follow soon when I have the front end on the ground (briefly) before I move onto fabrication for the steering gear and have to take it all back apart. 😅

Yep. It slows the oil from draining down, so everything is oilier on startup.

I would be tempted to to try a thicker grade of oil (but still within the recommended range).

Which Lucas stuff are you talking about? The stabilizer?

Have you put gauges on the system?

thankyou im not very computer literate i did do tests with my multimeter ohms and continuity checked the switch the compressor fuses relays and the only thing i didnt get a reading on was the switch so i decided start with it considering they are fairly cheap

Yeah there are a lot out this way, I just haven’t noticed any lately. I don’t have any social media like fb or instagram. Thanks gor the part number

Yeah I had seen they burn oil so I changed it right after I bought it. I've put maybe 500 miles on it so I'll take a look. This is the first car I've ever owned where the freaking oil filter is on top. It's an odd car but I dig it so far.

Oh man you’re out in Oregon. I’m way out East. You guys have lots more out there. Shipping would bite. And 72-79 sedan or wagon or Brat will have the exact same front windshield. Only the Coupe and Hardtop are different. PRP carries the gasket. Part number WCR-288

it's likely fine, the timing chain tensioner can get sticky, but doesn't fail catastrophically like the timing belt tensioners. those years had the oil consumption issues due to low tension rings from the factory. probably check if your model year is affected and keep an eye on oil levels between changes

A bottle of Lucas can help with startup noises, although I haven't tried it on that exact engine.

Yeah seems to sound and run. I was wondering about the tensioner as I've heard it can be an issue with this engine. If I let it run for a few minutes until it's warm then turn it off and restart it, no sound at all.

oil filter up top is an fb engine, timing chain. they're noisy on startup until the tensioner fills with oil. no need to replace if it doesnt sound bad when warmed up

Just picked up a 2014 Impreza on the cheap and after the initial crank for about two seconds, the engine is pretty loud. I have maintenance records and the previous owner was pretty good. 98k miles and I'm aware that the next project will be the timing belt. Video with the sound attached. VID_20250327_130510393(1)(1)(1)(1).mp4

Looking for a windshield 79 wagon 4wd windshield

I had a 97 Legacy GT Wagon, a long while back. 2.2 in that one. Gave it to daughter cause she needed another car. With the reminder to keep it full of coolant and oil. Did neither, blew the head gaskets........... As far as this Outback, my current 2008 with 180,000 miles needs head gaskets due to external coolant leak. So if I am pulling engine, might as well fix the one I have.

And for the smart folks who will look here instead of FB the hose has TWO different diameters at each end. That’s not just a straight hose.

Have to see if there’s a split in the hose etc That’s why I posted the info about the hose fitting all wagons and Brats. That’ll at least give you a better shot at finding a decent boneyard donor. Otherwise I’m no so sure what I would do to repair the hose. All comes down to what the fuel will do corrosively to the repair substance. Replace with boneyard hose is my first choice. Given that I have two 1970s wagons I need to retain my extra.

If it's 5 years old, it's probably just time for a new battery, as long as it's reading >14V with the engine running, showing the alternator is good. You can try using a non-automatic charger - one with no blinky lights or any intelligence - to un-sulfate it, by disconnecting the battery from the car and leaving it on the charger for several days. You want the car disconnected because you're trying to intentionally overcharge the battery, and don't want the car seeing high voltage. An automatic charger won't work. Has to be one that's just a transformer, rectifier, and meter.