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I fixed the problem. Just me being a boob. I switched the fuses for the main fan and tested the butt ends of the fuses for the "heater" fuses, 2, both 15 amp, only the butt ends of the fuses are gonna show continuity no matter what, because that's not where the fuse blows. Rookie mistake. What got me was the diagram, it said that the fuses were 15 amp but I had only swapped the 20 amp ones to the MAIN FAN, not the blower motor, which has two fuses, both 15, and is labeled "heater" which to me is confusing but we got it in the end

1997 Impreza Outback Sport Issue: No power to Blower motor Things I have replaced in system already: Blower motor, Blower motor Resistor, *Climate control module (to see if the fan switch (actuator) was broken)), Blower Motor Plug (Then I realized could have just checked it first with a multimeter), Blower motor fuses. I bench tested the blower motor relay (which was very difficult to get to), and it clicks, shows continuity and voltage when powered, have a replacement on the way just in case. I have checked every fuse, every relay, the next step I suppose would be to make sure that the system is grounded properly and that no wires are damaged, not sure how to do that. What I know: No power is reaching the BM plug, BM relay clicks when I switch fan from "OFF" to "1" which also means power must be reaching the CCM, Bench tested BM, BM relay, Fuses-all either tested functional or were replaced anyway (BM relay will be replaced at the end of this week but it bench tested functional so I do not think that is the problem). My Assets: A small tool box, a multimeter, 30Amp wire spools, butt connectors and heat shrink, YouTube My questions are: How do I go about finding the wiring issue i.e. ground is poorly connected, or wire is damaged, or should I simply snip the lines from the BM relay to the BM and replace them, and how would I do that, (obviously I need replacement wire and to make sure the old wires are sealed off properly, but how do I make sure that I don't mess the system up, and that I can trust the wiring diagram I found to be enough information for me to connect a power and ground wire to the BM plug so it'll get power. *I replaced this with a used part, so maybe I got unlucky and got a bad fan actuator twice? should I buy a new actuator for the CCM? Is there a way to test if the actuator I have is good? NOTE: The blower motor was making loud noises (like a bad bearing), but had power from 1-4 one day, the next day I only had power to 4 (bad resistor) and then one day I left my car to warm up with the fan on full blast and when I came back it had ceased to work entirely. I have scoured the forums for BM issues which has been helpful, but none have led me to a solution in my case. Attached is the wiring diagram that I am going off of, advice about what my next steps should be are greatly appreciated. Blower motor wiring diagram.svg

B and I got the dash back in the Impreza and everything seems to work - speedo, clutch/brake/neutral switches to cancel cruise, clock, delayed power shutoff for family band radio and a couple cig lighter outlets, etc. One of the speakers was making a ton of noise so B pulled it out and glued/clamped the paper back down to the metal ring and it's much better. HVAC fan intermittently stops, usually playing with the switch will get it going again. Got the material and drawing to local fab guy to make fuel tank. It was stalling occasionally when coming to a stop and disengaging the clutch. The idle control derivative gain had been zero percent, bumping that up to 2% seemed to fix the problem. 5-10% makes the idle hunt. Did some work on B's blue Forester. The RF knuckle wasn't really clamping the ball joint perfectly anymore so I replaced that with a new one he got from Dorman / Rockauto. Also replaced the front control arm bushing while things were apart. The Whiteline bushings apparently don't fit our fabricated arms perfectly but I made them work. B welded up a bunch of cracks/rust holes in his exhaust. A penny on the inside of the flange while welding on the outside made this job much easier. While he was at it he did some rust/rock repair with angle iron on his gas tank guard. Far from perfect but much better than before. We also cleared some room for the black Outback part out. In related news, the RR axle has popped out of the rear diff on the white Outback twice in the last month or so. Clips back in fairly easily but disconcerting. Anyone know of a good fix for this? I haven't even been able to successfully install snaprings in those spider gears without making them too small for the axle to snap into. Need to see if I can get slightly longer axles or maybe space it farther inboard.

It's a80 and brown has the roll bar. That's why I bought it for the silver one. Last thing done to silver was webber. There's the headlights.

That brown one pulls my heart strings. That was my first brat , same color, stripe, high SnugTop, front bar, and I’m sure there’s a high roll bar and rear seats, right? Have to really crawl around to get a fair assessment. Is the silver one an 80 with the second small blue air filter/breather ? Or an 81 with an 1800 and dual range? Does that one have quad headlights like the brown one?

Thank you, sir. I appreciate it.

My Brats are in Denver. Let me know of any interest Shawn was the last to work on 1980. It's been sitting for 15 years sense put in storage. Any help on what they are worth today.

Make sure the cam sensor is not covered in muck. O.

Nope. You’re all good. One cam is operating valves when you line up the timing belt. The pistons are half way up the cylinders so valves etc can’t hit. Cheers Bennie

Yes, dual range 5 speed. I've found a few about 4 hours away. I have two already. One is scattered and the other was in the process of being torn down by the last owner with no recollection of why he was doing it. I've looked at a couple different manuals, but I don't know which bolts go where or the other specs of the parts that have been removed. The internet is a big lace, so I'm confident I'll get it going.

I'll keep this short. It's a long story. Suffice to say I did not do this damage. The car bottomed out. The transmission pan was dented. After that it did not shift while in drive. I think it's stuck in second or third. Reverse works fine. I took off the pan, banged out the dent then crawled back underneath and stared at all the solenoids in there. I checked a couple sources online and that was of no help. So I put the pan back on, put fresh transmission fluid in it but unfortunately there is no change. I'm hoping that someone here knows which of the half dozen or so solenoids is the one that controls shifting. It will not be cost effective to just replace them all. Thanks.

Do you have emissions inspection’s where you live and if so, does it include a visual inspection? My thought is, take it and get it inspected, because it’s old enough that the kid doing the inspection is not going to know what to look for on a car that old anyway. What’s the worst they can do, fail the inspection and then you can worry about it.

I had all the cam and crankshaft marks lined up during the install of a timing belt when the driver's side cam moved several teeth (2 inches) counter-clockwise. The belt was tighter than I was expecting and I must have pushed or pulled a bit too much. Anyway, it moved quick, like it was spring loaded. I'm not sure if the next thing I did was smart or not. I put a wrench on the cam bolt and attempted to move it back so the marks lined up. I was almost at the mark when the cam then jumped 2 inches the other way (clockwise). I put a wrench back on it and was able to get the marks to line up again. Did I just screw up by moving the cam independently of the crankshaft and other cam? Did moving it in both clockwise and counter-clockwise cause some damage? Not sure if I'm in a jam or not.

Dual range five speed ? all time favorite None in any yards out west ? https://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm

About three years ago or so I had a 2000 Legacy donor and used that engine in our 2003. Take a minute and check the archives. It’s not a big deal. Good luck.

I believe welding supply stores sell liquid nitrogen but you may need a dewar flask or a specific container, some places are picky and may not let you use any old yeti cup. I know for a fact welding supply stores sell dry ice though and it's cheap. Just bring a cooler.

Please review the posts that you stated you read, " I read several times you can plumb the EGR tube into the IAC hose". It's basically: Run the EGR hard line/pipe into the IAC's hose or the Intake. And plug the HEAD's EGR port. Edit: Bottom end? I'm not sure what that is - except on traditional 4 cylinders the head is above the block /bottom end. On this forum it's usually 'short block' and 'long block'. Long block includes the cylinder heads; the short block does not. If you only replaced the Short block and re-used your heads, then the EGR port is still there as it's in the heads - not the block. But my guess is you meant Long block which includes the heads.

I'll give that liquid nitrogen a try IF I can find place to buy it. Maybe last resort freezing water .

Totally shooting from the hip here, these are all ideas and I've never done any of these methods. 1. Maybe you could fill the piston from the bottom (use it as a bowl) and fill it with dry ice or liquid nitrogen. Maybe you could get the piston cold enough to get it to shrink and you could use your timber+hammer method to remove it then. You may have a temperature transfer to the cylinder walls so this may not work. But the sleeves and piston should contract at different rates. 2. Pour water into the cylinder all the way to the top. Reinstall the head (maybe add some cheap RTV or the like) and stick the block half with the head on into the freezer. Maybe the hydraulic pressure from the water freezing could remove the piston. Or you'll end up cracking the block or head so best use a head that is already too far gone.

My intake has the threaded opening for the EGR tube, but the head doesn't. Right now, the EGR tube hole in the intake is plugged with an extra oil drain plug.

I seem to be getting a lot of ea81 seized engines of late, always just the one piston that is totally jammed hard. I find it always impossible to get the Gudgeon pin out of the seized piston, meaning I have to split the motor and try unbolt the connecting rod to the seized piston, and then try to drive the seized piston out with a piece of timber and a big hammer,- sometimes works. If the piston is totally Seized nothing Im using seems to work has anyone out there got any ideas.

'90 and '91 5-speeds used the metal MAF - like the '91-'94 EJ22T(urbos). '90-'94 Automatics and all '95-'98 (and '99 EJ25D) EJ Subarus used the same green label plastic JECS/AUTECS MAFs - only dif is whether they're Japan or USA-made. So, yeah - limited availability on your year. I'd check w/the used auto parts yards for one, too. And try Car-part.com. Lastly and this may not be a viable option, but do some research on swapping the ECU/ECM to a '92-'94 Legacy as the 5speed and Automatics used the same MAF. Per this pinout diagram the only diff is the 'barometric pressure sensor': https://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/ecupins/ But, IIRC, the IAC and injectors were also different on the '90-'91 model. But may still work w/the newer ECU? Just a (bad?) thought. For more old Legacy info check here: https://bbs.legacycentral.org/

How much time/miles on the new struts, etc.? There is a settling period when you replace struts and springs. 2" does sound like a lot, but if your rears are sagging a bit due to age it'll magnify the front 'lift'. Verify the p/n on the strut? I confirmed those are the right KYB's per RA's site. Aftermarket axles are also 'suspect' - but if you bought OEM then I'd consider that a non-issue.

I've not done this on the Phase 2 - '99+ engines - but if you can find a hose that is not directly carrying oil vapor it should work, in theory. If you use the PCV or breather tubes, my guess is you'll get (blue - oil) smoke out the exhaust like I did on my '96 when I did the workaround you're referring to (and I wrote up 🙂 ). But that may not matter for inspection - they don't care if it smokes, as long as there are no codes, correct? Found this other workaround: lmdew Posted October 25, 2016 This is what I did. Ran fine, no codes.

I did it. I bought a 1986 GL Wagon as my first ever Subaru. It already has a few modifications such as a lift, 5 lug adapters, larger wheels/tires and BMW headlights that I will be keeping. I need to rework the DIY fender flares that it has. I'm looking for a replacement manual transmission for this year as the one I have is in pieces. I would like to put the original one back together so feel free to point me in the right direction for a build/repair manual. Thanks!