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Hello everyone, So I have a 95 Impreza LX wagon 2.2 with a phase 1 transmission. Just about every article I have read on pulling transmission codes via the "handshake method" doesn't work, nor do I think it applies to phase 1 transmissions but phase II and later. But feel free to correct me if I'm wrong about this. My Impreza recently had torque bind. I replaced the duty c solenoid thinking that was the problem. And if it wasn't the problem, oh well, I'd probably have to replace it sooner or later anyway. But the torque bind is still there and has gotten worse. It even makes a loud groaning noise when making sharp turns. I have the FWD fuse in, but no difference. I also have the 16 flashes of the A/T temp light on start up. I know there's an issue, but I just can't pull the codes. I have read a few threads and articles online about finding a connector and grounding out pin #5 to make the TCU flash the A/T temp light to retrieve the codes. What's frustrating is that I don't know if the connector referenced is the connector under the dash or the connector that plugs into the TCU module itself? If under the dash, maybe someone can direct me to exactly where it's located or even post a picture. I have looked already. If it's the TCU itself, I'm not even sure where that's located. The connector in question is referred to as the B82 connector. One article says it's under the dash another says is on transmission. I don't see it in either place. Thanks for your help in this. Mike

Outback lights have that black outline and Legacy does not. Are they a straight exchange or is there any added piece etc I’m not aware of? This is our first Outback and we have had it still have three Legacys and a couple parts cars came and went too. All Legacy. I prefer the Legacy headlights. And I have a few as you can imagine from the parts cars.

Yes i replace them as well ecm is not throwing any codes iether and i just check all the relays and they seem fine

What about the fusible links? Are they good?

Ahhh, I see. I'm mechanically-minded so electronics isn't my forte but I can wrap my head around it. Thank you for the explanation I didn't realize RPM correlated with current. I'll be installing a '90 Loyale radio/cassette deck and removing my rear speakers in hopes to mitigate the whine *it's annoying*. Stock radio is 10 or 15W and my aftermarket was 50W. Also makes sense. Thanks again. :]

About a month ago i was filling the coolant and pulled the cap after a few heat cycles and it shot coolant all over the battery and main connectors and distributor, it ran rough but would start then after a little bit it wouldnt start...i could hear the fuel pump kick on and off priming the system and very rarely it would start then i decided to clean every connection and grounds, but after all that i have no fuel pump surge or spark or fuel and i have no idea where to start other then the fuzes and grounds and all fuzes and grounds are good....any help would be greatly apreciated

Thank you

thats a very good idea i do have a wide variety of bolts i will attempt this

Thanks for the input, I appreciate it. You cleared a few things up for me. First, I know for sure the blue/red to blue/red is right. Second, the reason the wires on the aftermarket thermoswitch are both black is because they can't really be mixed up. Finally, if I jumper the two wires I have connected from the harness to the thermoswitch on the harness side, the fan should come on if the rest is connected right. I just don't want to short anything out if they aren't right! I know this diagram is easy, but the thing throwing me off is the fact that there is a yellow/white wire to a fan relay for an AC car. I say this because I just cut all of the ends off without labeling them, so I was thinking maybe I'm working with two yellow and whites because one shouldn't be there in my case. Wiring harnesses aren't specific, as I have connectors all over for AC and stuff like that aren't being used. The blue/red to blue/red and black to black are easy, it's the two yellow/whites out of the harness that are throwing me off because I don't see where connector F24 and F23 go to. Thanks!

72-79 cars except Coupe and Hardtop and 1977-81 Brat. https://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm This past summer I scored three vintage front windshields at one location in Massachusetts. Good luck.

Ok, so you have charged the system, and the switch still does not turn on even with pressures (high and low, since the compressor is off) over 30psi? It could be 3/8-24 thread. Grab a random bolt/nut and compare...

Battery voltage fluctuating with the turn signals is normal. The two 1156 bulbs draw about 5A when hot (~27W each), and at least double that cold, i.e. every time they blink on. The stock alternator is 55 or 60A iirc. You're pulling surges of a quarter of its high-rpm rating, and you're at idle (since you can hear the fuel pump) where it can barely keep up with the loads anyway. And when the voltage dips, the fuel pump slows down. A spark when connecting the battery is also 100% normal, and does not imply anything wrong, modified or otherwise. You're charging the capacitors in every electronic module, including the radio, ECU, fuel pump controller (I can't remember if that year has one or not), cruise control module, etc etc.

I've had several pumps in my 87 DL wagon in the last two years and they all begin to whine and moan after a few months but only when they get warm. The whine pulses up and down when the turn signals are on or when any change is made to the loading on the battery. The pumps all work great at first and are pretty quiet but eventually I begin to hear them after a long drive home from work. I just figure it is cheap pumps that quickly lose the gearing tolerance after a few thousand miles.

The only thing critical is that the blue/red wire on the fan sees positive voltage and that the yellow/white gets a ground that comes from the thermo snap switch. The wires on the thermo snap switch could get swapped but is doesn't matter since all it is doing is supplying the ground connection for the fan whenever the coolant is hot enough. When the key is on and the engine either hot or cold, you should always read +12 volts on one wire going to the snap switch connector. The other wire will be grounded to the chassis. When the coolant is hot enough, the snap switch closes and the fan is connected to ground and turns on. You could have the wires on the snap switch reversed and it would not matter. To test the fan, temporarily jumper across the connector at the snap switch with a paper clip (ignition key in the run position) and the fan should turn on. That tells you if the fan is okay. To test the snap switch, you will need to get it hot enough to trigger it. If you can take it out easily, connect it to a VOM and heat it in a pan of boiling water to see if the contacts go from open to closed.

Glad your fans finally kicked in; our unsung heroes to keep engines within acceptable temp. range. Of course there are short term fixes when the engine is getting too hot such as having the heater on full blast, anti-freezes and mixes with different properties, etc..

i think i will give this a try i ordered one for a 2001 forrester plug was the same but the tread was a m12 i belive mine is a m10

i have it holds vaccum

Hi All, So I'm trying to verify what should be a real simple wiring hookup for my '88 DL with no air cond.- the radiator fan, and the thermoswitch. Long story short, my Rad fan connector got hot and melted due to corrosion, and I had to redo all the ends with spade connectors. This obviously meant I had to cut the other wires and redo them with spades too. I was dumb enough to not label the wires 🤨. I'm going by this diagram- the wiring colors seem to be the same except for the thermoswitch, which for some reason shows a black and yellow wire where I have two black wires. I have my stuff connected: Blue/Red from Harness to Blue/Red on Fan Black Thermoswitch to Black Harness Black Thermoswitch to Yellow/White Harness Yellow/White Fan to Yellow/White Harness The diagram shows the male connectors, but not the female off the harness, which leaves me wondering if I mixed up one or two. My car runs midpoint and slightly under on the gauge, and I don't hear the fan coming on. I know the fan works. I jumpered it to verify a short time BEFORE the wire connector changes. Not sure which of the connectors I'd do that with anymore! Any input to verify my wiring would be much appreciated!

Lot of manuals...LOTS! https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/

Hello, I live in Oregon. Looking for a windshield in the northwest. I believe 72-79 possibly 80 will fit please correct me if I’m wrong. Thanks!

Welcome ! Once upon a time I was going to be a mechanical engineer. Enjoy the Board. It’s one of the more pleasant stops among any car forum I’m aware of. Plenty of folks from the outside world have appreciated this Board and its classy moderation during its heyday. Hey speaking of 79 I own and often drive a 79. 4WD wagon cheers! What kind of stuff did you and your dad have for wheels in your lifetimes ? Funny story - going through our parents stuff my mom kept every car’s paperwork from a 1949 Dodge, 52 Hillman,etc right up to the current Honda I’ve taken possession of. Enjoy!

I haven't worked on one of those, but the most common cause of such problems is bad wiring between the body and the door where it flexes, followed by burnt out speakers. Does opening and closing the door, or wiggling the bundle of wires to the door, make it go on and off? Does thwapping the door over the speaker make it go on and off? Does poking something through the grille and pushing on the speaker cone make it go on and off? If it's not the door flex wiring or the speaker, then look into the radio itself and the rest of the harness wiring.

The driver's side door speaker on my 14 Impreza seems to work only when it wants to. Today after a couple of seconds of running in park, the dead speaker started working again. Two minutes later it crapped out again. Is there a way to factory reset the (non touchscreen) stock stereo to see if that's the issue? Am I going to have to take the door panel off to check the connection? Is this a common issue?

Pretty good handle on theory and application of Lubrication as I was a Maintenance Supervisor of a Power Plant. Always my favorite subject. Started wrenching with Dad at the age of 14 (I'm 79). Looks like a great forum