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Those are ground wires, specifically for plugging into that diagnostic connector. Insert one into pin 5.

Plug failure within a year caused me unending problems which caused me to change out everything else that I thought could be the cause of sputtering and misfiring. I didn't realize it could be the NGK plugs I put in. Forester is running as well as ever; I put on a couple Cooper tires yesterday that I got from the local junkyard for $50 on the rim each nicely mounted and balanced already.

NGK copper core is all you need. Subaru or NGK plug wires.

I'd have to check my order, probably Amazon. I know Home Depot got in trouble as they played games with customers selling DeWalt and other name brand equipment that were either seconds or knock offs.

Were those NGK’s from Amazon? If so, they may not be genuine NGK’s.

Auto has EGR, manual doesn't, iirc. Or maybe it was starting in 1996 so the 95 doesn't... don't remember exactly when. But some stuff switched between auto and manual, and between obd1 and obd2.

No photographic updates, but some work was done today and I figured I owed some proof of life. Still need to get the engine back out of the brat to get the bracketry welded in, the frame rails boxed in again, the crossmember modified some more, and a few more odds and ends, but I put that on pause slightly so that I can move towards reclaiming my shop space from the "donormobile." I've been working for a few months now around that Impreza shell and its welcome in my workspace has been worn pretty thin. Today I rolled the impreza chassis out and started prepping it for chopping and removal of all the remaining driveline components that i still need. That ended up being just disconnecting brake lines and the sway bar, along with removing and tossing the old ratty carpet and disconnecting the parking brake cables from the handle in the cabin. I've measured out the rough length of the section of Impreza trans tunnel that I'll need, but I'll probably be just taking the entirety of it and then trimming to size. Same goes for the rear suspension mounts and towers, but i suspect I might end up fabricating more of that than I might otherwise expect. I also did a quick on-the-ground measurement comparison of the width of the wheelbases between the Brat and the Impreza. from outer edge to outer edge of the rear tires, the brat sits at about 56.5", and the Impreza at 65.5", meaning I'll need to either modify the impreza rear diff crossmember and strut towers by removing about 9" of overall width to get the stock suspension control arms to be able to drop in place, or fabricate my own mounts & crossmember to add to the one on the Brat already. I am not 100% sure which will be the simpler of the two options, or if a third path might present itself, but the way I see it most of my progress on this build has been by just getting started and solving one problem at a time. Eventually I should run out of problems and it'll work, right? Speaking of other problems to solve - it seems that on my last post I've hit my max limit on uploadable files for the forum, so unless somehow I can get that 10MB cap lifted, I'm going to start linking photos as links in either a Drive link or another photo repository. Not a huge fan of that option - might also go back and reupload my images in a more compressed format so they can be hosted natively. Can't tell you how many photobucket albums and images I wish still existed - I'd hate to have that happen here. If anyone has any insight to keep more image files hosted by the forum directly, I'd love to hear from you.

We put a new belt, sprockets, water pump and so on onto the '95 right after we towed it home, and toward the end noticed that the keyway on the crank nose was damaged, and the crank sprocket had been jb welded in place. We think it was glued on a little bit out of time, and the engine won't start. Gave it a whiff of starting fluid and one cylinder fired while we cranked...looks like this engine is done. We'll pull the engine from the '96 this week, probably, and swap over the new belt, etc and the flex plate from the '95. The timing kit is the same for both engines, per the kit instructions. You say to swap the intake? Why is that?

I put in the recommended NGK plugs a year and a half ago or so; already worn out after 25K miles or less. I kept the Denso Iridiums I had before and the misfiring and sputtering stopped. Forester is running well now.

Ok thanks man. So am I taking one of those to a ground or to pin 5 in B58?

I made a walkaround video of the black Outback and recently revised it with some suggestions from slammo. It's currently unlisted, I'd appreciate some feedback on it before I make it public. Too long, too short, additions, subtractions, thumbnail choice, etc?

Just swap over the intake and accessories from the old engine onto the new engine, and it'll work great. I think the timing stuff is the same, but I can't remember for sure, so you could be safe and swap the sprockets from the old engine to the new engine, since you might as well put on a timing belt, tensioner, water pump kit while you have the engine out, just to avoid having the engine out again any time soon.

We have a '95 Legacy with automatic transmission and a damaged engine, and a '96 with a strong engine and problems with the manual transmission. The '95 has a great body and it makes sense to swap the engine over to it. Obviously we need to replace the flywheel with the '95's flex plate. Will that mess up the engine balance? What other problems are we going to have?

Hey sorry for the late reply, had issues logging into my account. They are Crosswind M/T that were on sale for $90 per. I can't imagine they will be great, but they are fine for this summer hitting some trails. I really wasn't sure what the final tire size would be, with gearing and clearance, so I went cheap for the first set.

Thanks Guys .

I’ve got rear discs on both my Brumby and L series without changing the standard system other than braided brake lines. The brumby is by far the vehicle with the best brakes now! The L series needs new rotors or pads after sitting around for a few years, plus it runs 27 inch diametre tyres so that takes some of the punch out of the brakes. If you’re running the old rubber hoses I highly recommend replacing them at the very least with new rubber hoses. Best upgrade is the braided. I had a kit for the brumby from an ADR approved kit from eBay that’s did all the stock hoses then the flexible line to the rear caliper made up and a local brake and clutch specialist for finish off they complete system. The important thing is that your fronts lock up before the rear. If you’re locking the rear up before the front I’d recommend overhauling the front brakes then looking into the front/rear brake bias if the issue persists. It’s down right dangerous to have the rear brakes lock up before the front. Cheers Bennie

No worries. Better to ask! Either wire is fine. You are just providing a ground to the computer to tell it to send the codes.

I did the disc brake swap on one of my wagons, and it works perfectly with the stock master cylinder and booster, easily able to lock all four wheels. I'm guessing the problem is you can't lock the rear wheels? Is the pedal firm or spongy? If spongy at all, bleed them again, should be very solid with the disc brakes. Other problems could be bad hoses (they sometimes swell shut with age), corroded hillholder, or bad calipers. Do you get good flow from the bleeders when bleeding then rears?

You can remove the auxiliary fan to improve the air flow around the engine, and install a lower temperature thermostat that opens up sooner. You can also drill some holes in your thermostat to increase the coolant flow and lower the engine temperatures that way. In the winter, you would want to put the standard thermostat back in. Few air conditioners still work.

i did i pulled vacuum for 1.5 hrs blows ice cold now except it has a tiny leak which i suspect is in the schrader valve considering it did hold vacuum again with the valves open this time so i purchased a uv light and some dye today and am going to recharge it again after it gets low

I put rear Disc brakes on my Brumby but I don't think the current Master Cylinder, or Servo unit are 100% up to the task when it comes to hard on emergency braking. Anyone out there who has any info on an upgrade. Sometime back I got a Servo off a Suby Outlook, but couldnt get the Servo unit past the inner Strut towers. i

And even easier if the OP is going to remove the heads. @4wdHonky- if you have a bottom end bearing issue you could swap the NA block in for the turbo one AND swap the turbo pistons in at the same time. The bottom ends are all the same, just the pistons are different for lower compression partly due to lower grade fuels and crappy tuning in the 80’s and partly for boost being applied. Personally I’d try to keep the stock turbo engine running as it is if there aren’t any other issues other than the spark plug hole. Cheers Bennie

Thanks guys. I was able to get the FSM for the 95 Impreza and into the diagnostics section. You are correct. The connector is the B58, and it seems that the two pigtail wires are B57. I am going to look tomorrow. Can you please tell me what I'm supposed to do exactly when I find this? Looking at what Numbchux wrote, am I supposed to take one of the wires from B57 and connect it to pin 5 in B58? Does is matter which one of the 2 wires in B57? Sorry for being so ignorant here.

Repairing a stripped spark plug hole is a much smaller project than the other options... I haven't tried, but I've seen people do it in the vehicle and just blow the chips out afterwards.