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I don't intend to do the transmission work myself. I have a FSM so I know the steps, but reading through it, it seems like a nightmare. The main thing I worry about is these vehicles haven't been in my area for nearly 20 years so finding shops/technicians with experience with these older Subarus is difficult. Between the positions of the shift linkages, the very specific steps needed to remove the transfer case, and all the ball bearing detents and springs just waiting to go flying I'm reluctant to send the transmission to a shop and trust it'll be reassembled properly. Even if I give them my hardcopy of the FSM. Right now my trans is just sitting on my garage floor, I've been at a bit of a loss on what to do. I have a spare D/R trans but I don't have a history on it so I'm reluctant to just throw it in and send it.

Hello Everyone I'm new and happy to be here. So I stripped the bolt holes torquing down my tensioner on my 97 legacy to 20 ft/lb(the one where the piston is separate from the pulley). Later I found out that the top end of the torque specs are 19.5... silly me. Im trying to figure out the bolt size to match up with a helicoil. I believe the part number for the bolt is 010508220, but cant find the size specs. Does anyone know? PS - I also just ordered the bracket it attaches to in case the helicoil fails... Thanks everyone, Loop

If you have a 2000 or later Subaru you can find "loaded" knuckle assemblies for your car. That means the knuckle, new bearings new hubs, new seals all ready to install. HOWEVER, I can not find anybody who sells them for a 99 Subaru Legacy. I have a wagon, although that shouldn't make any difference. I dread dealing with the bearings and with the rusty knuckle. Maybe there's somebody doing it as a side business?

That is only true in a narrow range of ambient temperatures. For you to have read 65 PSI (assuming there was at least enough gas in the system to reach the saturation point) I'm guessing it was about 66F outside at the time you measured the inactive system pressure. You can find online gas/temp charts that show the relationship and values. Adding gas the way you did is a great way to sneak up on the proper fill if you don't know how much was in the system to begin with but don't be temped to "add just a little more". The compressor will cycle on and off for three reasons. Low gas charge, evaporator coil too cold or system overcharge. A compressor cycling because the evap coil temp is too low is the only time it is acceptable to routinely cycle. Cycling due to a low charge is not good because the refrigerant also carries the lubrication oil that the pump needs and an overcharge will wear out your pump and blow hoses. I fill my systems by monitoring the evap coil return line temperature too. When I know I am close to the proper fill, I watch the temp of the fat line leaving the evap coil. You put in a little gas and watch to see if the outlet line drops a few degrees accordingly. You do that a few times as long as the temps keep dropping a little each time. Once you add a little gas and the temp stops dropping, you know you have reached the point that the evap coil cannot boil off any further addition of refrigerant. It's a more nerdy way to do it but I'm in the SW desert and I need my cooling when it is 110 outside. I daily drive my 87 to work each day and driving home in the afternoon on the freeway really loads the system. Your low 30, high 150 readings sound about right for a properly charged system on a day that was in the 70's but you don't mention the ambient temps on the day you did the work. Sounds like you have it dialed in pretty well. Speaking of R134a, a local farm store had 16oz cans of R134 for $5 a can this weekend. I stocked up for sure.

The VT commodore had a vacuum actuated tap from memory. That might work ok. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/401549783595?_skw=corvette+heater+tap&itmmeta=01JV1WVEBGSPBTEP9B9113TB8G&hash=item5d7e3b722b:g:OnkAAeSwpRRoGwiv&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eJINj5jgQt19ervaLpB6mTJVlbBUu4vglR9vmIgxvxhRqvEnQJ9doxy%2BZktYtxQqsZbJrKIht9otsWH84id9755%2BIn4cypkZl27%2FKDjPv%2BOsNEZ56AEsLRJhfG4c2ur2ajr7zjHFcU5JxN%2FWNrtoG2K1ptrcQU37fJiCbGw0K2Fo8C6CPpRgnrpt0Z5HDKMS%2FsRHx7x2D1HmCQYm5cwboEgRKEm%2FAyJisAIvLqnBIPF9%2FBi%2FMeZ4G5Ee8S1CnZI%2Bp21AmT9uMJ3RwDd4tUUigpFT6ya35g5u%2B4YLFI1ivSog%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM8uXtvNhl Or if you can find one from a Brat era EA81 they have a cable operated tap that’s a bypass setup rather than just a tap. There’s this one that popped up in my search for something else. It’s like the best setup but vacuum operated much like the VT unit, except it’s a bypass: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/113243302295?_skw=corvette+heater+tap&itmmeta=01JV1WVEBGGHWS4HTZR14X1VKH&hash=item1a5dd3a997:g:WhcAAOSwDMNkGQe4&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eL7rKl%2F2ljcIXVOOnL54JOwJ%2BUR2fbUufq%2FoaM9p7nLt85Zdd7srrSorj2BIUWgGYmb4Flk3R2uJRBAkQEtJbW%2FWyIGJoKk5hAQAJ15GBRPSVynDiwwJynUYCg83YGr%2BVPLXw3%2B7y1dsD%2BgxvfWL1RMtnFO9t0ly%2BeOt6vf2XdZjwrywR65%2BQRM6AVvBIzW6CMz8caCR3ZoI%2BBQFqFxb%2BFGy%2BT5X7AQDUVNFYSSZWq%2FU9FNhnNNkFfbK1C0qWh7oYEypRNfLV%2F2X8DJCDQK7jboTUHKNl1yQIRfpYTUXyJCQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM8uXtvNhl Damn I hate these eBay link addresses! Cheers Bennie

B replaced some bushings and ball joints on the front end of his white Forester. He also blew some dust out of the air filter on my Impreza. Messed with the rear seat belts too, they seem to just lock up sometimes. He found that after pushing the belt back into the reel all the way they then work normally. One problem is there's just more friction now with the belt rerouting. Not a huge deal as the rear seat is rarely occupied. The main thing I worked on was mounting the full size Dodge van heater core and 8" electric fan under the passenger side hood vent. B also pointed out there is room for about a 10" puller fan behind the driver's side of the radiator. Fan lines up nicely with the hood vent. Need to paint those brackets. I might get some valves so I can bypass either the heater core in the summer or this one in the winter before I bother plumbing it in. If anyone knows of any good selectable tees with the right size barb fitting on them I'm looking for one. The only tees I've found are fairly expensive and threaded so then I'd have to get barb fittings too. I could get one or two of these: https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/25-1018-bypass-heater-valve https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10849736&cc=1028012&pt=6860&jsn=647&_nck=Hsaep13M915uuutk8%2Bf0wOeyqERYmFnnScHREpb2kaeQZMBwbsjIzbH8p6X7b8doV7ZhIKZrju0iMu8H6dXM7%2Brn6x%2B0jcKSODBkngSksRc8Zan%2B8zelEqDy3fSWbwfOPltq76G%2F%2BqudM5QnqkfncwVTbvl7WYgy%2FB5R5n7ZhrV7LBZsioiB3TmAKe3DAh41KLIKq6Sxllk%2FuLl9WzsOYRw%2BOcEcAfTSJlHRiVNIl1RPrA%2FNoewztrWsDKuoD6xe7CNXcLhVSC%2FH96c%2B3QTLRwUrVp4D8yNkgd0OuL1jSrQILgJitIgI5w%3D%3D

Ok will try that. Thanks

One of my friends said a good rule of thumb for R134a is that the pressure on both sides after the system has sat for a while should be about 5-10psi more than the ambient temp in Fahrenheit. Seems weird but also seems to check out. I added some with the AC off but it would only get up to about 65psi (both sides). When I turned the AC back on the high and low pressures had gone up a bit. After a minute or so of running it would shut off for a bit, pressures would start to equalize, then it would kick back in. I slowly kept adding more (to the low side) with the AC on until it stopped cycling on and off. Wound up adding most of a second can, probably has somewhere around the 19-23oz total it's supposed to have. Low side is now about 30psi, high side about 150psi, blows cold. Drove around town quite a bit today, never noticed the AC cycling on and off, cold the whole time. The temp gauge did spike up to about 3/4 one time I started driving but then went back down slightly below the middle where it stayed for the rest of the time. Definitely need to get some accurate temp sensors installed.

Remove fuse 14 for 1 minute. Or disconnect the battery.

It's a running, driving car with less than 150K on the car itself. If it's less than 2K on a rebuilt engine, and you can prove that with receipts, it's at least a $2000 car. I see "Mechanic Specials" and "Nice car except needs a motor/transmission" on Craigslist for $2000. Yes, asking price is one thing and selling price is another, but there have been cars I've seen in way worse shape than that with quite a few more miles start off with a $2500 asking price and are gone in a day or two. If that car works for you, and you like it, keep it and get YOUR money's worth out of it by using it. You could sell it and wind up buying someone else's problems. As they say, better the devil you know than the one you don't.

There's a module you unplug to turn off the DRL permanently. On an 02 impreza it's passenger side glovebox/footwell area near the fuel pump relay. It's probably the same area on your legacy. Download the service manual for your car and find out.

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/ Full service manuals, so anything you'd want to do with the car can be found here. I'd recommend saving up for a hardcopy as it's nice to have on hand. They pop up on eBay from time to time and sometimes for a really good price. Also if you're serious about repairs, keep your eyes peeled for a parts catalog as this will make tracking down parts easier. Good luck mate :]

Now that numbers are being thrown out, I'll give my 2¢. Without seeing the car in person, the most I'd offer is $500. Even if it's had work done, without seeing it with my own eyes that'd be my top dollar. However, if you sell if to a yokel in the Midwest you could get $7500+ but that's assuming it's been completely redone to factory spec. As Moosens pointed out, the value determination is a buyer's game. These cars are truly cheap and made to stay that way. These aren't your typical classics that you can put a couple grand into and get your money back. They're a money pit. The value is in the emotional attachment. Still a sick ride though.

look in opposedforces.com look at your car. find the part . Go into it and look at the usage info which will tell you what other models used the same part. Hope this helps. O.

milage on car 118500 on engine 2000

I'm after a new tailshaft for my legacy. I know that subaru tailshafts aren't technically rebuildable and that they can actually be rebuilt but I can't find anyone locally to do it so im wondering what my options are? Is the gt tailshaft the same as the none gt lagacy? Someone has stated that newer gen driveshafts are compatible, is this true and if so which ones?

Your market is teenagers and early 20's, that have no money. They would not be leaving it as is, but instead would be jacking it up, putting new larger wheels on it and turning it into a ditch banger. So the top value would probably be no more than $1500. Unless it is a show car. Since you did not mention the mileage, I assume that it is over 250,000. If it is the original engine, then cut that price in half.

does any one know where to get wiring diagrams that are readable? on my British cars there a lots of them available I get them blown up and laminated so much easier to work with

Yes but with the switch off and car still running the drl’s are on. That’s annoying and a hazard while driving. Rear lights are always far too dim if they’re even on as drl’s I still haven’t looked yet but I’d bet we can engage that parking brake lever SWITCH to stay engaged.

Much to add, but let us know your plans for it.

I don’t remember the ‘02 Subaru’s having drl’s. I know you can leave the headlights on and they turn off when you either turn off the ignition or turn them off at the switch.

I'm with Moosens, enjoy it. Loyales have a lot going for them. They're bare bones. Simple and reliable. They're not fast but it's a lot of fun getting them to keep up with traffic. Only thing I'd watch out for with any southwest cars is rubber parts dry rot, so keep an eye on your bushings, vacuum hoses, and especially your fuel hoses. Subaru has given up on these cars, it's up to us crazies now to keep em going. :]

Oh and congratulations and enjoy the F out of that thing. If you’re at all like myself you’ll use it and not pamper it too much. But that’s your choice and this far down the line with less parts availability I can see where you won’t thrash it around. Plenty pictures of my 1978 4WD wagon romping through the Barrens on the internet. But that was my choice. Car still lives on. If you hit the trails and want some company give me a message in advance and I’ll try like hell to make it down there.

So you bought it so you should be happy that you spent an appropriate amount of money on it. That’s what matters. Ask a guy like me who drove those cars but has moved beyond and I’ll be critical. Ask a guy like yourself who went out of his way (correctly it seems) to fetch a vehicle that’s tied to your heart and you’ll get a more positive appraisal. Again with opinions, I’d keep that rack on and romp through the Barrens of south Jersey. Gotta have something to put the Jersey Devil on when you drag him out of there.

I think I'am going to remove roof rack and go with the straight bars that came with it. and maybe put the street tires back on for now it came with two sets of tires and wheels