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This was my 3rd Subaru - best damn car I ever owned and I kick myself for getting rid of it. ©1995

Well did the thing, so kinda pleased with myself, but also bummed.... dismounting went smooth, in italy they dont use salt on roads in winter, so cars here are very rust free, there was nothing frozen. I did have to make a 1/8" U shaped plate to add height to my fork tool as it wasnt tall enough to separate the taper, easy. 10 mins with an angle grinder to make second bigger issue was none of my fault, i mounted the first new ball in the arm, went to feed it into hole in the steering knuckle.... wont go in! Really? Turns out the SKF bodies were machined oversized due to an error in the factory, 38,10mm instead of the 37,95mm it should be! how the hell this can happen is a mystery. Options was to send them back to amazon and wait for new ones, but with the car on stands and the rubber boots destroyed during removal i couldnt go back to the old ones Luckily i have a lathe and been able to take a lick off the diameter and bring it back to dimension, but gee.... what the heck Now for the real bummer - As i was bolting back the torsion bar tie rods, i casually pulled on the bar and heard a knock.... well turns out that the free play making noise was in the tie rods, not the ball joints!!!!! Indeed after lowering the car and driving with the new ball joints, clacking was still there. The old ball joints had no free play to begin with. Ordered new tie rods, changed them in 10 minutes or so without even lifting the car, noise gone. Cant believe i did all the knuckle ball joints work (and SKF agravation) for nothing. So lesson learned, check your stupid little tie rods before changing your ball joints.

Got the spare tire well tank for the Impreza back from the fab shop. Before sending out for paint I capped and sleeved this tube so it doesn't just fill up with a pint of mud. Welded and painted passenger side bumper mount. That square tube goes a good foot back into the body. Replaced the engine mounts, that was more difficult than expected. Split engine mounts in middle, they didn't have the retaining plates like the ones off the other engine I installed. Lowered the exhaust to do it, the gaskets were definitely blown out. Unfortunately even after replacing with new the one still seems to leak a bit. Removed the oil pan and hammered it back out, bit more capacity than stock now. If nothing else it will take longer to get smashed up against the pickup now. Put foam strips around the radiator to seal up the gaps. Who knows if it will help, if nothing else helps keep the top tank from rubbing on the radiator support. Had to put in new threaded inserts for the skidplate. Those tack welds are just so they can be tightened down initially, they expand and clamp on the inside of the crossmember. Bracket for skidplate support, dipped that one in the enamel paint and looks good for now. Replaced trans cooler, condenser, and radiator. Bumper and skidplate etc back on. Maybe should have tried harder to find a paint shop that could match the body side color better but this place at least seems to use some very durable paint. Plus I think they're the only place in town that sandblasts prior to paint which was necessary with some of the old rusty pieces. Thought about going with white instead but I'm not sure that would be any better. I know, travelvw and slammo think I should have gone with black. Still need to replace the driver's side radiator fan and install the front sheet metal panel and license plate. Drove around the block and seems to be back to normal. No leaks I've found. Plan on driving it quite a bit tomorrow.

I’d say the most effective way would be tank out and clean with whatever method of choice. You could source a good, clean tank, put that in and be done with it too.

Got my strut from PEC Australia today. Looks good. If you absolutely need front struts, they have em. No clue on how long their inventory will last though. :]

Very clever. So rather than continue to reduce your hoarded inventory of Subie parts, you intend on hiding it in plain sight from your wife in the form of a Baja?

Hello. I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this. I recently acquired this 1986 Subaru GL Wagon AWD/3spd auto. I made an account here a few years back while helping a friend with his '87 Brat. If I'd never worked on that Brat I wouldn't have given this $500 listing the time of day. The car is relatively clean for sitting in field in Odessa, TX exposed for a decade. Some rust under the cowl visible from the engine bay from debris sitting in it. Then some from a failed brake booster or master cylinder that was leaking. I'm technically the second owner since the guy I bought it from didn't register it, tried getting it to run off the fuel tank, failed, and gave up on it. Today I got around to setting up a Home Depot bucket fuel pump setup and ran it straight to the carb. I changed the oil and filter because the filter looked ancient, topped the radiator and reservoir off with some distilled water, and charged up the battery. I was surprised when the car eventually was able to run on it's own at about 1200-1500rpm. The carb was dripping fuel so I didn't want to run it long. The temp gauge climbed up a bit past halfway, so I quickly set some bricks around the tires to test the transmission without rolling away. I was able to roll forward and backward so I called that a success and shut it down. I noticed a burp in the coolant reservoir and some bubbles inside for about a minute after shutoff. I'll do a combustion leak test on it to verify. I'm going to list some major items that will need to be addressed before it even goes on a test drive. Engine - Verify if this engine needs head gaskets. Then go through cooling system and timing belt. Carburetor - Weber swap or try and work on this stock Hitachi Complete braking system refresh - Including the booster, master cylinder, and rubber lines. Transmission Drain/Fill and filter. Some less major items that will need to be addressed. Headlights housings are rusted through and don't work (I guess from filling up with water?) I'd probably try and find some sealed beam DL headlights and grille. CV Axles - All 4 CV boots are leaking and they'll probably fail pretty quickly. Suspension looks original. Door locks don't work and the passenger rear door is stuck shut. Rear hatch struts. left turn signal works with hazards but not stalk. No spare tire. But I have all the hardware that retained it. I think the battle going forward is going to be parts availability. I'm spoiled from working on Toyotas. I remember struggling to even find shocks for my friend's '87 Brat. The automatic transmission is also a downside if it ends up having issues. I've found a number of great write-ups on this forum and some other websites so I have that on my side. Here are some pictures and videos to go with my random assortment of thoughts.

Junk yards and online (eBay, FB marketplace) would be where to source the axles. Problem is finding a car with the right axles. There's 4 or 5 different types of axles. While there's general guidelines you can follow to know which axles will be in which car, it also seems that Fuji just grabbed a random set of axles off the shelf and just put them on each car as it was going down the assembly line. It's really annoying tracking down axles. I had to buy 3 axles that were listed as the axle I needed before I got the one I was looking for. Unless you go there in person and can identify the axles, assume the person who listed the axle (new, refurb, or used) doesn't know which axle it is. In the FSM, there is an axle chart (in section 4 I believe) use that to find the identification bands on the axle shaft, the shape of the inner joint cup, and the inner joint spline count. These are your general identification landmarks. For the interim, I'm sure the Rock Auto axles will work just fine. But once you get the car rolling, I'd be saving up for used OEM axles, new front struts, a set of 4x140 wheels, some wheel bearings, and strut mounts. Just my opinion but if you're even considering dropping the car to stock height, start locating parts ASAP. KYB struts can only be found easily shipped from Australia. So shipping is very expensive, plus the "old a** part" tax. You'd be looking at $700 for a pair including shipping. Strut mounts (again, KYB brand) are also very hard to find. And typically go for $40-$90 per mount. It'd be expensive to drop the car and give the suspension the attention it probably needs or will need soon. But it's easier on the car long-term and makes the parts struggle a little less complicated. Tldr: The Rock Auto axles are a good permanent solution for a "throw away" car but if you plan to keep it long term, I'd recommend going to stock suspension. Begin your hunt for the parts required to make that swap ASAP. Last call for parts was a decade ago, we're stumbling out on the end of a bartender's broom at this point.

From what my Parts Catalog says (and it only goes up to '90 so YMMV), the Loyale used a 95AC-23 axle (PN 23221GA373) which has 23 splines and a length between boots of 242mm. These axles are actually the shortest of all the OEM axles. You MIGHT (maybe, possibly, no guarantees) be able to get away with a longer OEM axle. The 87AC axles (PN 23221GA233) have a length of 257mm between boots. The 82AC axles (PN 23221GA244) have a length of 265mm between boots. You could gain up to 23mm in axle length with OEM axles which are better quality than modern production axles. Sorry I didn't really answer your question. Me personally, I'd drop the car to standard height and swap in used OEM axles. But that's just my opinion. Second option I'd personally go for is keep the lift, buy some 82AC axles and see if they work. Third option I'd go for is getting the Rock Auto extreme articulation axles. I'm sure they'd work, but for how long? And by that time would you be able to get them again? Going to stock gives you the most flexibility with parts and greater parts longevity. I'm beating the "keep it stock" drum pretty hard, but whatever you choose to do is your decision, I can only offer my opinion. :] P.S. looking for the right axles can be a major PITA. If you need alternative part numbers just shoot me a line.

I'll just scrap the HG's and go out to my engine rebuilder to grab an extra set I had given them. Those are OEM gaskets anyways.

Maybe i missed it but have you gotten an engine stand and flushed those head bolt holes? That’s going to be key. Same with bolt threads. Don’t sweat it all. Designs like these cam towers are reasons I have closed my chapter or EA82s but hey its your special engine so i understand your commitment. But to a lot of is older folks its just an EA82 and just do tour best, don’t go nuts with retotqueing the cam tower and etc etc but i am NOT a mechanic. Good luck.

Nope. Meant EA82. The EA81 shifter is completely different to the EA82. Ahhh… sorry, it just clicked, you’re talking about an EA81 5spd. I’m pretty sure these are more like the EA82 setup too. I’m not used to the EA81 wagons being a fwd 5spd - we only got that gearbox in the hardtop coupes over here. All wagons were 4wd 4spd boxes. So with your sloppy shifter, get under the car: If you see a uni joint on the selector shaft it’s same or very close to EA82. It probably needs a set of bushes, I did a repair to mine once with a piece of garden hose… If the selector shaft is horizontal and has a sleeve over it then that thread fix *should* be of use. Hope this helps - and clears up some confusion!

Going to the UP in a few days but I don't anticipate using the low range much. Thought I replied here but don't see it now so I'll try again. Got the low range rebuilt with some of the upgraded parts. For instance, added needles to this surface on the input shaft that rides in the high range output shaft. These are locked together in high range but are always discolored and worn after use. Trans went back together fairly easily. B checked the gap on the crank trigger sensor (only .024", would be fairly difficult to reduce) and replaced the clutch disc. We put the trans back in and reassembled the rest of the car. Seems to be back to normal. At first the clutch action was strange, the first half of the pedal travel just got the slave pushrod in contact with the fork so you had to push the pedal all the way to the floor. Tried pumping it up and bleeding it, no improvement. After maybe an hour of city driving it's suddenly back to normal, only have to push the pedal about 1/4 of the way down to disengage. Low fuel light no longer works, it was working during last year's trip out west but I ran out of gas with the gauge a little above empty and no light on the dash. Fortunately was able to coast into a gas station to a pump, did have a jerry can with me. One of the seals on one of B's struts was out of place so we took the strut off and went through it. Got the seal retainer welded back into place, replaced that seal, cleaned up the threads on the shaft, and replaced the bumpstop.

If you do wheel bearings I'd recommend buying sealed bearings and foregoing the seals. If anything take one seal off each bearing, face the unsealed sides into the knuckle and pack grease between them inside the knuckle. The seals are a real pain in my opinion. Front bearings are super easy compared to the rears, if you lift the engine & trans as a unit to get the axles out then you don't have to detach any suspension components. If anything take your outer tie rods out of the knuckle but I got away without it. Putting the axles back in, you may have to loosen/partially drop the control arms. :]

DRW makes a full polyurethane shifter bushing set (I promise I have no connection to the brand even though I sing their praises everywhere, I just believe in the product and respect the support for these old Roos). My shifter was awful before I installed them. Shifter in gear felt the same in neutral. Getting that roll pin out without dropping the transmission is a serious PITA. I ended up cutting the bolt going through the bushing out and installing a new shoulder bolt with a carbide drill bushing on the other end and an ultra-low profile nut. Clearance in there is non-existent. It's really not rocket science, however you slice it if you manage to get a new bushing in there then you'll notice an improvement. May be worth replacing all the shift linkage bushings while you're under there. :]

No it’s not! Try Subarino auto electrical. He’s based in Perth and will send stuff internationally. The strut with the welded seat bolts in. Subaru obviously realised these were cheaper to manufacture and no one used the “wind up suspension” feature of the earlier struts. @SuspiciousPizza - I can provide you with an AUDM VIN if you need it.

I got a kit from rockauto in 2018. timeserts... Never heard of them. Not to bad of a price either, Thanks!

I love the technical terms used in the illustration. Haha.

Thanks for the wisdom! What I did exactly was, unbolt the stabilizer from the from the transverse link, and loosen the bolt holing in the link so I could bring it down, I then took out the old air struts and then put the new one in. I couldn't bring the knuckle down low enough that I could slip the strut into the hole of the knuckle from the bottom, but I could bend the knuckle at an angle and then pop the strut into the knuckle (This is after I had loosened the bolt at the knuckle, and sprayed some WD40 to help it slide in). I had done this with the passenger side and it's not having issues, but I am now going to inspect that to make sure it's not about to fall apart. On the passenger side it was loose enough I could use my hands, however on the drivers side, I used my leg since I was close enough to the wall. Below is some MS-Paint art to illustrate my "infinite genius": I think I see what you're saying about disconnecting the joint. Tomorrow I'll take off the boot and see what's going on in there. I am assuming I'll need an extra pin, but we'll see, I'll reach out if I do and I'll gladly pay for it.

I have accessport manager 3.1.9 and a bunch of different tunes available. Not sure if there is one for secondary air pump delete. Below are some of the tunes Filename Vehicle Economy Mode v350.ptm 2006 USDM Imprez Economy Mode v400.ptm 2006 USDM Imprez Stage v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage 91 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage1 91 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage1 91 v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage1 91 v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage1 93 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage1 93 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage1 93 v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage1 93 v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage1 ACN91 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage1 ACN91 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage ACN91 v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage ACN91 v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza Stage1 +EBCS 91 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza V Stage1+EBCS 91 v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza V Stage1+EBCS 93 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza V Stage1+EBCS 93 v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza V •Stage1+EBCS ACN91 v350.p... 2006 USDM Impreza V Stage1+EBCS ACN91 v400.p... 2006 USDM Impreza V Stage 91 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza W Stage 91 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza W Stage2 91 v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza W Stage 93 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza W •Stage 93 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza W Stage 93 v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza WI Stage2 ACN91 v350.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza WI Stage ACN91 v350.ptm Stage2 ACN91 v400.ptm 2006 USDM Impreza WF 2006 USDM Impreza WF Stage+EBCS 91 1050x v35... 2006 USDM Impreza W

Small update, I was able to find some conventional struts at a yard in my area and they went on just fine! At least, the rear ones did, I haven't done the front ones because I wanted to try out a little experiment. What I have learned, is that you can have the front air suspension independently from the rear, as long as your plug up the rear. I used the solenoids from the rear air struts and plugged them into the airline and just left the power unplugged, which leaves them in a closed state. Not exactly a revelation, but still fun to know. This wont be long term of course, but I did drive it around my neighborhood, and it didn't explode so that's a win in my book. It does lead to a somewhat silly look on the car when the front struts are deflated. The attached picture doesn't do it justice, but hopefully my MS-Paint art shows what I mean. It basically has a very aggressive attack angle which really made me laugh when I first saw it.

Lift kits. SJR - is the main man who builds these kits. There are others but for sure we elder folks here know Scott - SJR - from this board. Scott may have stopped making kits for the older Subarus but he may still have a kit in stock or be able to break out the out templates etc. Naturally that market has dried up and the latest focus is on newer vehicles. There may be more involvement needed beyond the simple suspension swap like axle length and camber adjustments so be aware before you start. Basic rule - others have done it - you can too. Just step on the rocks as you cross the river. Wink Check archives. And sadly there’s FB too where you’ll find Scott - SJR - these days.

It might work, not sure though. The issue is the strut sockets into the steering knuckle, so you'd need a strut that had the right diameter and spring mount location. Here are the 4WD strut parts numbers I had in my notes. There are some used Loyale struts on eBay at the moment (both right and left). Front Right Sachs: W0133-1932779 Front Left Sachs: W0133-2038805 Front Right TRW: JGM4031SR Front Left TRW: JGM4031SL Front struts are very difficult to find. They are available but the parts availability seems to come in waves. There's not really any "upgrade" parts for these cars (there are overload springs out there). Just finding parts designed for these cars is an accomplishment. :]

You can replace them with 2WD or 4WD ones. Only different is a slight height change (2WD sit lower) so replace both of them. Your springs will still work on either. Grab some new bump stops and bellows for the struts if you have the scratch. I think there was some TRW struts out there very recently. Good luck :]

Light bead maybe 1/16 to 1/8” but as you mentioned about clogs don’t over do it. And i’ve put the bead to the pump body, slap on the gasket then bolt it up without applying any bond to the engine case. Over here you can find the same product at the Nissan deal way cheaper. And if you have more than one Nissan dealer call them before driving over because some dealers just automatically mark up higher.

Hey, I found the part number. It's 73711FA000, superseding 73710FA020. I'm not sure what it does with the vacuum, initially I thought it was part of the pulsed secondary air injection system to clean up exhaust emissions, but that one looks has a little filter hat on it. Here it is on the official website - https://parts.subaru.com/p/49283327/73711FA000.html For some reason it's listed as part of the air conditioning system and part of the A/C diagram, despite being connected to the intake manifold. It's not listed on any of the vacuum routing diagrams as far as I've seen, which is why I think so many have had issues finding it.

Found a way to save these hard-to-come-by pieces from death by rust. Start by removing rear axle & seized stub axle as a unit from rear trailing arm. Hammer out with block of wood & BFH or dead blow hammer Or my favorite though some will object - a ball peen in stub end & 4 lb drilling hammer. Next remove axle shaft from inner CV/DOJ cup. DOJs are easiest. Boot, outer lock ring, then pull everything else as one. Swab out old grease with rags. CVs require a few more steps, like rocking inner race & cage to one side, removing 2 balls, back the other way then last 2. Then work cage & inner race out - they do come out. Notice hammer marks on CV. Futile attempts to get the bugger off the stub. Note difference in how cup plugs are installed. CVs - plug hollow side up. DOJs - hollow side down. Use an awl to punch a starter hole in cup plug then screw a 1 inch or longer #10 sheet metal screw in which will lift the plug out of the recess. This exposes the end of stub axle. You might have to give seized parts a good soaking overnight with Kroil or other penetrating spray before press work. Install bearing clamshell around DOJ/CV just above dust shield, then place this in between heavy duty plates in 20 ton press. Use 4-6 inch piece of 5/8-3/4 inch round stock with ends squared up on end of stub to press with. Not too long or it may become angled & then bend easily. Plug for swagoffroad products: http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-MACHINED-ARBOR-PRESS-PLATES-PAIR_p_7.html Pump press until either stub starts moving or feels like all 20T pressure is there. Rap on outside of cup a little with hammer to jar it. Helps align things for removal. Relieve pressure & turn cup some. Rinse & repeat until stub comes loose. Did this for alexbuoy & one of his took everything my old Enco press could muster. Finally came loose with a loud bang causing everything on press to jump. Bead blast or wire brush stubs. Hammer holes in cup plugs flat then soft solder holes shut. Clean up flux on plugs. Install with Permatex No. 1 or similar. Remember DOJs - cup plugs down. CVs - cup plugs up Apply anti-seize to splines after re-installing in rear arms. Both ends. Don't forget the rubber washers on short ends of stub axles. Hope this helps save a few axles & stubs in the future. Parts for EA cars are getting scarce.

I don't see what you could have done wrong if all your readings were as you say. It a simple potentiometer setup with an on/off switch on the side to let the ECU positively know when the throttle is in the full idle position. If you currently have no continuity between pins B&D, unlike when you tested it new, that would indicate that the carbon trace on the board had burned in half or was separated somehow. If you now connect the Ohm meter between pins B &C and then turn the shaft from stop to stop, do you ever measure anything but an open connection as the wiper sweeps around the carbon trace? The 5 volt signal should not be able to supply enough current to damage the sensor. Even if that supply wire measured 12 volts, it would barely generate 0.003 amps (0.04 watts) which should easily be handled by the carbon wiper. I don't know what kind of time schedule you are under but I can offer to bench test the TPS and see if I can determine what failed. Not much to lose except for the time to mail it back and forth and the postage cost. I myself would not risk another new TPS until I had a better idea what failed.

The weather was finally somwhat bearable (if humid as hell for my tastes), my leg is 99% healed, and I had a day off to play with, so I started poking at the rear suspension again. Pulled the subframe apart and separated the sheet metal piece from the diff, and removed the knuckle assemblies including the CV's and lateral arms. Also I think i made my first obnoxious mistake. Nothing too unrecoverable but still... annoying. Made a couple of test fits and chalk marks with the whole assembly to get an idea of what I thought I'd be wanting to chop. Actually chopping was the mistake (sort of) - but I'll detail that shortly. The diagonal marks indicate roughly where the frame ends on the brat where I need the subframe to sit. Did another test fit with just the diff and subframe, determined it would be easier to fit where I needed it to if I just cut it straight where the stock bushings ended. The intent here was (and I guess still is) to re-fabricate mounting points to the frame with new bushing locations to fit in the smaller chassis. Got everything tucked up in and sort of leaned in place where I think It will go. The diff is bolted to the subframe, and then also mounted to the original Brat front diff crossmember. Fits pretty close to where it needs to be - only thing now is that it looks as if there's about 1.5 - 2 inches of height I'll need to make up to keep everything sitting level. It was at this point where looking back I think I maybe made a bit of a mistake cutting off the bushings. Funny thing is - mere minutes after completing all the test fitting and cutting today, a friend sent me a youtube video from a guy doing a similar subframe swap in on a later gen brat where he just...*widened the frame and used the stock bushings.* Shocker, this would have been a much simpler approach and I think there would still be enough clearance for me to narrow the links and CVs to tuck everything back in under the stock wheel wells. Granted, the gentleman in question had to refabricate his whole rear frame, and appeared to be planning on adding a widebody kit setup though so maybe he didn't need to be so concerned about the wheelbase width in the back. Lack of access to the "frame" from a different perspective was also a reason for me not thinking of this - I'm still using the bed as a demi-storage locker and haven't cut the bed floor or wheel wells out yet. Might change that and get the ol' death wheel out for the bed soon to, but that metal is in pretty good shape and I'd rather not cut into it if I don't have to. I'm deciding to look at the silver linings here - It's probably for the best I'm still going my own way of it - I'm definitely maximizing the room i have available to move the wheels inboard for a more stock look. I'm thinking I might be able to get clever and integrate the original moustache bar mounts or something... We'll see - I have to sleep on it. Absolute worst case I go to the junkyard and try to source another rear subframe and then widen the frame rails similarly to the other builder. A quick Google looks like one can be had for about $150 used. Maybe less if I find a pick and pull with one nearby or get lucky on marketplace. Mounting problems aside - having put everything roughly where I want it and looking at the bare underside of the subframe itself I think I'm going to have to take a slightly different track and shorten both the CV as well as the lateral links - chopping up the subframe more than I already have is going to prove much more complex than I initially assumed. I'd wanted to try to save on parts money and maintain stock impreza parts wherever possible, but in this case I think it will end up becoming much more expensive in terms of my time to relocate the pivot points instead of just changing to an adjustable link setup (It looks like I can get some of those for my GC model year for about $200.) Hopefully adjustable links will be adjustable enough to where I don't need to modify those to shorten them sufficiently. Anyways, looks a lot like it did when I started today but now I have more information to play with. Ever onward!

145 is correct, but I generally go to 200 or 250 on all mine. It will not hurt the bearings. Early VW busses used the 36mm nut, and their book spec for them was 250 GD

I've run clicking axles till they blew up also. While that took quite a while (almost a year, bit less than 50,000 miles), my car is 4wd, which means when the axle went, I just pulled the lever and kept on running. That's not an option for you, being a 2wd car. So what I'd do, were it me, is I'd run it as is until you get paid, then go down to Napa (or Schuck's or Autozone or Parts PLus, or whoever else) and get a lifetime warranty shaft. As far as actually doing the swap goes, it really isn't hard, but takes time. I can do mine in about 45 mins each (fronts). Here's what you need. 1) Sturdy floor jack 2) Sturdy jack stands 3) 1/2" drive breaker bar 4) 1/2" drive 19mm socket 5) 1/2" drive 36mm socket 6) needle nose pliers 7) flat head screwdriver 8) 1/2" drive 14mm socket or 14mm wrench 9) 1/2" drive 17mm socket or 17mm wrench 10) 10mm wrench 11) Hammer 12) small drift punch Ok...Step 1: Jack the car up and support it on the jack stands. DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT TRYING THIS WITHOUT ENSURING THE CAR IS SECURELY SUPPORTED! Step 2: use the breaker bar and 19mm socket to remove the lug nuts and wheel/tire. Step 3: use the pliers to remove the cotter pin in the axle and castle nut Step 4: use the breaker bar and 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. Step 5: use the 14mm wrench to remove the bolt(s) holding the brake caliper to the bracket. USe a coat hanger or piece of string to hold the caliper out of the way without hanging it by its hose. step 6: use the 17mm wrench to remove the bolts holding the bracket to the steering knuckle. step 7: use the 10mm wrench to remove the bolts holding the dust plate to the steering knuckle. step 8: crawl under the car and locate the roll pin in the Double Offset Joint of the axle you want to remove. One end will be flush, the other will have a divot. Rotate the axle to locate the divoted end. step 9: use the hammer and small drift punch to drive the roll pin out of its hole taking care not to drive it ALL the way out. They're hard to find once the go SPROING. step 10: turn the steering wheel all the way to the lock in one direction. step 11: use the hammer to drive the axle stub out of the wheel bearing as far as you can. Take care not to hit the wheel bearing. Once the axle stub has been removed from the wheel bearing, the DOJ will slide off of the stub of the tranny and the axle is out of the car. step 12: slide the DOJ of your new axle onto the stub of the tranny, ensuring to line up the holes in the DOJ cup with those in the tranny stub. The easiest way to do this is to ensure that the divoted side of the new DOJ cup is in the same position as the old one. step 13: insert the end of the axle stub into the wheel bearing. Use the hammer to tap the steering knuckle while you press the axle into the bearing. Once you've got enough thread through the bearing, it may be easier to use a large fender washer and the castle nut to pull the new axle through the bearing. Perform steps 1-8 in reverse order to reassemble. I'm fairly certain that's pretty much everything, but I did all that out of my head, so, YMMV, etc. Assume about $70 each for axles pluse core and tax. You shouldn't need a mahcine shop unless you are replacing wheel bearings at the same time. Wheel bearing are pressed in and out, so you either need a machine shop or a press for those. Be advised, though, that the axles fit VERY snugly through the bearings, so its going to turn into a wrestling match to get the axles in and out of them.