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Hello. I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this. I recently acquired this 1986 Subaru GL Wagon AWD/3spd auto. I made an account here a few years back while helping a friend with his '87 Brat. If I'd never worked on that Brat I wouldn't have given this $500 listing the time of day. The car is relatively clean for sitting in field in Odessa, TX exposed for a decade. Some rust under the cowl visible from the engine bay from debris sitting in it. Then some from a failed brake booster or master cylinder that was leaking. I'm technically the second owner since the guy I bought it from didn't register it, tried getting it to run off the fuel tank, failed, and gave up on it. Today I got around to setting up a Home Depot bucket fuel pump setup and ran it straight to the carb. I changed the oil and filter because the filter looked ancient, topped the radiator and reservoir off with some distilled water, and charged up the battery. I was surprised when the car eventually was able to run on it's own at about 1200-1500rpm. The carb was dripping fuel so I didn't want to run it long. The temp gauge climbed up a bit past halfway, so I quickly set some bricks around the tires to test the transmission without rolling away. I was able to roll forward and backward so I called that a success and shut it down. I noticed a burp in the coolant reservoir and some bubbles inside for about a minute after shutoff. I'll do a combustion leak test on it to verify. I'm going to list some major items that will need to be addressed before it even goes on a test drive. Engine - Verify if this engine needs head gaskets. Then go through cooling system and timing belt. Carburetor - Weber swap or try and work on this stock Hitachi Complete braking system refresh - Including the booster, master cylinder, and rubber lines. Transmission Drain/Fill and filter. Some less major items that will need to be addressed. Headlights housings are rusted through and don't work (I guess from filling up with water?) I'd probably try and find some sealed beam DL headlights and grille. CV Axles - All 4 CV boots are leaking and they'll probably fail pretty quickly. Suspension looks original. Door locks don't work and the passenger rear door is stuck shut. Rear hatch struts. left turn signal works with hazards but not stalk. No spare tire. But I have all the hardware that retained it. I think the battle going forward is going to be parts availability. I'm spoiled from working on Toyotas. I remember struggling to even find shocks for my friend's '87 Brat. The automatic transmission is also a downside if it ends up having issues. I've found a number of great write-ups on this forum and some other websites so I have that on my side. Here are some pictures and videos to go with my random assortment of thoughts.

What I've learned refurbishing my 3rd gen wagon (89 GL). Parts: Hoard them. Buy yourself an ultrasonic cleaner because there's gonna be a lot of greasy used parts you'll need to clean if you intend to run this car for any period of time. Engine: EA82's are simple to teardown. However, aluminum threads don't like to be abused. Be careful with exhaust flanges and intake manifold bolts. They tend to strip or corrode in some form or another. Pistons, connecting rods, valve springs, valves, valve retainers, oil pumps, OEM water pumps, cylinder heads without deep cracks, oil pickups, and more can be difficult to find. Luckily you're in the right place to find them but still. There's a reason EA82's have gone the way of the dodo. Buying a good parts engine (if you can find one) isn't a bad idea. Suspension: Front struts and good quality front strut mounts are difficult to find. The chinesium parts that makes up 80% of the parts market for these cars usually aren't worth giving the time of day. Look at DRW Bushings for suspension bushings. I've been very impressed with the bushings and the owner's communication, I'd highly recommend. Springs can be hard to find, there are overload springs out there. Wheels & Bearings: 4x140 is going to be your biggest hurdle. Looks like you've got a set of shallow wagon wheels (I'm jealous). It's just difficult to find known good wheels, new 4x140 wheels are quite obscure. Bearings aren't too bad if you have a bearing puller. Honestly the seals can put up more of a fight than the bearings. Remember to replace your axle nut spring washers. Axles: If they're not rusty and crusty, clean them and reboot them. Buy neoprene boots, I recommend EMPI. I use Yamalube ACC-MOLDM-GS-05. Use what you like but it's good grease. You may find out, if you haven't already, that if you do need to replace an axle, it's difficult to buy "the right one". There are multiple different axles (4 or 5, I can't remember) that are used depending on the cars drivetrain and fuel delivery system. Stay away from most cheap axles. Sometimes remans are okay but your best bet is used OEM that have been cleaned and rebooted. Get familiar with the identification bands on the axle shafts near the outer boot and your axle spline count. Outer axle joints cannot be disassembled, to clean wipe the grease off and pour a cleaning solvent into the joint. Pour out the sludge and wipe away the rest. Let the solvent off gas and repack with grease. Interior: Speedometer cables and throttle cables can be difficult to find. Yes there are cheap parts put there, but those are always a crap shoot. The foam on the HVAC blend doors has probably severely degraded and that will cause issues with actually feeling the full effect of your HVAC system. I'd recommend replacing the foam. Once you've torn the dash off, its easy to do again. Getting it back together can be a pain with the HVAC controls (4 vacuum hoses and a cable). Plastic trim pieces are NLA and will have to be a junkyard, craigslist, or eBay find. If you decide to manual swap the car, get a pedal box from a later GL or a Loyale. Older pedal boxes are prone to cracking. Glass: Junkyard. Literature: Get a copy of a parts manual and I'd also recommend a hardcopy of the factory service manual set. Yes you can find them mostly online but having a hardcopy is very helpful. Good luck :]

They replaced the slave. If they give me the old one, I might investigate rebuilding it and keep it with the other spares I have for the car. With fresh fluid and a bleed, maybe the master will be ok, if not, it's the onley thing left so, I might tackle it myself but really guys, maintenance and repair work is getting to be a challenge for me nowadays.

That's a lot cleaner than any you see here! Good choice for a project. Stuck thermostat also can cause overheating and foaming, but head gasket isn't too bad of a project. The stock carbs aren't terrible, and often can be fixed with just a cleaning, being careful not to tear gaskets. Brake booster and master cylinder are usually reliable; no need to replace them unless you have issues. Try ebay or junkyards for better headlights.

I'm the one who suggested that the cylinders were washed. lol. The piston rings seal with a very thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall. If you ever get fuel without starting, like trying to get a bunch of old gas and a dirty carb to run, the fuel washes this thin oil coat off the cylinder walls, and you lose compression. Fixing the problem that caused it not to start (i.e. flushing bad fuel, and dismantling and cleaning a gummed up carb), and starting it, will get oil slung back onto the cylinder walls, restoring the ring seal, and restoring compression. Sticky valves or such aren't going to happen simultaneously to all four cylinders from a running engine... Mechanical things that could affect all cylinders at once are a broken crank, broken cam (I saw this once! ... but there was a lot more broken too), broken timing gears, slipping ring gear (so you're not actually cranking the engine), etc... But if the accessories and dist are turning, those are all going to be fine. Broken cam or timing gears also cause a distinctly different sound, since some cylinders will be stuck with both valves closed, and compress each revolution - the sound of an EJ ready for a timing belt and half the valves replaced.... Am I positive I'm right? Of course not. They could have blown both headgaskets at once, or some other simultaneous multiple failure. Or the engine is total crap and never actually had any approximation of full compression but was limping along. But, based on my experience, I think it's the most likely diagnosis, which is why I said "probably".

The weather was finally somwhat bearable (if humid as hell for my tastes), my leg is 99% healed, and I had a day off to play with, so I started poking at the rear suspension again. Pulled the subframe apart and separated the sheet metal piece from the diff, and removed the knuckle assemblies including the CV's and lateral arms. Also I think i made my first obnoxious mistake. Nothing too unrecoverable but still... annoying. Made a couple of test fits and chalk marks with the whole assembly to get an idea of what I thought I'd be wanting to chop. Actually chopping was the mistake (sort of) - but I'll detail that shortly. The diagonal marks indicate roughly where the frame ends on the brat where I need the subframe to sit. Did another test fit with just the diff and subframe, determined it would be easier to fit where I needed it to if I just cut it straight where the stock bushings ended. The intent here was (and I guess still is) to re-fabricate mounting points to the frame with new bushing locations to fit in the smaller chassis. Got everything tucked up in and sort of leaned in place where I think It will go. The diff is bolted to the subframe, and then also mounted to the original Brat front diff crossmember. Fits pretty close to where it needs to be - only thing now is that it looks as if there's about 1.5 - 2 inches of height I'll need to make up to keep everything sitting level. It was at this point where looking back I think I maybe made a bit of a mistake cutting off the bushings. Funny thing is - mere minutes after completing all the test fitting and cutting today, a friend sent me a youtube video from a guy doing a similar subframe swap in on a later gen brat where he just...*widened the frame and used the stock bushings.* Shocker, this would have been a much simpler approach and I think there would still be enough clearance for me to narrow the links and CVs to tuck everything back in under the stock wheel wells. Granted, the gentleman in question had to refabricate his whole rear frame, and appeared to be planning on adding a widebody kit setup though so maybe he didn't need to be so concerned about the wheelbase width in the back. Lack of access to the "frame" from a different perspective was also a reason for me not thinking of this - I'm still using the bed as a demi-storage locker and haven't cut the bed floor or wheel wells out yet. Might change that and get the ol' death wheel out for the bed soon to, but that metal is in pretty good shape and I'd rather not cut into it if I don't have to. I'm deciding to look at the silver linings here - It's probably for the best I'm still going my own way of it - I'm definitely maximizing the room i have available to move the wheels inboard for a more stock look. I'm thinking I might be able to get clever and integrate the original moustache bar mounts or something... We'll see - I have to sleep on it. Absolute worst case I go to the junkyard and try to source another rear subframe and then widen the frame rails similarly to the other builder. A quick Google looks like one can be had for about $150 used. Maybe less if I find a pick and pull with one nearby or get lucky on marketplace. Mounting problems aside - having put everything roughly where I want it and looking at the bare underside of the subframe itself I think I'm going to have to take a slightly different track and shorten both the CV as well as the lateral links - chopping up the subframe more than I already have is going to prove much more complex than I initially assumed. I'd wanted to try to save on parts money and maintain stock impreza parts wherever possible, but in this case I think it will end up becoming much more expensive in terms of my time to relocate the pivot points instead of just changing to an adjustable link setup (It looks like I can get some of those for my GC model year for about $200.) Hopefully adjustable links will be adjustable enough to where I don't need to modify those to shorten them sufficiently. Anyways, looks a lot like it did when I started today but now I have more information to play with. Ever onward!

Made a tube to brace the radiator support longitudinally and to protect the exhaust. Bracket bolts to the body right in front of the subframe where the bumper brace was bolted in stock. Added a tube to brace that and protect the oil filter and cooler. Tubes welded back in to connect the radiator support to the bumper and to mount a piece of sheetmetal. B cut a piece of 1/8" 4130 plate for the front of the skid and I welded that in. Old airbox guard was mostly destroyed so I made a new one. Welded as much as I could on the car, then we unbolted it. B cut a piece of 4130 sheetmetal to protect the condenser and radiator. Radiator and condenser mounts welded on new radiator support. Basically ready for paint. I would like to get this thing back on the road ASAP but I'm going to see if the paint shop can get this all painted up fairly soon. Have new lines/hoses for the oil cooler, new radiator, etc. B took a pair of good engine mounts off my spare EZ30. So we have to swap some of that out.

I was just looking at this old rally photo of the Subaru WRC team (I assume in the mid 90s?) and I just noticed that the cars in the back of the photo are Leones/Loyales and not Legacys! I thought it was surprising since all the photos i see from this time are the early Legacys. Does anyone have any or know of any other photos of these 555 Leones. I honestly think it wouldn't look too bad, although I prefer the white blue and gold on the rally Leones.

The old “how do you eat an elephant?” dilemma. One bite at a time.

Thanks for the check-in and the compliments, all. In addition to the busted leg, the absurd heat of where I live and some other personal life stuff has held me up more than anticipated. Other paying work also got delayed as a result of the bum leg, so this took a backseat for a bit out of necessity. That being said I'm out of the boot now and I am the proud new owner of a higher-clearance jack I got on sale recently - so I'm hoping to get a couple early-morning sessions in on the rear subframe here in the next week or so. Progress will also likely speed up again around October when temperatures generally start to come down a little and I can do driveway fabrication without cooking myself. Anyways, long story short, I'm dipping back into it - updates of more significance soon.

Found a way to save these hard-to-come-by pieces from death by rust. Start by removing rear axle & seized stub axle as a unit from rear trailing arm. Hammer out with block of wood & BFH or dead blow hammer Or my favorite though some will object - a ball peen in stub end & 4 lb drilling hammer. Next remove axle shaft from inner CV/DOJ cup. DOJs are easiest. Boot, outer lock ring, then pull everything else as one. Swab out old grease with rags. CVs require a few more steps, like rocking inner race & cage to one side, removing 2 balls, back the other way then last 2. Then work cage & inner race out - they do come out. Notice hammer marks on CV. Futile attempts to get the bugger off the stub. Note difference in how cup plugs are installed. CVs - plug hollow side up. DOJs - hollow side down. Use an awl to punch a starter hole in cup plug then screw a 1 inch or longer #10 sheet metal screw in which will lift the plug out of the recess. This exposes the end of stub axle. You might have to give seized parts a good soaking overnight with Kroil or other penetrating spray before press work. Install bearing clamshell around DOJ/CV just above dust shield, then place this in between heavy duty plates in 20 ton press. Use 4-6 inch piece of 5/8-3/4 inch round stock with ends squared up on end of stub to press with. Not too long or it may become angled & then bend easily. Plug for swagoffroad products: http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-MACHINED-ARBOR-PRESS-PLATES-PAIR_p_7.html Pump press until either stub starts moving or feels like all 20T pressure is there. Rap on outside of cup a little with hammer to jar it. Helps align things for removal. Relieve pressure & turn cup some. Rinse & repeat until stub comes loose. Did this for alexbuoy & one of his took everything my old Enco press could muster. Finally came loose with a loud bang causing everything on press to jump. Bead blast or wire brush stubs. Hammer holes in cup plugs flat then soft solder holes shut. Clean up flux on plugs. Install with Permatex No. 1 or similar. Remember DOJs - cup plugs down. CVs - cup plugs up Apply anti-seize to splines after re-installing in rear arms. Both ends. Don't forget the rubber washers on short ends of stub axles. Hope this helps save a few axles & stubs in the future. Parts for EA cars are getting scarce.

Hmmm, I think I'm going to at TRY to repair them, but as a backup, I'll get myself some regular struts. Do you know if the struts from an 89 XT6 would fit in an 86 without much issue? Or should I go for something else?

One vote for Replace with Struts. Did it with a wagon. Was so worth it. Had an XT with same situation but never fixed it. My poor sister in law suffered that XT hardtail for a while before she’d had enough. Only reason to refresh or replace with same would be listening to your heart. My opinion.

I don't see what you could have done wrong if all your readings were as you say. It a simple potentiometer setup with an on/off switch on the side to let the ECU positively know when the throttle is in the full idle position. If you currently have no continuity between pins B&D, unlike when you tested it new, that would indicate that the carbon trace on the board had burned in half or was separated somehow. If you now connect the Ohm meter between pins B &C and then turn the shaft from stop to stop, do you ever measure anything but an open connection as the wiper sweeps around the carbon trace? The 5 volt signal should not be able to supply enough current to damage the sensor. Even if that supply wire measured 12 volts, it would barely generate 0.003 amps (0.04 watts) which should easily be handled by the carbon wiper. I don't know what kind of time schedule you are under but I can offer to bench test the TPS and see if I can determine what failed. Not much to lose except for the time to mail it back and forth and the postage cost. I myself would not risk another new TPS until I had a better idea what failed.

Time for a disc brake conversion!

Just a suggestion for the tank if you take it serious and want it around for maybe the next generation or so. Moyer in PA does an awesome job. If I could post pics easily I’d show you. They blast is rust free inside and out, do repairs if necessary, and treat it with their own patented formula which is NOT epoxy and good for all fuels. Tank looks ready for another 50 years. Good luck with it.

Lots of thoughts on going forward. But in general for now to just rehabilitate the carb’d EA82 that’ll be a bit of a project. Not so bad really but these days we see most folks immediately ditch the old power plant and sometimes as needed the drivetrain too. You have the last of the carb’d engines. In 1987 it’s a split year. You’ll find DL wagons and sedans with the carb until a certain production date. Then they’re SPFI. You can swap blocks and blank off the EGR ports in the exhaust should you want to try making it SPFI. Been ages for me since I’ve had that era but we had so many between parts cars and drivers. Pretty much all my stash is gone from that era. I never had any real trouble with the Hitachi in general from the 70s through the last of them. But those last run carbs have more emission crap and can in my opinion be more finicky. Less manageable. But they’re carbs so it’s always a little bit of luck and black magic. lol EA82 engine parts - the timing belts are hard to find or at least the drivers side which is the one that typically craps out. Oil pump. Reseal kits, you can imagine what it’s like now. There is zero support with very little exception. Carl Porter has some NOS from that era. He might see this here or find him on FB with the usual old school Subaru groups. West coast dealers you might get lucky. This era unfortunately comes with the New Subaru World Order when they made lots of threats to the new wave of dealers to scrap outgoing inventory and damage panels, components, etc so nobody could dumpster dive. So the spares left or much harder to come by than the 70s. It’s a sad story but at least parts lived on. History story: when the Subaru finally caught on here the kind folks at SOA headquarters decided that no longer would their cars be dealt out of mom n pop corner garages and such but they’d have to have a large parcel and big $ to invest. So many mom n pop dealerships closed up and we NOT allowed to sell their parts to the new dealers or back to SOA. Seversl large lots of NOS came to the public. I’m still selling off some of mine. But come the 80s it’s corporate control. Hope you enjoyed the read and enjoy that wagon. Took my young family on many vacations and romps in those. Another several paragraphs of stories there at least. Cheers!

Dam Turbos! :>)

Stop by an auto store and ask them to try reading it with their scanner. If they can, at least you know the wiring is good.

Heyo everybody! Recently joined the Subaru clan back in 2023 with a 6mt Crosstrek I got the manual with the goal of drivetrain modifications (CVTs, Eyesight, and other modern Subaru features don't always lend itself well to modifications). I started with a 2 inch lift and changing tires/wheels to 235/75/r15s and have slowly added upgrades from there. Last summer I put in a dual range 5mt with the 1.447 reduction with a torsen LSD in the front diff. The 6mt came with the diffs with the 4.44 final drive, with the dual range lo gearing it gets me a 23:1 crawl ratio Custom fabrication that I've done to upgrade my rig: rear tire swing out, high clearance front bumper, dual range shift lever with a Polaris side-by-side shift cable. Currently upgrade I'm putting in is a Torq locker in the rear diff, I'm curious to see how that helps with traction My long term plan is to get a divorced tcase setup running. I think this will be fun to do on a modern Subaru.

2001 subaru forester with engine swap from 2005 outback and now having P0341. Its well taken care of by its age

Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation of cylinder washing. I wouldn’t think you’d lose that much compression though unless rings are super shot already. But I could be wrong on that too. I too said it was unlikely all four cylinders would have a stuck valve. This one seems almost the same as removing the spark plugs and cranking. Cheers Bennie

A complete loss of compression suggests it’s mechanical. It would be odd for all cylinders to lose compression, yes, but stranger things happen though. Someone even suggested that the cylinder walls were washed and will come good. I don’t know what that means exactly though - but it is something mechanical that’s the issue. I’d be flushing out the old fuel rather than having the engine eat it. I’d put the highest octane fuel you can get and run that for several tanks, then return to your regular fuel octane rating you use. Cheers

FOLKS! We have liftoff!!! Cleaned the injector with some carb cleaner and reinstalled. Still had some intermittent issues with misfires but I was able to play around with the distributor timing and took the beast for a rip around town last night. Engine is running great! Next up, suspension and brakes.

It'd be interesting to see the temp gauge at 65 MPH versus the last time you drove it. That radiator looks kinda bad, but I took one out of my car that was worse, albeit it was one of the later plastic tank ones. The cooling fins were literally falling out of it. I had a brass radiator welded/repaired like yours is after a wreck in a different vehicle, and that thing lasted nearly 40 years! Some of those guys do great work.

The California Hitachi actually flows pretty well. It gets you several horsepower over the 49-state Carter version. There's also a 49-state Hitachi, but I've never seen one here in California. Unless you pair it with other upgrades, I don't think a carb swap will give noticeable power gains. It is, however, more complicated to work on.

It should run best with the solenoids plugged in. Make sure the green test connector under the dash is not plugged together, then get your 'scope on the o2 sensor line. Keep in mind it's an unheated sensor, and you may need to rev it a little to get it to come to life. It should be switching between around ..2v and .7v every couple seconds. Check at idle, at a constant no-load slight rev, and during gentle driving. It'll always be rich at full throttle, by design. If the o2 sensor is switching at idle, but you have more power with them unplugged, check to make sure the power valve isn't stuck closed. On the topic of power valves, make sure not to damage the gasket around the tiny passage in the middle of the carb when taking the top half off. It's easy to tear, and will smoke and run like total spoob if you do tear it. Also check secondary is opening correctly - it's semi-vacuum-operated and can be sticky. And, of course, clean every single passage and jet in the carb... Also check timing. Rich mixture can hide overly advanced timing. Check timing with vacuum advance unplugged and idle set correctly.

OK thanks. Yes, Fred, you nailed it suggesting the pedal box cracking. The metal tab holding the clutch cable to the pedal assembly definitely sheared. I already sourced another pedal assembly with a stronger design (upgraded from 1983 with this flimsy tab to a 1984 style), I'll get the pedal assembly fixed and the cable rerouted and it sounds like everything should be good. I was real worried that these springs didn't make any sense. Thanks for giving me more confidence the springs are not an issue. I will continue with repair.

Wrapped up the cooling system project this weekend. I ended up going with this radiator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DK323PVN. The fitment of it was good, not excellent, but good. I had to enlarge some holes at the bottom of the fan just slightly so I could get the bolts to line up with it. While I was in there, I replaced both hoses and installed an OEM thermostat and gasket. The real snafu was after I had pulled a vacuum on the system and got fluid in it to install the cap, only to find out the cap that I had ordered for my 84 was way smaller than this radiator could use. I did some research on here and found a GD post here that stated I needed the 82's radiator cap. Found an 82 cap locally and drove it up the road during a rain storm yesterday. I did notice the windshield seal is leaking so gotta get a plan on that, not that I'm going to be driving it much on rainy days anyway but we get quite a bit of rain here in the fall months. After the drive, I noticed my brand new Continental belt had some fraying on the sides of it. I did notice my alternator was quite loud and had planned on eventually replacing it. I threw on a spare that I had that came with the wagon and it was totally dead with nothing on the volt meter. Ordered one from Rockauto this morning.

That's normal operation. The duty solenoids allow extra air to mix into the fuel in the emulsion tubes, leaning the mixture. Off all the time, mixture is too rich and you get black smoke from the exhaust. On all the time, mixture is too lean, you knock and can't go up hills. The ECU varies the on/off duty cycle (hence the name) to adjust the fuel mixture in the middle of this range, until the oxygen sensor is happy, cycling just above and below stoichiometric.

I’ve never seen those devices before. Californian unit? We certainly didn’t get them in Australia! They almost sound like air pumps. Cheers Bennie

Have you checked the timing belt to make sure it’s not broken?

I heard a sizzling and the engine slowly stopped? Like wires shorting out? Slowly stopped? RPM dropped but it was still going? Have you checked for Spark? Put an extra plug in, ground it and turn it over. Nice strong blue spark? If so, add a small amount of fuel into the intake throttle body. Does it start and run for a bit? Is it cranking over normally? What prompted the engine change? Did you do the timing belt or any other maintenance on the engine before the installation?

The hose is the vapor line for the fuel system. Go here for fsm for car: Index of /Auto/Japan/Subaru O.

That mounts to the steering column mount bolt. You can see the marks from the flat aluminium/metal plate “washers” that fit in the same area. Cheers Bennie

That radiator looks due for replacement. P.S. The little powerstack battery works really well in that ratchet.

Drain Pull the trans coolant line and put on temp lines into a drain jug. 1- Fill Trans 2- Start it up and let the trans pump all the old fluid out the line you put on the trans coolant into a gallon jug. 3- When the drain jug is 3/4 full - Turn car off. Repeat 1-3 until the fluid is nice and clean. Put the trans radiator coolant lines back on and start it up. Fill to full COLD. Test drive, check fluid Full to HOT.

Yep, Subaru shows 879996 as the Transmission serial and 424274 for the engine (IIRC stamped into the engine block next to the starter).

Changed the axle seal yesterday on the driver side. Now that I know how to do it, I could definitely do it again. I think having a shop press would making it easier in the future. I do have a Harbor Freight gift card burning a hole in my pocket. You can see the damage on the seal here. Fixed a flashing issue on the turn signals too. Someone stuck too small of a bulb in it. Took it for the longest drive it's had since I got it. Tried to give her some beans to get any junk ran through the carb. 806970020 Adding this for anyone else: CV axle seals/LHD Left/driver side is 806727180 Right/Passenger side is: 806727170 2 o-rings are 806970020

This is a pretty impressive project and it seems to be going very well for you! That transmission mount practically looks oem!

I completely replaced all of the grounds (wire and ends) for all of the grounds I could find in the engine bay. So far, so good. The windows seem to be moving a little quicker as well.

If the socket is still functional, I'd just RTV it to the housing. The plastic is old and just breaks down over time. If it doesn't work, you have a few options. 1: Find a side marker assembly online and use the socket outta that, but again with the plastic being so old, it's a shot in the dark if it's lugs are broken or not. 2: Buy a universal #194 lightbulb socket (Amazon, eBay) and RTV that to the housing. You may get lucky with some searching (I found some Loyale sockets with a Google search along the lines of "Subaru GL 194 lightbulb socket".) Good luck on your search!

Pics are tricky these days here and I’m admittedly lazy about using one of those post it pic sites. But meanwhile the clip you have is p/n 6920 05430 and a quantity of 10 are required per vehicle. Try the west coast dealers. I can’t recall when they ended the wire clips but early through mid 70’s will have them.

A few pictures of fit and clearances of the Trailmax II Pro Front seats from Bestop.

Well, I finally took the plunge after limping my 13" maypop baldies with belts showing along as long as I could, till one did pop. Just didn't want to buy any more 13s. So after many hours of reading about 6-lug swaps here, I decided that would be the cheapest, easiest route. The problem with most of the threads here is they are all about off-roading with lifted cars. There was very, very, little I could find about doing this swap on a stock height car with low-profile tires. What little there was had no pictures anymore because of photosucket. So I took a trip to the only pick-n-pull in the area. Really, a terrible yard, with absolutely no organization whatsoever. You have to go over the whole yard usually, just to start and see what's available. And many of the cars are so packed together, you can't even walk between them. I found one set of 15" steel Isusu 6-lugs in the offset I figured I would need. 60 bucks for the set... pretty happy about that. And they were actually going to charge me extra for the mixmatched, flat, half-bald tires that were on there (??) but they removed them for free. Now, these wheels are well made, but HEAVY!! The center flange that I had to drill was 3/8" steel and the rest of the center was a healthy 1/4". I was gonna weigh them before I got them on the car, but I was too excited to stop and do so. Really, part of me just didn't want to know. I was gonna hit up someone here to send me a front hub, maybe one with stripped splines, to use as a template, but I ended up just taking one of mine off, and bopping two of the studs out. I then made a drill bushing with a nut by first drilling out the threads with my pilot drill bit, and then, with the nut spinning on the pilot bit, I dressed down the OD with a right-angle grinder (shadetree lathe), till it just pushed inside the stud holes. Bolted the hub to the wheels, drilled the pilot through the bushing, then drilled to 1/2", Bob's your uncle. After hours of brooding over tire size, I finally settled on 205/50R15s, which are ever so slightly taller than stock, and filled out beautifully on the 7 inch rims. Wallyworld got me Hankooks for 50 bucks each, and they really look like great tires. Took hardly any weight to balance, which is a good sign for the rims and tires. Fit without issue on the front, but it gets close in a couple of spots. The rear... was going to rub the inner fender lip under compression. I've never rolled any fenders, but I remember an old hot rodder telling me about using a baseball bat to do so. I couldn't find a full-size wooden bat anywhere locally, but I did have a piece of 2" PVC electrical conduit. Started out driving the car forward with the conduit rolling between the tire and body. With a stick and a string on the loose end of the conduit, so I could guide it (would work better with 2 people). Then finished by letting the car roll back down the driveway while levering the conduit down to push the flange up. Worked great. Then, after some cleaning and Krylon, I can't stop looking at it!! Now, I have yet to try and drill a chamfer on the new holes so it will accept a traditional lug nut. For now, I just have regular nuts and lockwashers on the drilled holes, and center the wheels on the car with the factory holes. It's smooth as glass at 80 mph, so I think I can go back now and chamfer the drilled holes, as long as they are perfectly centered around the stud. Or, I could just get some flat-bottom chrome acorn nuts, and leave well enough alone.

This thread is dedicated to all of those who are still running stock 13 inch wheels on their EA. I personally find that the white wagon style wheels are hard to beat for our old cars, and are something that scream 80's subaru. The problem, as we all know, is the decreasing list of brands and sizes available in 13". I have found that the only viable option in my area is the Douglas Xtra Trac in 175/70/13. These are not the best quality, and a size too small for a 4wd ea. I am currently running Cooper Cobra 185/70/13 raised white letters. These are far past their life expectancy, and getting thin. I was very happy when I found them used two summers back but they're getting worn. I did like the 195/70 and the 205/60 for larger options, but those also seem to be out of style. 205/60s can still be had via eBay but are expensive and low quality. Raised white letters seem to be a thing of the past. So, I ask the community, where are you buying your tires, and what size?

I also like running the stock 13". I was able to get a junker brat with 3 sets of tires and rims. About 8 of the tires were still good like brand new, 185x70x13 Some of the last tires I bought were from Les... and was able to get 185x80x13, but didn't notice any real difference, My BRAT handles real well on 185x70. I don't like that these tires are passenger car and also only 1 ply sidewall.

No sense in rebuilding a 48mm block and crank. Trade it out for a '99+ block and crank - get back the 52mm rod journals and the improved #5 thrust bearing. You can use the 25D pistons and rods if you like. GD

I've run clicking axles till they blew up also. While that took quite a while (almost a year, bit less than 50,000 miles), my car is 4wd, which means when the axle went, I just pulled the lever and kept on running. That's not an option for you, being a 2wd car. So what I'd do, were it me, is I'd run it as is until you get paid, then go down to Napa (or Schuck's or Autozone or Parts PLus, or whoever else) and get a lifetime warranty shaft. As far as actually doing the swap goes, it really isn't hard, but takes time. I can do mine in about 45 mins each (fronts). Here's what you need. 1) Sturdy floor jack 2) Sturdy jack stands 3) 1/2" drive breaker bar 4) 1/2" drive 19mm socket 5) 1/2" drive 36mm socket 6) needle nose pliers 7) flat head screwdriver 8) 1/2" drive 14mm socket or 14mm wrench 9) 1/2" drive 17mm socket or 17mm wrench 10) 10mm wrench 11) Hammer 12) small drift punch Ok...Step 1: Jack the car up and support it on the jack stands. DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT TRYING THIS WITHOUT ENSURING THE CAR IS SECURELY SUPPORTED! Step 2: use the breaker bar and 19mm socket to remove the lug nuts and wheel/tire. Step 3: use the pliers to remove the cotter pin in the axle and castle nut Step 4: use the breaker bar and 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. Step 5: use the 14mm wrench to remove the bolt(s) holding the brake caliper to the bracket. USe a coat hanger or piece of string to hold the caliper out of the way without hanging it by its hose. step 6: use the 17mm wrench to remove the bolts holding the bracket to the steering knuckle. step 7: use the 10mm wrench to remove the bolts holding the dust plate to the steering knuckle. step 8: crawl under the car and locate the roll pin in the Double Offset Joint of the axle you want to remove. One end will be flush, the other will have a divot. Rotate the axle to locate the divoted end. step 9: use the hammer and small drift punch to drive the roll pin out of its hole taking care not to drive it ALL the way out. They're hard to find once the go SPROING. step 10: turn the steering wheel all the way to the lock in one direction. step 11: use the hammer to drive the axle stub out of the wheel bearing as far as you can. Take care not to hit the wheel bearing. Once the axle stub has been removed from the wheel bearing, the DOJ will slide off of the stub of the tranny and the axle is out of the car. step 12: slide the DOJ of your new axle onto the stub of the tranny, ensuring to line up the holes in the DOJ cup with those in the tranny stub. The easiest way to do this is to ensure that the divoted side of the new DOJ cup is in the same position as the old one. step 13: insert the end of the axle stub into the wheel bearing. Use the hammer to tap the steering knuckle while you press the axle into the bearing. Once you've got enough thread through the bearing, it may be easier to use a large fender washer and the castle nut to pull the new axle through the bearing. Perform steps 1-8 in reverse order to reassemble. I'm fairly certain that's pretty much everything, but I did all that out of my head, so, YMMV, etc. Assume about $70 each for axles pluse core and tax. You shouldn't need a mahcine shop unless you are replacing wheel bearings at the same time. Wheel bearing are pressed in and out, so you either need a machine shop or a press for those. Be advised, though, that the axles fit VERY snugly through the bearings, so its going to turn into a wrestling match to get the axles in and out of them.