Leaderboard

Reposting here as this is where it belongs* Long time lurker. I’ve been building out my ea82 Gl for a a while and I thought I should start a build thread. here it is in Baja Mexico! so here the build so far: -4inch body lift(6inch currently) -ej25dohc -poptop -crustom ifs (I bent one of the original lca) -modded rear seats so the sit flat -projector bulb retrofit/angle eyes -custom aluminium bumper Currently in the middle of building a vlsd rear diff. which requires completely dismantling the vlsd and ea82 diffs, to the point of pressing out the threaded inserts in the spider gears.

My 14' okie gator airboat. Powered by an ej20 turbo, has a 2:1 belt drive with a 10 blade warp drive prop. It does great out here on the st johns river, just got done test driving it for about 3 days in a row. I have a few questions for you guys but ill wait till tmrw. Till then, heres the boat ! Ill take some vids tmrw too.

New to the subaru world, ive always played with small and big block chevys, and aircraft engines. Well now my newest ride is a 14' fiberglass okie gator hull, with an ej20 turbo motor. Im not sure what year, maybe you guys can help me out. Its had a 2:1 belt reduction, because you can only turn a prop at 3100 rpm max, so 3100 rpms on a little ej wont do much. So we reduct them 2:1 so you can turn 6000 rpm max without over spinning the prop. Just a little something different for your forums!

Cool, it's way too far for me to visit but, at least, I think Gillman enjoys a decent reputation.

@1 Lucky Texan www.subarupartsource.com at Gillman Subaru North in Houston.

www.subarugenuineparts.com is no longer active, Jaime now runs the online parts department for a dealership in Texas. I use a combination of my local dealership, RockAuto and Amazon to find the best prices. Sometimes Google Shopping for aftermarket parts like StopTech replacement rotor rings, etc.

Update: FerGloyale's assessment was correct. The 'lo' filament (i.e. the brake lights) on the bulbs were indeed out and I now have new bulbs in and everything in working order. I am honestly very angry with the Subaru dealership in Salem...I asked them at least twice about it after I got pulled over the first time, and was told by the "handler" that takes your money that the tech reported that everything checked out. So basically I went without tail lights for at least a YEAR! Needless to say I will no longer be using their service department.

i used Legacy tophats (ended up buying new KYBs, but started with the stock ones), but put 98 forester struts & springs on my 95 L even sitting on the stock 14" tires, it gave nearly 2" of added height...

Buggah! Figured out why I couldn't read the 93C46 - turns out it's available in this funky alternate "rotated" pinout - it's not shown in the ST datasheet (that's whose part is in here), but it is shown in the Atmel datasheet, and that's the version that Alpine used (for whatever ungodly reason). It's a packaging option that's only available in the SOIC (not the DIP), so (of course) Data I/O only supports it in their SOIC socket. Which I don't have - I only have the DIP and PLCC sockets on the Unisite, which is why I mounted the SOIC on a DIP adapter. So now I've made another adapter to rewire all the pins and it's reading like it oughta. Cool.

Most has been said. Brakes and air filter should be priority #1 Tie rod end will either be a little inconvenience ranging to a genuine safety risk depending how bad it was. If it was more than just a little sign of wear, they should have refused to do an alignment on it. If you trust the shop to take care of you, it's probably just something to think about in the next year or so. Also possible that they don't care about your safety, or the fact that doing an alignment on a car with bad steering components is a waste of time and money. The leaks aren't an issue, as long as you don't run out of fluids, and don't park on any nice concrete. So make sure to know how to check the relevant fluids (engine oil, transmission fluid, and power steering fluid, in this case), and check them every gas stop. The only exception is if there's a lot of oil getting onto the spark plug wires. Pull the ends out of the heads (should be fairly easy to do that), and look for oil on there. If there's a lot, that can be an issue for the ignition system. Change the rear diff gear oil. I think it's about a quart (have 2 handy) of 80w90 GL-5 gear oil (the most common stuff you can find). Buy a little transfer pump that'll fit on the gear oil bottle. Jack up the car, use a 1/2" breaker bar to pull the 2 plugs (upper fill plug first, if you drain the oil, and then can't get the fill plug on, you're screwed, although if they checked the fluid, they would have just had the plug out). Once the old fluid drains out, put the lower plug in, and pump new oil in the top plug until it overflows. Then put the top plug in and your done.