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Late update here, but I've been doing a lot of traveling recently and only today got this problem solved. I thought I'd update here for the sake of closure. The flywheel pilot bearing had partially come apart; all the ball bearings were still in place but the 'side' wall that covers the bearings was missing and a fragment of inner bearing race had broken off and wedged itself between the friction disc and pressure plate, preventing the two parts from being able to move independently, effectively making the friction disc and pressure plate into a single joined part. Therefore my symptom of pushing the clutch pedal, and seeing the cable move the top of the release fork, but it never actually releasing and letting me shift. I had a new clutch kit on hand today because I wasn't sure what I'd find in there, so I replaced the shattered pilot bearing and threw the new friction disc / pressure plate in as well, and she drives beautifully now.

Thanks for posting back.

Thought I'd make a thread for my new Subaru. Gertie has the honour of being the second L series touring wagon I've owned. She was named by the previous owner, and is a 1989 NZ new Subaru Omega GL touring wagon, 5 speed dual-range. My first was an NZ new 1987 Leone GTX Turbo, 3AT pt4wd. Unfortunately she rusted out back in 2014, terminal firewall cancer. Since then I've had a Forester, a Vitara and I currently also own an r50 JDM Nissan Terrano. I saw this car in person several months ago, and strongly considered asking the owner if they'd be willing to sell. When it popped up on Facebook marketplace at an extremely reasonable price, I had to buy it, especially considering I was heading down to Queenstown that weekend regardless. So I made contact with the owner, and they arranged to take it for a wof, which it clean sheeted! They also kindly put 6 months registration on for me. I went to pick it up, and lo and behold the seller is a nurse that I was working with only several months ago! She and her husband (who is sadly terminally ill) had owned it since 1992, when they purchased it off a banker in Mosgiel. Only sold it because he couldn't drive it anymore and it had been sitting for a year. Condition is generally good. The metalwork is near perfect, no rust whatsoever besides a few minor stone chips. Interior is pretty average, dash is good but seats, door trims and headliner need recovering. Mechanically it's great, little bit of hesitation around 2500 rpm under moderate throttle but better with WOT and above 3000. Slight lifter tick from time to time, not too bad. Third has a somewhat worn synchro. Suspension, brakes, steering, tyres etc all great. Smallish oil leaks. You wouldn't know it has done 443,000 km... Regular maintenance is key I suppose! Full service history for the last 30 years, oil and filter every 5000 km etc. Overall extremely pleased for the price I paid. I could sell it tomorrow for half what I paid again. Only thing I've done is replaced the battery as it was from 2011 and couldn't hold a charge.

Excited enthusiast from Maine looking forward to talking to a few others with the same weird love for dl's/gl's. Just picked up a new project, 69 360 with 16 miles on it. Not sure it was every sold. Sweet little project and a way weird car. Either way. Hello from Maine

I joined the USMB about 4 years ago after purchase of my 1983 Brat GL. I wanted to install 14" wheels, but not a lot of options. On the USMB I found that Peugeot wheels would fit my Brat and aquired 4 of them at local tire dealer. I just got tires mounted and what to do with the center hole. A friend of mine has a 3D printer and offered to print a custom set for me. After a couple of adjustments he came up with the perfect solution. Installed them today with silicone adhesive and they look great. If interested Terry can make a custom set for you in various colors, logos or almost any insert.

Hey guys, Joined about a month ago after having bought an EA81 hatch. Because of my rekindled love of old Subaru's I joined some facebook groups and happened to find this 86 Brat for sale. I've basically wanted to own a Brat forever, so I couldnt resist. So far I have resealed the oil pump and installed a new front crank seal, fixed the fan blower motor, installed a new dist cap and rotor, and put the original wheels back on with new trim rings. Planning to do the oil pan and valve cover gaskets maybe this weekend. I'd like to add jump seats at some point but otherwise Ill keep it stock. I have the original window sticker which is pretty cool. It has no rot and almost no rust, which is amazing since its always been in VA and PA. Interior is original and in excellent shape. Paint is original too. Only has 80k on the odo and runs great. Gets alot of attention and someone already offered to buy it, but Im keeping it.

got this stuff from my local hobby shop - it is meant for building balsa planes, but it has worked great on everything I have tried it on to date, including a styrofoam plane, metal & multiple types of plastics. fixed a pair of scissors recently with it - the blades were coming loose & moving around due to cracked plastic. they don't move around anymore. it does not take a lot either. as you can see levels in the bottles.. and I have used this stuff a LOT. simple 1:1 mix ratio makes it a snap to mix up, and yes, it is pretty much set in 5 minutes

Congratulations! You've now made your cylinder temps higher, your oil more acidic, and your exhaust dirtier! Oh and yer intake air will now have lots more grit in it and be more likely to suck in water! So Much Winning!

This is the Newest member of my Family: Mr. Honey a Golden Cocker Spaniel who also Loves my "BumbleBeast"

Couldn't hurt to change the oil and I'd check inside the car where the cable hooks to the pedal. It is known to crack in that location and can cause the issue you describe.