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Este es mi Oldschool

I cant get a straight answer on that. But the first step would be to unplug it then replug it in and see if thats enough action to clean the contacts.

Excited enthusiast from Maine looking forward to talking to a few others with the same weird love for dl's/gl's. Just picked up a new project, 69 360 with 16 miles on it. Not sure it was every sold. Sweet little project and a way weird car. Either way. Hello from Maine

And people who want an answer. I probably know the answer to your question. But I still don't know your question. Good luck!

is this a turbo equipped model? has this happened with other drivers? what is the history of the car? new to you? , wrecks, repairs, general condition etc. anything odd with the brake pedal's position when this happens? does the car have a carpet or weather tech mat in the driver's floorboard? is it secure?

^^^ what he said There may be some kind of calibration required if the unit is replaced - maybe the FSM has info on that?

Its the G sensor under the center console in the center of the car. It measures the acceleration/deceleration of the car. Its reading high, you did something to scare all the G's out of it.

"Still have to cut the remains of the bearings off. I am a bit stuck, pardon the pun, on now removing the stub shaft from the axle since after 30 years together they seem well accustomed to staying that way. Any ideas? I have thought about cutting the axle where it bells out but I don't know if that would give me the access I want to then press the stub out? " https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168762-saving-rust-seized-ea-rear-axle-stubs-cvs/?tab=comments#comment-1398686

Hit Craigslist in your area. there are usually some for sale within a hundred miles. Car-part.com is a god way to find some cross bars too. This one includes the cross bars , is for an 05 forester with bike attachments for $65.00. Not sure that is a fit. Just an example. https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/d/new-berlin-subaru-forester-roof-rack/6847447096.html

I think there pretty much the same just different gear ratios much higher than the older one

craigmcd, Be aware that the high mount brake light gasket is known to leak water into the tailgate light area. I think it was my 2012 that had that issue, an easy fix to replace the gasket with automotive dumdum. You really don't need to pull the entire headliner down to check those drain tubes. Pull the sun visors, overhead assist handles and the A, B and C pillars (you'll need a Torx 55 bit for the front seat upper seat belt anchor points), and you'll need to pull down the door weather seals to about half way. Then, keeping your hands clean, you can pull the sides of the headliner down far enough to see your drain tubes front and rear, and make any repairs needed. The entire headliner doesn't need to come out.

This is a sunroof car then ? If you go to remove the headliner be aware they used Velcro in places near the sun roof. I recommend trying air pressure in the drain tubes before pulling your headliner. Also headliner's stain very easy from dirty fingers … use gloves.

If you're current axles' shafts are still intact, you can replace the CV cups and joints with inner joints from EA82 or even 90-94 Legacy rear axles. Takes some spring clip pliers and a CV banding tool. BUt it's really the on;y option. This is why I am not wheeling my EA81 wagon right now. Can't find any new axles.

Found a way to save these hard-to-come-by pieces from death by rust. Start by removing rear axle & seized stub axle as a unit from rear trailing arm. Hammer out with block of wood & BFH or dead blow hammer Or my favorite though some will object - a ball peen in stub end & 4 lb drilling hammer. Next remove axle shaft from inner CV/DOJ cup. DOJs are easiest. Boot, outer lock ring, then pull everything else as one. Swab out old grease with rags. CVs require a few more steps, like rocking inner race & cage to one side, removing 2 balls, back the other way then last 2. Then work cage & inner race out - they do come out. Notice hammer marks on CV. Futile attempts to get the bugger off the stub. Note difference in how cup plugs are installed. CVs - plug hollow side up. DOJs - hollow side down. Use an awl to punch a starter hole in cup plug then screw a 1 inch or longer #10 sheet metal screw in which will lift the plug out of the recess. This exposes the end of stub axle. You might have to give seized parts a good soaking overnight with Kroil or other penetrating spray before press work. Install bearing clamshell around DOJ/CV just above dust shield, then place this in between heavy duty plates in 20 ton press. Use 4-6 inch piece of 5/8-3/4 inch round stock with ends squared up on end of stub to press with. Not too long or it may become angled & then bend easily. Plug for swagoffroad products: http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-MACHINED-ARBOR-PRESS-PLATES-PAIR_p_7.html Pump press until either stub starts moving or feels like all 20T pressure is there. Rap on outside of cup a little with hammer to jar it. Helps align things for removal. Relieve pressure & turn cup some. Rinse & repeat until stub comes loose. Did this for alexbuoy & one of his took everything my old Enco press could muster. Finally came loose with a loud bang causing everything on press to jump. Bead blast or wire brush stubs. Hammer holes in cup plugs flat then soft solder holes shut. Clean up flux on plugs. Install with Permatex No. 1 or similar. Remember DOJs - cup plugs down. CVs - cup plugs up Apply anti-seize to splines after re-installing in rear arms. Both ends. Don't forget the rubber washers on short ends of stub axles. Hope this helps save a few axles & stubs in the future. Parts for EA cars are getting scarce.

There's a Yaw/roll sensor under the center console IIRC. That may be what this code refers to, but I'm not positive of that. If the lamp works, but isn't normally lit, and the ABS system works normally, I wouldn't worry about it.