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Excited enthusiast from Maine looking forward to talking to a few others with the same weird love for dl's/gl's. Just picked up a new project, 69 360 with 16 miles on it. Not sure it was every sold. Sweet little project and a way weird car. Either way. Hello from Maine

Replace the compressor fitting o-rings. Pull a vacuum and charge it. The vacuum will allow you to put in enough refrigerant to get the pump running so you can add the rest. You can usually get 16+ oz in by pulling the system into a solid vacuum. GD

That is one clean L series! Sparkyboy, those are hubcaps and generally the touring wagon is NA. The GT is the turbo variant, that’s a JDM model that might be found in NZ with their import policies. Kiwi GL: love that colour, although I’m a biased with my DL L series being the same if not a little lighter in colour. I’d go a touring wagon but it’d interfere with my flat roof rack setup I run with offroad - plus I’ve got all the touring wagon features in my L except the carpet floor. Kms are like age - just a number! Enjoy the L Cheers Bennie

If that is true, well then you need not worry. The girls will stay far away from you. jk

Wow bro, Gertie is extra clean! Cool that you kept the name. Congrats my friend i am quite envious that high roof is a rare bird! And on the 86 motion alloys? Extra dope! Touring wagon is turbo yeah? The dual range is the best 4wd box of the ones i have tried, including the b3 audi quattro with diff lock (amazing) and the awd in the e30 bmw 325ix (Great). Subaru awd (meh) and bmw e53 awd (awful) Of course the ej swap i did helps some, or can be absolutely critical, but a 3rd gen L body with enough power in 4hi is faster than those high end german sports cars in the snow. And on pavement or gravel these cars are just light enough to do a proper Scandinavian flick if you leave her in 2wd. Hankook makes excellent 13" snow tires. Enjoy man! Oh and subarus are supposed to tick when cold. It's called the tick of death! Gertie us certain to draw a crowd at the next car show!

you have a few ways to proceed but, there's an excellent chance any refrigerant you add now will leak right out. many folks find that o-rings on the suction and discharge hose-ends at the compressor need replacing - sometimes also, new 'cores' in the 2 ports can help. Use of a vacuum pump can also help find leaks as well as helping remove any moisture in the system. If you have a pinhole in the condenser or a leaky hose, that might be tricky to find and use of fluorescent dye can help with that. I bought gauges and I have borrowed vacuum pumps from the parts stores but really, for the hassle, I wish I had just taken my cars to a pro. I may still take my WRX which needs a/c work now. The system likely needs close to 10-12 oz. to get the low pressure switch to turn-on the compressor. Of course there can be other problems; bad a/c relays, bad wiring/connectors, slipping a/c clutches......there are a lot of failure points with the a/c. you might look through here for some help; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html

En la actualidad se ha masificado el uso de la marca para donde vallas o en el lugar que estes veras vastantes subaru

Nipper, Its been a few years since we've crossed paths. Glad to be able to possibly help out. I've done a lot of these switches over the years, to clean the contacts and to replace the bulbs inside. Do an eBay search for "2005 outback power seat switch", and then look at the various pictures that are posted. The side view pictures show that there are two spring clips, one at each bottom corner, on each side of the switch. Use a thin bladed knife to pry the side of the switch body away from the prongs that stick out through the side openings while pulling the bottom of the switch down away from them. Then do the other side of the switch the same way. THEN put the entire switch assembly along, with your hands, inside a clear, large Zip Lock bag and then pull the bottom away from the top assembly (the bag ensures that any small spring loaded interior switch components won't end up lost on the garage floor. Been there, done that, and had to buy another switch when I couldn't find the parts). Usually you can clean the contacts on the circuit board with one of those large pink erasers we all used in public school, or with electrical contact cleaner spray. Once clean, just push the switch back together until it clicks at each corner, test it, and reinstall. Good Luck!

i've had good results welding plastic bits back together with a plastic soldering iron. picked up one at harbor freight, it has a triangle tip and seems to lower heat point than standard soldering irons. I've fixed door cards, headlight tabs, window switch panels, etc... it took some time fiddling with techniques until you get to feel on how to melt plastic just enough to weld and not too much that it becomes brittle. if you get the hfreight kit, the black strips they supply is hot glue and not plastic. you'll have to get a separate plastic rod welding pack or just use whatever spare plastic bits you have as welding material. i've found the black abs plastic from old dell lcd monitor covers to be really good for this.

I'm finding there is a pretty massive EA-following in Chile of all places. It doesn't surprise me though, when I last visited in 2001 or so there were WRXs and Forester2s running around everywhere!

I've got the carter weber 1bbl on mine- all of the feedback mechanisms jammed up and stopped working, so I broke off the 'altitude adjuster' which is the round plastic thing on the top right of the carb which actuates the top flapper. I just unplugged everything else from it. Bend the pieces in there in such a way that it does not "lock" itself in position, and attach an aftermarket choke cable to the thing that used to be hooked to the temperature/thermo spring inside the plastic housing (the gold looking part, not the silver one that gives you high idle). (I broke my housing to get it out- just make sure you don't get plastic pieces in the carb). I used a throttle lock kit from a 4x4 store, but you could probably get a choke cable from a tractor store or something too. Now I have a manual choke, which pulls on the altitude adjuster flapper of the carb. I even put a little throttle sping on it to pull it to the full open position, so when I pull on the cable, it closes it. It is a major hack, but the car idles great, starts in the cooler weather, and the mixture can be adjusted at will. I've found that it pings if the flapper is 100% open, so I run it just a tad closed. I realize that this is super redneck, but the weber carb kit is not without its problems- like the coolant leak problems, the clearance issues, etc etc. Also, the weber is $400, plus we would need to change the intake manufold to use it.

I Did a Short Video that day, of my Mercury Starting after Eight Months, you can see it Here: Let me Know What do you Think about it... Kind Regards.