Leaderboard

the upper panel unscrews from the rest of the panel. It is easy to wrap the upper panel in new vinyl. Seen it done many times. choose yer color and go for it.

Well no, obviously not those lamps, but damn near everything else, and not just the lamps either. Most car companies these days are just vehicle assemblers. Very, very few of the parts are manufactured in house.

Premiers go more with this body..

Wouldn’t matter. They’d still look small. I’m not sure if it’s those “dress” trims that make them look smaller. I’m having difficulty trying to work out if the premiers are 14 inch rims or just 13s. Either way, it’s the premiers for my vote (again!). It’s kind of like asking: black 8 spoke sunnies: or white 5 spoke scorpions: For me it’s a no brainer... Cheers Bennie

Hey guys, I'm grabbing a sensor from RockAuto to swap with AZ since they charge over $30 more for the part (they are actually cheaper on the fuel pump though), and I saw this part https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10353284&cc=1358210 There's your replacement surge filter cap, complete with O-ring and even a fresh gasket, for 30 bucks. The part description on Amazon even says it has a stronger cap due to the original ones breaking: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-902-438-Housing-Repair-Select/dp/B07KG7K8GB Think I'll scoop that part with the sensor as well.

tldr; It was the oxygen sensor. The car started losing power again on the freeway, I pulled off and it died. Did it three times in warm weather street traffic. I tested the spark plug wires' resistance in ohms at piping hot temperature while waiting for the vehicle to cool down a bit so it would become driveable. I later tested their resistance while cold, and also tested the resistance of a new set. Since I couldn't find the information online, perhaps someone will find this a good reference. Here were the numbers on a set of NGK 8691s: # Old Hot Old Cold New Cold 1 4,150 4,120 3,820 3 4,210 4,180 4,080 2 4,990 4,950 4,790 4 5,280 5,210 5,120 The spark plug wires' average increase in resistance due to high temperature was close to 1% of total ohms. Once the car was driveable, I made it to AZ and picked up my Russian parts roulette set of NGK spark plug wires, Delphi fuel pump, AZ brand ignition coil, and a Denso oxygen sensor. Got a wally world code reader after that; no pending codes. Couple more sputters on the street. Pick N Pull was next, which wasted my time for used parts. The catalytic converters all get snipped out of the cars, along with the oxygen sensor that screws into it. Also, at the end of the day, they apparently no longer send the tractor around with a horn to call closing time. Instead, they just close the register. I was waiting to hear the closing horn and never heard it. I got there three or four minutes after the hour, and was told leave the part and come back tomorrow to pay. Maybe that's what they need to do thanks to some tweaky agro locals who ignore the horn, but FFS at least play one for the people who won't. Well I got lucky when I played parts roulette. I was hoping to install one part at a time and test for resolution of the problem, but at this point I was really tired and it was late. I opted to install two parts at a time and then test. I went with the spark plugs and oxygen sensor together for my first attempt. The old plugs didn't seem bad, but they didn't make a great solid connection on the ignition coil, either, and I didn't want to install expensive parts before cheap ones. The oxygen sensor I decided to install after first searching how often to change them, since it's not listed in the maintenance section of the Chilton. Most said 100k miles or so. I read deeper and came across this gem of a sentence: Boom. That's basically all my symptoms, with the caveat that they happen when the car is hot and go away when it is cool. Loss of power was followed by rough idle, then sputtering and stalling. Misfires happened while attempting to restart the engine. This cycle would most often happen under engine load at full temperature, or at low RPMs, and especially when trying to accelerate hard under engine load at low RPMs. Also I can't say that I noticed it being crazy with the gas. It was doing 25 mpg highway and almost 20 in urban traffic, which I figured was good for an old 2.5, but maybe it's improved a lot now. I'll keep an eye on it. The sensor went in, and I test drove the car last night and today. No sign of the problem. I swear I've heard before that the oxygen sensor doesn't work reliably until it is at operating temperature, and thus doesn't factor into ECU engine management until the car is warmed up. Maybe that would explain why it performed better when cool. Or perhaps the failure is due to the repeated heating and extra resistance present when hot. The sensor pigtail was covered in greasy engine crud as well. I have no clue how old it was at the time. The inside of the connector was bright orange; perhaps factory? I did a resistance test on the old and new oxygen sensors before installing them. Looking inside the electrical connector for the sensors, with the side with two plastic grooves facing up, I numbered the terminals as follows: ___|_|___ __| 1 2 |__ | 3 4 | They had identical readings; only 1.5 ohms of resistance could be detected between terminals 1 and 3. No other resistance measurement registered on my meter's maximum reading range of 2 million ohms. Perhaps it would have been different had I read the old one while it was hot instead of cold. The only visible difference between them was the old one had grime on the wire lead and old one looked frosty white too: I don't know how to test these oxygen sensors any better than I tested the spark plug wires. Nothing in the Chilton about how to test them. Couldn't find a guide online for free; Subaru wants you to pay a $35 subscription to access their service manual. All said and done I got lucky. This could have just as easily have been the fuel pump like you guys were saying. I am guessing the differentiating factor was how it happened only when the vehicle was hot. I will probably do the fuel pump and that strainer cap's O-ring while I'm at it too, just to avoid another problem. Cheapest I can find a Viton 928 ring for is $8 for a ten pack on eBay; maybe there's a place I could find just one but I'm not sure. Well that's my report. Thanks again for all the help guys.

Thanks for asking and thanks for all the tips from the others. Business hasn't gone yet. I learned once again that life doesn't stop happening just because you have an engine apart. The local dealer didn't order my parts for a few days so I lost a weekend. I got a mis-marked aftermarket heater hose (twice) from an online source (not their fault) and then had to go back to the dealer. Then, I had to visit an aging (almost 96 years old) relative the following weekend. This weekend, something came up and I have to go in to work. I've lost three weekend since I started this task. I'm just full of excuses, aren't I? It took me 5 weeks total elapsed time to R&R my Accord engine. It's looking like I won't be breaking my record this time with the Subaru, even though pulling the engine is a breeze compare to the Accord. I've been picking off little things in the evening when I can - cleaning the block, replacing the separator plate, replacing the throwout bearing, resealing the oil pan, etc. but even then, other aspects of life take most of my evenings from me. I'll get there. I have hot spares in my fleet so I can afford to have the Legacy down for a while.

I second this. Permier is more Vortex, 8 spoke sunnies is more L series Cheers Bennie

Premier

Check if there's a rollpin to punch out. If so it's a female axle and stubs on trans like pictured above, no oil spill.

nevermind i took the plastic end off and it pulled out after that then clamped it there and put the plastic end back on it.

Take some pictures and check the hose to compressor fittings as there were several different sizes. 90-94 I think were the same. Check www.car-part.com as well.

Limited use here too.

I have followed this very entertaining thread (which I started) and really enjoyed all the comments. I am on my 6th Subaru, and will continue to watch for the right Brat or Baja - but would buy the Brat first just for the fun of it. In regard to the jump seats: Back in high school, circa 1978-80, I owned a ‘67 El Camino SS with a factory 396. I skateboarded a lot, and several times drove with 2-3 kids riding in the back (no seats) from Colorado Springs to Boulder to go to the only skate pool in Colorado. It is a good 2 hours each way on the Interstate. Now, as a father, I would never let my kids take that trip in the back. Different times. We drank out of the garden hose too. Thanks for all the comments. C

yesterday after work, drilled some water-drain holes in L tail light assembly and cleaned-off some corrosion on a socket, on the 03. Installed iBrightstar LED brake/park combo 'bulbs' in both sides. need to do some maintenance and repairs on both cars. It's been rainy on the weekends so, maybe I can do one small thing afterwork for a day or 2. Might take this Fri. off.

Picked up and installed 87 XT seats in my 91 RS.. the stock seats had to go and I'm trying to get to as close to an XT6 as I can, just trying to re live my high school days lol.