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The main fusible link in the under-hood fuse box is blown. GD

Very sad to see a Subaru in that condition.

How about here? https://bellingham.craigslist.org/pts/d/old-subaru-parts/6860586560.html

Truly excellent work Giles, I am thoroughly impressed! Keep it up man!

All I'll say is I made 10-20k Jeep's look retarded with my 81gl with welded rear and this

Since you probably have the engine out of the car, I would also replace the water pump, all timing belt idlers and timing belts. Because they are a pain to change them out once the engine is back in the car.

I would not split the case. I would replace the Oil Pump Seals (kit available from subaru still for ~$50) Repalce Crank seals front an back. New HGs Resael oil pan with "the Rgiht Stuff" or other quality RTV. Throw the cork gasket away. MAYBE pull the pistons and replace rings. But again, there is not gonna be any real benefit to splitting the case to go after rod bearings.

A lot of that is going to depend on what is still available. Oil pumps are NLA from Subaru. There are some hoarded NOS ones around, but getting somebody to let go of one is challenging. If it didn't have any issues before with oil consumption or an obvious knock, I would just replace the head gaskets and roll with it. The pros will chime in with some better insight shortly I know. Good luck! Dan

Some of the shock parts including the longer bodies and shafts. Pictures of the longer shocks installed on the 2002 as requested. I should have gotten some pictures of one of these shocks compared to a stock one but I was in a hurry. Reservoirs are just zip tied in place temporarily so they don't bounce around. I'll mount them more securely. Right now it's a complicated procedure to install these. Hard to explain why without seeing it but the spring collars have to be threaded down, shocks have to go in reservoir first from the bottom, collars threaded up, shocks charged, springs installed, and then bolt the shocks in. I'm already planning on making new brackets to mount the tops of the shocks so I can just slide them down through the floor with the springs on.

Yeah - usually this means the whole mess goes in the f*ckit bucket. GD

For oil pan, trans pan, I use three bond 1217H in a caulk gun tube, which is fairly affordable on Amazon. I find it easier to use than ultra grey in the toothpaste tube. Apply and immediately follow the recommended bolt pattern. Make several passes around until all are torqued to final value.

if it has the metal plate, reseal it at the very least.

Some of the pop top construction used the roof as a mold. Trying to make it look like there is no poptop! Here is the wood Frame for the shell and the metal frame for the car with the lift mechanism, befor install.

Oh man , you’re going to leave us in suspense over what was in that “other box”. lol glad it worked out

This is my "new to me" 1992 Subaru Loyale. 168k original miles. We just got my handicap hand controls installed and I drove it for the first time. I love it so far.

Unless it just needs a reseal and head surfacing, it's not feasible to rebuild one. You can't get the parts to do so effectively. Primarily if the oil pump is scored to rat $hit then you cannot get a replacement and probably the bottom end is shot anyway. So inspect the oil pump - if it's good then reseal the engine and run it as-is. Rebuilding is no longer feasible. And keep this in mind when using the engine also - replacement parts are non existent. Better to just get an EJ22. GD