Leaderboard

Chosen engine source: JDMracingmotors of Montreal JDM Legacy JDM 2000-2002 3.0L H6 EZ30 Engine video of compression test on youtube. all over 180 psi parts list from rock auto Stabilizer Bar Bushing MOOG K200635 pack of 2 $7 Front Stabilizer Bar Link MOOG K80693 #20420AA003 pair $27 ac delco oil filter $4 air filter $7 fuel filter $16 serpentine accessory belt ac delco $17 Screw on trans filter beck arnley $5 PCV valve $6 beck arnley fuel injector refurb kit (four seals) x6 $5 ea (from dealer $36) Pre-existing RH fuel rail vapor odor- could be hoses or seals at injector Retain fuel rails from stock, due to JDM having water-dirt contamination from weather exposure. Swap fuel injectors from JDM intake to stock intake. Replace all fuel rail hoses and filter hoses Raybestos 3/8" magnetic trans filter inline at transmission cooler add-on hose ID PCV hose 0.4" valve cover 0.5" head to intake 8mm fuel line 8mm (5/16") evaporator 1/4" power steering return 0.4" 3/8" Dealer parts Trans seal(s) leaking at CV axle right side, left side also? Replace both axle seals and o-rings. leaking oil at trans, suspect from seal(s) retainer ring, o-ring x2 806984040 $2 ea retainer ring, oil seal 806730031 $5 RH verify side retainer ring, oil seal 806730032 $5 LH verify side front differential oil drain plug gasket 803926090 PCV hose to valve 11815AB083 $37 valve cover gasket R 13270AA104 $25 valve cover gasket L 13272AA104 $25 valve cover spark plug gaskets x6 13293AA051 $8 ea exhaust manifold gasket x2 44011AE040 $6 ea exhaust donut gasket 44011AE031 $9 exhaust flange bolt at donut x2 44059AA010 $3 ea exhaust spring at donut x2 44044AA010 $4 ea exhaust flange bolt nut at donut x2 802008270 $2 ea exhaust flange bolt at muffler x2 010510307 $2 ea exhaust gasket at muffler 44011AE01A $3 exhaust flange bolt at muffler 902350001 qty 2 $2 water pipe hose, right angle, top, RH front 99078AA090 $6 water pipe hose, dog leg, top, front, LH 99078AA120 $8 water pipe hose, RA, throttle body, top, RH rear 807607251 $5 hose, water pipe hose, throttle body, top, 21204AA681 $10 hose, water pump bypass, at Tstat, straight, 807615030 $10 hose, water, at oil cooler, right angle, 99078AA110 $8 hose, water, at oil cooler, straight, 807611060 $4 hose, water, at Tstat, right angle, 807611071 $5 HOSE-HEATER,OUTLET, 72421AE02A $15 HOSE-HEATER,INLET, 72411AC020 $15 hose, vacuum, Intake manifold, right side, front, 99071AB361 $4 reuse: hose, vacuum, Intake, left side, front, 99071AB280 $13 or purchase generic hose such as: High Performance Silicone Vacuum Hose - 5 feet - 5/16" ID (.3125"|8mm) - Blue https://www.ebay.com/itm/263495230935?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true parts to refurb torque converter Housing OIL SEAL 806750060 Price:$6.51 Input Shaft O RING 806920070 Price:$0.84 Oil Pump Shaft RING-SEAL,A 31361AA000 Price:$8.74 Oil Pump Shaft CIRCLIP-INNER 805343020 Price:$2.43 Low pressure side power steering hose from hard pipe near airbox to plastic reservior is cracked. Power steering low pressure HOSE-RETURN 34611AE14A two types, either $17 or $70. Unsure which one I have. Replace with Gates power steering return hose. 3/8" ID. GATES 350010 (350020) Power Steering Return Four types of power steering return hose, suction side of reservoir Will keep existing hose for now, not leaking 34611AE23A HOSE-SUCTION $19 34611AE12A HOSE-SUCTION $38 34611AE07A HOSE-SUCTION $20 34611AE08A HOSE-SUCTION $24 CLAMP-HEATER PIPE 72057AA001 $2 gasket, thermostat 21236AA010 $3 reuse existing thermostat and rad hoses (replace at next coolant flush) valve cover hose to air box R side valve cover hose to air box L side 11815AB062 $17 gasket, EGR hard pipe x2 14719AA033 $5 ea donor is RHD: swap intake over (see notes) GASKET-INTAKE MANIFOLD x2 14035AA410 $13 leave head gaskets alone reseal timing cover with three bond 1217H (for 1280B) oil pan pickup o-ring 806919080 reseal oil pan with ultra grey oil cooler o-ring replace with dealer part reseal rocker valve covers with OEM gaskets and sealant recommended sealant three bond 1280B - discontinued by SOA Replaced by THREE BOND 1217H Part Number: SOA868V9610 Alternative: 3M™ Ultrapro™ High Temp Silicone Gasket 08672 Black 3 Oz replace spark plugs x6 with NGK PLFR6A11 $8 ea platinum WASHER,CYLINDER HEAD SEALING 10982AA000 Two on timing chain cover, replaced timing cover, crank pulley, oil seal 806738200 $5 bucket and shim valve inspect. Largely in spec. replace spark plugs transmission rubber mount 41022AE12B seems intact ************** Job notes *************** intake manifold ************** prior to pulling engine- removed intake manifold due to difficulty accessing 4 torque converter bolts. injectors and fuel rails remain attached to manifold. must remove all 6 injector electrical connectors...this is not mentioned in procedure. must also remove LH oxygen sensor mate that is fastened to a metal bracket in order to remove the injectors and leave the harness on the engine. removed bracket first due to difficulty with this step. Intake differences: vacuum line to brake on right side of JDM intake, strange square plug on L side. Could just run a longer vacuum line to the fitting...or swap intake over...I chose to swap. ...notes from subaruoutback.org... Brake booster connection has a nipple on one side and a plug on the other. About half the time I can get the two broke out and swapped. If not I just run a longer hose, and save the one-way valve made into the OEM hose. AC compressor is different. Alt and PS pump are the same. No other major stuff to swap. No need to swap intake manifolds. ...end of subaruoutback.org... *********** engine separation ************** advised to use the special tool p/n 498277200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-498277200-Flywheel-Stopper-Subaru/372549661330?hash=item56bdb0b292:g:I2kAAOSwrmRcJVqM:sc:USPSFirstClass!37122!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0 Tool is a keeper for the torque converter, attached to the lower bolt hole for the starter. Otherwise torque converter can wiggle off the trans and come with the engine. This part is $130 on ebay. Some have made it themselves. Others have jury rigged something using ty-wrap, wire, or the alternator bolt and washers through a torque converter bolt hole. Part I made from 16 awg sheet metal bent on engine separation. The torque converter was easily pushed back in after the engine came out, but according to FSM, it needs to be around +0.1" offset from the trans bell housing. I measure it to around 0.25". So torque converter coming out. Not sure where the problem is. The oil pump shaft is seated on the converter well and the circlip is seated in the slots w/o obvious damage. Will reuse existing circlip. Possibly the input shaft was dislodged slightly. The input shaft came out when the torque converter was removed (easily). Has an o-ring that is degraded. Will replace. Reinstall input shaft into transmission. FSM states that it should be 0.197 - 0.217 offset from front of trans. I measure it at 0.204 so we're good. Oil pump shaft has a ring seal that is split, intentionally? Will replace. Oil seal will be replaced for good measure. Alternative, from USMB: When you get the bolts out of the TC and its free from the flexplate, take a big screwdriver or prybar and pry it back away from the flexplate. Should move back about 1/4" and disengage the pilot stub which will help keep the TC from sliding out when you separate the bellhousings. When you get the engine and trans separated about an inch, get a bolt that's about 3/4" longer than the width of the upper bellhousing. Get a nut and a fender washer to fit the bolt. slide the bolt into the top corner bellhousing bolt hole, put the box end of a large wrench, about 3/4", on the bolt, point the other end of the wrench towards the center stub of the TC. Slide the washer on, then the nut, then tighten it up. It doesn't need to be he-man tight. Just tight enough to keep the wrench from moving. Now as long as you didn't drag the TC out that far while trying to get the engine loose, it will stay seated properly until you've put the engine back in. images of timing cover internals https://www.flickr.com/photos/dbur971/sets/72157700601187324/ ************ transmission seal retainers *************** R side first Degreased externals. Removed retainer lock. Marked retainer. Removed with channel lock pliers and PVC tool. 7 turns to remove. Tapped out oil seal with rubber mallet. Removed bearing. Degreased. Reinstall new oil seal and o-ring. Reinstall bearing after coating with gear oil. Reinstall retainer 7 turns to hand tight. Used pliers to turn 1-2 more teeth to line up with mark. Reinstall retainer lock 25 ft-lb. L side next Degreased externals. Removed retainer lock. Marked retainer. Removed with channel lock pliers and PVC tool. 7.25 turns to remove. Tapped out oil seal with rubber mallet. Removed bearing. Degreased. Reinstall new oil seal and o-ring. Portion of differential popped out and was easily reinstalled with some wiggling. Reinstall bearing after coating with gear oil. Reinstall retainer 7 turns to hand tight. Used pliers to turn 3 more teeth to line up with mark. Rather tight for last tooth. Periodically rotated shaft during tightening. Shaft not overly light after retainer installed. ****************** A/C compressor ***************** swap old unit onto JDM engine. JDM has lines cut. Will be spare. Existing harness does not match JDM connectors. ***************** alternator ***************** JDM will be spare. Reinstall old unit. ****************** power steering *************** JDM will be spare. Reinstall old unit. Old cradle fits JDM engine. left side oxygen sensor cable cut. swap harness over L side knock sensor missing, harness cut. Swap sensor over. small ventilation hoses on front of valve cover to intake piping L side loose/cracked. Replace. R side seems ok Replace fuel lines on intake as needed Gates 5/16" 27348 Barricade MPI Fuel Line Amazon, 15' $41 Fuel evaporator vapor return line from intake to firewall is rotting, replaced with yellow 1/4" tygon tubing, fuel rated Tygon F-4040-A PVC Fuel And Lubricant Tubing, 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD, 1/16" Wall Replaced PCV valve. Sealed with ultra grey. Note that JDM valve did not seem to be sealed. Torque converter notes: Post submitted to USMB. See separate post of the ugliness. Tapped oil pump shaft oil seal in using a punch to try to gain some increased travel on torque converter. Ended up driving it in too far. Tried to pull it back with a slide hammer but tore the seal. Removed with slide hammer. Bought and installed new seal. Drove it in about 0.05" past lip this time to avoid covering oil access hole at 3pm position. Reinstall torque converter w/o issues on 2nd time. Separation is 0.15". Plenty of space between flex plate and converter w/o impact after engine reinstalled. Install 4 bolts, replace cover. Then install intake manifold. Flex plate: Installed while on engine stand. Used a 3/8" extension to brace flex plate against engine case. Torque to 60 ft. lb. Grease torque converter center stub and flex plate receiver. No bearing here. exhaust manifolds: scotch brite and orbital sand with 60 grit. spray gaskets with copper sealant. Leave flange prior to resonator as is. loose heat shield repaired with extra piece of sheet metal placed between shield and exhaust pipe. new donut gasket placed. front differential gear oil 80w90 @engine swap 3-2019 used walmart brand. Poured in with 1 qt container with hose/nozzle. Added about 1.25 qt. Crank bolt: Method to install in a manual trans does not work (locking brakes). No way to lock the torque converter, just spins. Should have tightened it while on engine stand when installing flex plate. Used a combination of 3/8" extensions and a large bolt to hold the crank pulley vs. the center bolt. Torque to 160 ft. lb. Took pictures of the madness. Might have stressed the idler pulley bearing on the A/C bracket. Engine install: After much trouble attempting to level out the engine on the hoist, which was pretty unsuccessful, install goes fairly smoothly anyway. Engine was listing to the right side and not tipped back to match the transmission. After a lot of jockeying to line up the two lower engine studs on the transmission bell housing, the engine was raised on the hoist effectively tipping it back. It slid in fairly far on the studs, and then a bit of wiggling and pressure at the 12:00 position got the two pins started. Had sanded and greased the pins prior. Install four upper bolts. Can't find the short bolt on the top, so use a power steering bracket bolt instead. Install four long bolts in lower portion of bell housing, plus two nuts on the lowest studs. Opted NOT to reseal trans pan. Will monitor fluid levels. Pan accessible with exhaust installed so will not have to drop exhaust for reseal. First start: cranked a long time w/o firing. Likely no fuel in rails. Cycled ign on and off 5-6 times to build up fuel pressure. Started and ran at low rpm for a short while, some chuffing and shaking/vibration of engine block that lessened. (In retrospect this shaking is likely due to bad O2 sensor wiring on RH, see below). Had coolant funnel installed. Did not get heat in cabin until temp had climbed quite a bit, but eventually had heat. Raced the engine 5-6 times then held at 2k rpm. Was checking trans fluid also so not a classic cooling system burp. Lower hose cold. Eventually cooling fans came on solid and temp climbing to 206. Shut down and capped. Next day topped off coolant, restarted. Heat in cabin came early. Raced engine as directed. Heat in lower hose, cooling fans cycling normally with temp dropping as expected. Shut down. Next start was later than evening, did a test drive with good cooling results, a bit of gurgling. Still fighting trans fluid levels. Auto trans shifted will on short test drive. Also did a burn in on new front brake pads, up to 40 mph with braking not to full stop, 5-6 times. Getting P0031 which is R side heater circuit on front sensor. O2 sensor itself is 1.6 ohms on tinned leads, open on gold leads. Suspect the heater ckt is on the tinned leads, which is normal reading. O2 sensors have 50k and 80k miles each. R side connector has two pins pushed out that are for heater ckt. Push pins back. Restart, now getting P0131 code. Engine idling rough. Swapped a spare O2 sensor on RH. Same P0131 code. Bought two new Denso O2 sensors from rock auto. New sensor on RH has same code. So now presuming there is a fault in the wiring harness. Either pinched something when installing the intake or the donor JDM engine harness had a preexisting fault. Found broken wire in RH engine harness connector, E47 on wiring diagram. Black wire, part of signal pair to ECM. Buzzed out to B21 connector at firewall. Harvest O2 connector from old engine harness and splice into new harness. Turns out that the signal pair is wired backwards from the drawing. Left as is. No more CEL codes. Three independant O2 sensor-related wiring harness problems with JDM donor harness (LH connector cut off, RH heater pins backed out, broken signal wire). Statistically, of all the potential problems with engine swap to have this type of concentration is bizarre. Transmission fluid: Having trouble getting trans fluid level measurement. Seems to be high, then low. Could be fluid residue getting on stick. Have already added about 4-5 quarts. From USMB: The only way I can get a reading is basically vehicle cold, start, shift through all gears on shifter, put in park pull stick, wipe, reinsert, (a few times, to get excess off stick) Then slowly insert stick, then slowly remove and look at both sides of stick holding it in front of the headlight. It should generally be somewhere in the cold range then. Soob says check it warm/hot but sheesh I just see fluid everywhere on all three soobs if I try it that way. Added about 2 additional quarts of wal-mart dex merc. Finally reading at low end of cold level on stick with engine running, after shifting through all gears, while cold. Next cold start still reading low, so added about 1/2 qt. Now reading just above high end cold.

Tap a chisel into the slot and soak with oil. It will wiggle eventually. Are you sure the bolt is out, not broken off?

You seem obsessed with wheel articulation, get rid of your sway bars, I didn't realize you still had them. If you put the car on stands or a lift it should drive all four wheels. If you can put it on a lift that might be a good way to figure out where the noise is coming from - rear diff, wheel bearing, CV, etc.

MY feeling is that the aluminum elbow, while cool, adds heat to the intake charge and that its shape is a restriction and hurts power output compared to a round tube. That said, I have not done anything about it and both my EA81Ts still have that part installed at this point.

It depends how bad it is. Might want to go get a used knuckle. jaw puller won’t work. Sometimes no tool will work. The tool will break or it’ll apply enough force to pull the ball out of the ballpoint socket and leave the socket remnants rust welded into the knuckle - I don’t know of any tools that will apply that much force before breaking. Did you open up the pinch area of the knuckle first? That needs to be done. do you still have it attached to the strut? Here is how it works - 8 out of 10 will come out by *seriously* pounding the $@¥{+* out of it. You need heavy blunt force directed directly down. 1 out of 10 you’ll need heat or to work the circumference of the ball joint right where it enters the knuckle with a chisel Work all the way around and bash the life out of it. Go back to pounding down. If yours ears don’t feel the banging you’re not hitting it hard enough. In a very few cases nothing will really get it out until you heat the hell out of it and/or give it so much force that it rips the ball out of the socket and then go in and drill and chisel the remaining rust-welded-fossilized bits of the ball shell out from inside the knuckle piece by piece. it just depends how bad it is that’s why some methods work and others don’t and online commentary is so varied. Some people haven’t seen hard ones ever, some have seen a few levels...etc. We don’t know how bad yours is so it’s hard to say but I’d increase your efforts, attack and Arsenal very fast in case you have a beast

Only thing I have found that works is either a oxygen/acetylene torch or a special ball joint puller. http://www.company23.com/products/subarutools/532 You can try soaking it with AeroKroil or other rust penetrant but your success may vary. Sometimes using a chisel to open up the split assuming you got the entire pinch bolt out. Some have had good luck using an air hammer.

89Ru - I'd agree but its been months since I topped the reservoir. To make sure it wasn't a failed cap or something, I topped up the radiator directly. It took less than half a quart for it to be running on the ground. About 6 months ago, I did find a leak in one of the small hoses on the back of the case to the intake. It would leak from a pin-hole right after you shut it off for about 6-10 seconds. It was such a small leak that it would evaporate as it hit the case. So I changed that and its cousin on the left side. I did have someone tell me today that if I didn't use a factory thermostat then that could be my problem. My replacement about a year ago was a Stant which I thought were OEM units. I'm stopping by a Subie dealer tomorrow and checking on that angle. Bill

if you're smelling coolant there's likely a leak somewhere. Replace the radiator. I've had good luck with Spectra premium at RockAuto. Cheap insurance.

Found the seal fragment on the garage floor stuck in rag. Made sure to stick the new ring seal on with extra grease and didn't squeeze all the excess out of the groove. Torque converter went back in to within 0.15" of the trans bell housing. JDM engine working great. Shout out to JDMracingmotors of Montreal for the replacement engine. They post compression test results video on every engine. They also post pictures of known defects, if any, so take a good look at the pics. Had a few issues with the wiring harness but spliced sections of the old and new together to make a complete working harness. Used the stock intake as the JDM has the brake vacuum hose on the opposite side and I could not get the plug out, some kind of strange square fitting. I suppose I could have ran a longer hose...Swapped over the JDM fuel injectors and replaced all fuel lines and injector o-rings. No affiliation with this company. Will post full write-up in a bit.

Just cut off the connector and crimp/heat shrink the wires together. The connectors regularly break or are incompatible. You don't need a connector there - you can just unbolt the sensor. It's stupid. GD

Hmmm... graphic equaliser (say it in a Homer Simpson voice with some drool ) @Giles - I'd be pulling all CV shafts down, cleaning, regreasing and putting quality new CV boots (“bellows” - cool name). Double check that you’ve got an LSD our the back, over here they were optional on the Vortex/XT4. If so it’s also a good time to service the clutch packs that will most likely be worn out. I’ve read that some sort of Nissan clutch packs fit in since the r160 is essentially the same diff. Cheers Bennie