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If it's pre-05 for front bearings they must be pressed. Subaru specifically disallows use of a hydraulic press for this due to the danger of deforming the knuckle. It should also be done on the car so as to not disturb the alignment. Dealer replacement pricing for the pressed in bearings is in the neighborhood of $700. The job is 3.2 hours labor with the Subaru specific on-car press tool. If you bring me a bare knuckle it's still going to be about 1.25 hours so $125. Including measuring the bearing pocket for deformation. And then you'll need an alignment. Plus you want to use a quality bearing, seals, and may need a new hub. Do the math. We use a hub tamer (hub grappler actually), and we charge $400 without a new hub, or $450 with a new hub. So how much are you really going to save? Beware anyone that's going to press this for cheap. They probably shouldn't be doing it. Keep in mind that we see other shops screw this up routinely. It is very easy to get in way over your head. From rusted axle splines, to deformed knuckle pockets, hub's with severe wear lips, and other nasty surprises. If you have no experience pressing bearings, do yourself a favor and have it done professionally or get a used knuckle from the junk yard. GD

My '83 wagon is nearly stock, it just has a Weber and I've kept the Hitachi and all associated parts just in case... Except for the aluminum spoiler on the rear, looks factory but I don't know, the car is optioned out (minus the turbo and automatic tranny) so it might be. No frankensubie here.

When you see a car with play in the "bearing", you replace it correctly with all new parts only to find it still has 1/2" of play at the tire..... you will definitely check bearing pockets for distortion from being abused on a press. GD

That's a good lookin wagon!

It's been a while since I did this, but it should be the scrap value, so it won't be much to buy the totaled car.

Didn’t stay clean for long had to fully test it out and take it to one of the lakes where I live. It did great everything seems to be working how it’s supposed to but dang I need to do the engine swap this thing is gutless with the lift even more so than before. Just gotta tough it out and fix the sti first don’t ever own 2 money pits it’s rough lol

Pulled her out of the driveway and after the test drive I fully detailed it. She was so dirty from just sitting. Sure does clean up good

Either the brushes are going or you have a dead spot on one of the poles of the windings. It heats up while running and opens. The inertia of the motor will keep it running until you shut it down and then it won't run again until it cools down. I've seen this many times before with all types of blower motors. You could also have a blower resistor that's going bad or the connector at the resistor. Check power and and at the motor when it happens. If you've got both, bad motor.

As the title says, my friend gave me his 95 Legacy L with 231k after i wrecked my 05 trailblazer during the blizzards this past february down in Albuquerque. He got it at 190k. Car def needs some love, but the engine and tranny have been taken care of. Since he has had all the belts were changed, valve job was done, rear main seal, rear cam shaft seal, oil seperator, transmission oil cooler... Just before he got it the HGs were done supposedly, they do look fresh just checking the seams inbetween the heads and the block. Barely leaks any oil at this point. Supposedly burns going uphill, but ive yet to experience this. Since ive had it, ive addressed some things that have been neglected by both previous owners, mostly safety related.. So new front rotors and calipers, new pads all around, as well as new Rack and Pinion, and inner and outer tie rods... Currently i have a few more things to address, which i will be posting in the relevant forums shortly... Mostly it is suspension related, and a new issue dealing with a stripped alternator terminal(s.o.b)... But hopefully im almost there, and she will make a wortht replacement for the trailblazer.

Two more here! Both ea82 1985 xt turbo 103,000 miles 1988 gl wagon spfi a little over 200,000 miles. My 85 gl wagon has the ej22

I could probably rent one. Actually. Which i probably will. Friend says he hears the noise more in the floorboard area closer to the transmission exceot when im braking then its def in the wheel well. i can definitely feel it in the spring when the car is jacked up. I imagine the noise just resonates down the axle when there isnt much load? Well regardless. Seems i know what tomorrow's project will be. Thank you guys. Any tips or tricks I could use?

Maybe that little rubber elbow that looks to be diverting some air from the fan to the brushes of the fan motor - check is still there, connected and free from internal blockage.

if you want to check for wheel bearings, jack up so both front wheels are in the air. spin one wheel by hand while holding onto the strut coil. you'll feel some grittiness on the one with bad bearings.

I've got Enkei Compe-8s, Turbines, the 4-spoke factory alloys, a set of mesh Enkeis, maybe one other style in 4x140.

It depends how bad it is. Might want to go get a used knuckle. jaw puller won’t work. Sometimes no tool will work. The tool will break or it’ll apply enough force to pull the ball out of the ballpoint socket and leave the socket remnants rust welded into the knuckle - I don’t know of any tools that will apply that much force before breaking. Did you open up the pinch area of the knuckle first? That needs to be done. do you still have it attached to the strut? Here is how it works - 8 out of 10 will come out by *seriously* pounding the $@¥{+* out of it. You need heavy blunt force directed directly down. 1 out of 10 you’ll need heat or to work the circumference of the ball joint right where it enters the knuckle with a chisel Work all the way around and bash the life out of it. Go back to pounding down. If yours ears don’t feel the banging you’re not hitting it hard enough. In a very few cases nothing will really get it out until you heat the hell out of it and/or give it so much force that it rips the ball out of the socket and then go in and drill and chisel the remaining rust-welded-fossilized bits of the ball shell out from inside the knuckle piece by piece. it just depends how bad it is that’s why some methods work and others don’t and online commentary is so varied. Some people haven’t seen hard ones ever, some have seen a few levels...etc. We don’t know how bad yours is so it’s hard to say but I’d increase your efforts, attack and Arsenal very fast in case you have a beast

Mine is pretty much all there, only replaced the front and rear bumpers, and the front corner marker lights. Other than that, still going strong on 342,000 miles on the engine.

Salem checking in with a 13 Forester Premium & 83 Brat GL. Looking for early 80's GL DL with 4wd standard transmission & power steering for parts for my Brat.