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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/17/19 in all areas
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Hi guys! I am starting a recall for LGT owners from 05-06 who has a catted up-pipe. The up-pipe for the legacy GT in these given years has a catalytic converter in there and after a certain mileage, the debris of the catalytic converter breaking down would shoot back into the turbocharger. that would cause the turbo failure and stall the vehicle unexpectedly. the catalytic converter in the up-pipe does not have any indication of % of wear and most non-car enthusiasts would not know what the issue is caused by except for an expensive turbo replacement and up-pipe replacements. https://scrabblewordfinder.vip/ Most of the owners of these issues turn over to catless up-pipe but that would cause the check engine light coming on and over boosting or the engine run rich, further damaging the engine. This can be dangerous if a person is on a road trip and having a long drive as it directly impacts the drivability of the vehicle. Subaru has recognized the issue and therefore 07+ turbo models all have a catless up-pipe with the ecu tuned to that specification. https://www.applock.ooo/ I believe it is not fair for 05-06 legacy GT owners to have to suffer from such a critical issue without some sort of compensation or recall. https://www.7zip.vip/ If any of you guys have suffered from this issue and hope NHTSA can issue a recall and make our up-pipe catless and possibly a new turbo! Please report this complain! The NHTSA ID Number: 11204499 Thank you for your time2 points
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FOUND! Self recovery from the crack heads that were driving it around Oakland. No damage beside stereo to torn apart and the smell of crack head... Having a gps locator onboard was the saving grace. Thanks for all the support USMB! Im adding in a secret ignition kill switch. FYI -I’m pretty sure my ignition lock is so old. any worn down Subaru “skeleton” key would have work. Doesn’t look like they hot wire bypassed.. we won’t discuss that to much online but you may want to check it out for yourself. Luke2 points
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You might have someone at a NAPA that actually knows what they are doing - that is not at all the norm. I don't buy parts there and I wouldn't even consider them for machine work. If it came down to that (and it has with some things and I've carried out the threat) I would just buy the machine tools and do it my d*mn self. And as with almost everything - if you want it done right, do it yourself. OR - pay an a$$load to someone like me that can actually do it properly on the car with the correct tools prescribed by the engineers who designed it. It's only "expensive" because of the perceived value of the vehicle and your time. IS your time worth more than the proper repair? If not then do it twice or three times and spend your time rather than your money. Or you can sell your time using the skills YOU have and trade it for money that you buy the skills WE have with. Up to you. But it does say a lot about a person when you consider all the angles doesn't it? GD2 points
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Hi all - my second post here! Introducing our newly acquired, 22 year old Legacy Sedan, to compliment our ‘99 Forester workhorse. Super cheap (for here), super well maintained with only 90,000 miles. Original Dark blue Pearl paint, perfect upholstery, belts changed at 60k, regular services under its one owner, clean oils all around, and four tyres of the same model and Michelin brand, a comfort after my first Subaru purchase (Forester SF) required a new centre diff due to mis-matched tyres. I picked it up cheap as the vendor did not even know it was AWD. He wondered why I had asked for photos amongst others, of the underside of the rear end. When told him ‘differential’ he replied ‘its front wheel drive...’ when I answered ‘yes, as well ‘ his jaw dropped as he realised that he’d greatly underpriced this ageing, apparently unexciting generic Japanese sedan by quite a bit. I did not haggle, to be fair to him.... Anyway, as in the vendor’s description, it runs like new, makes the right noises under all conditions, and is a pure joy to drive. I’m fresh in love with the EJ22. To me its main fault is that it is a bit low to the ground, so a little 1” lift will be made soon. Thanks for looking.1 point
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Three scoob family, now looking for a model non-specific forum. Willing to share experiences, maintenane tips etc. Have rebuilt engines, suspension, diffs, clutches in my off grid workshop with no mains power! love my 1990s Subarus!!1 point
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Hi I bought 3 Subaru Brats, got all three for 1500. 1 runs but has transmission problems 2 has a seized engine but has the nicest interior & exterior (despite an ugly paint job) 3 is going to be a future project as it needs a complete interior and most of the exterior worked on i had a guy contact me wanting a body, I offer the 3rd one but he did not want it. we agreed on the 2nd Brat with a price of 700 plus a pair of bed chairs that he has. it’ll be just the body, as he’s got an 83 that the body is to far gone on, and i’ll Keep the motor and transmission plus whatever he doesn’t want/need. so my question is. I’m I ripping him off, or vise versa?1 point
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GD, I work over the cube wall from our warranty department (OEM manufacturer). I write recalls, interact with our legal counsel as well as with NHTSA reps. "Sudden loss of control" is only one of the criteria used by NHTSA to determine if something needs to happen. A cat disintegrating, locking up the turbo or taking out the engine is absolutely something that could be covered under a safety recall because guess what, if you engine munches your turbo, you lose the ability to accelerate, brake with power assistance, steer with power assistance, all things NHTSA generally frowns upon. Is it likely to happen? Maybe not, but it could, and that's all that matters really. NHTSA isn't only interested in safety, that's why they have a customer portal on their website, the link says "Report A Problem," and there is no criteria given for what they consider acceptable types of complaints. Manufacturers generally don't initiate recalls on their own, unless people are dying or the company stands to lose millions in dissatisfied fleet buyers, so it's really on us as consumers to report anything and everything. You may disagree, but take it from someone working in the belly of the beast...1 point
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I like Len's Club idea - it basically tells someone to keep moving along and look for another target. Yeah, I know they aren't 'perfect' and they can be defeated - but, criminals are lazy - too easy to find an easier target. Anything visible from the outside keeps them from even trying a door. Maybe print-up a fake parking violation to put under the wiper - knuckle-heads might think a cop or tow truck is in the area.1 point
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are you making the best of all 3 into 1? i think you came out ontop due to the abundance of parts! as long as you can make atleast 1 brat out of everything that is fairly complete and running good. you'll be able to drive the brat for many years to come thanks to the extra parts from the others if 1 brat is all you're going after (which i highly recommend) ***if you have an extra set of mudflaps i'll be interested in buying them from you?1 point
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Get into it before you seriously overheat the block. This reduces the hardness of the alloys used in the block, and thus, it’s not as good as it was in the past, even with a new HG. Cheers Bennie1 point
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Wheel bearing is replaced. Followed Generals advice as for pulling from the junk yard. 1000 times better. There was no wheel play but after the whole assy was off, there was a ridiculous amount of play in that bearing... Thank you General. Thanks to everyone else. I believe my free car is finally able to ve safely driven back home.1 point
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100's of thousands like yours have made it 20+ years without issues, take a deep breath. occasionally they crack. if you're worried about it buy a brand new one that has never been overheated, seen road chemicals, UV, or much O2 exposure - they're only $15 or maybe google a metal one. https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-thermostat-housing-11060aa0711 point