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I have customers that travel here (Portland) from Medford. I don't know of anyone in that area that really knows EA's. It's a dying art working on the old stuff. Fortunately I have a couple tech's in addition to myself that have considerable experience with them. Parts availability is the biggest issue but I know all the sources and can usually get myself out of most jams..... unless you need an oil pump. Then you're just hosed. I have customers in Medford, Seattle, and even Lake Tahoe. Other than the drive time it's usually cheaper in the long run to have it done right that to have it done twice. GD

Everybody always hopes "maybe it's the radiator." It almost never is. Can't tell you how many cars I've been brought for HG's that the owner say's, "yeah we just replaced the radiator x months ago." Don't try to do them in the car. Just as hard if not harder than pulling engine. It's possible, but way more likely to screw something up. If you aren't a pro-level mechanic, I can guarantee you that you'll end up doing one of three things in car 1) Scratch the hell outta block trying to finangle the heads in along the rail with the bolts already sticking through. 2) Drop, fold or damage the new HG's as you are making that same move. 3) Assuming 2 and 3 are avoided, you're likely to screw up the torque. It's impossible to make full 90 degree rotations with the handle of breaker/ratchet used to set the head bolts. It's not simply a torque procedure, there are specific rotations and to do it right in this case you need a torque wrench with a angle calculator. Doing them out of car, on an engine stand, gives you the best platform for doing a successful, long lasting job, the first try. Subaru engines are light and easy to handle in and out of the car.

Hood release cables are still available from SoA, get 'em while you can!

Welcome to the forum! Why did you replace the radiator? If you’ve been for a drive at highway speeds this will sufficiently bleed the cooing system if you’ve got enough coolant in the system already. When you top up the radiator, run the engine up to temp with the cap off, then watch for bubbles in the radiator. If these show up there’s a high possibility that you’ve got a blown head gasket. Cheers Bennie

So the shift mount on my 87 GL broke and I would like some input on my fix I Found this online, I don't have a welder so bolt on is great I scarped the old rubber and sent both side through the drill press. This is how it fits. I plan on painting it at some point but is seems to be working What do you guys think?

FWD struts will be a little lower ride height. Maybe an inch. I've been driving these since 1988, never had a broken motor mount, so I don't know what kind of noise that would cause if any. Open the hood. Start it. Stomp the brakes down hard. Put it in gear, apply moderate gas pedal, watch the engine. If one is broken, it will move considerably, should make a noise when it hits stops. At least that is what I saw decades ago on a big ol' American car with a broken mount.

While you wait for your bore scope to arrive, disconnect then reconnect exhaust components sequentially until the symptoms disappear. Seems pretty simple although tedious. You would have to do this to use your bore scope anyways. If you trust your suspicion, then start in the rear with that R muffler although it could be a restriction just ahead of that component then move L and then forward. Each time evaluate to see if symptoms improve.

I think they are generally called locating dowels rather than piston pins.

Here are the details from Subaru https://subaru.oemdtc.com/80/engine-oil-consumption-2013-2015-subaru 100k miles/8 years

Epoxy them back together. Buy new or used. Lots of options. drive it like that until you get covers I run without covers all the time, but not on interference engines. For the time, cost and labor of bent valves it’s penny wise dollar dumb for most people. Debris and spills could be problematic. the pulleys rust out here which means 4 rusty pulleys churning against the tbelt. Maybe benign but I’ll pass on interference engines

Cut a slot in it and use a flat blade? Chisel and hammer...... vice grips..... IDK I haven't run into that before. Use your imagination. GD

Morning guys. lovely day here on the coast of Wales. today, I need to add metal to my rusty sills ( rockers) and rebuild rear suspension attachments. my welding skills are improving i hope not to burn myself to much today #upsidedownwelding i have to weld these pieces in ( see pics) ive cut out all rust, removed surface rust with acid. Today I will start to tack the metal in place and fabricate other pieces. its quite a lot of work to shape and bend the metal. Plus not losing any lines or dimensions. ive already done the other side. so this is less daunting. After ive repaired this section the rear underside is fully repaired. Behind the cabin floor pan. i will epoxy prime, base coat in correct 572 space metallic blue and 2k clear. (my car was originally painted 518, blue and white, i’ll respray whole car original colour in future.) i can think about reattaching the rear refurbished suspension and brakes to the car. i still have the rear wheel arches to do too...

Engine dropped in today. Runs great, with CEL. I have 2.2 intakes with an EGR in CO. I've pulled air from the IAC hose before. A quick trip to ACE, PVC Tee fitting and a fitting to reduce to the EGR line dia. Cut the EGR pipe, use an extra Brake Booster line to run it to the IAC hose. Works great. Down the road. Time to get back to CO and do house work. Thanks Larry

If you have oil consumption, make sure you try an OEM Subaru PCV valve ONLY! Aftermarket are garbage. And if that doesn't fix the oil consumption then you need new rings. GD

not any real negative impacts at all. If you have a 2.2 manifold with an EGR it is possible to "trick" the system by routing clean air from the air intake to the EGR port on the manifold. If your 2.2 has a non EGR manifold just plug and play and ignore the CEL. HOWEVER, Many counties in Wisconsin have Tailpipe tests and won't even test if the CEL is on. Make sure your friend lives in a county that doesn't test. OR Get him to test and fail twice, then write a receipt for over $800 spent trying to "fix it". After that it can have an exemption.

Glad to read that your Subie is back at home. I always used a Club bar in all my cars, since the 1990's Here things are even worse, and the Club bar really works as 1 Lucky Texan wrote: Kind Regards.

Yeah Ok @carfreak85 here’s the story, @1 Lucky Texan Yes. I have a Metromile pay per mile insurance that calculates the miles I drive via GPS tracking. And theres a nifty map of where my car is parked. mostly designed to prevent street sweeping tickets in SF. they send me a text when I have parked in street sweeping zones. So as soon as I realize it had been taken. I went to where the car was last parked. First image 11:41 Chapman to market 11:56pm. When it was stolen from me and driven to a dark sketchy zone in Oakland under the 880. Humorously, about a 10 min walk from Oakland police department. It was not there , I drove the entire area and decided it was either long gone, or must have been stashed somewhere off the steet. I think possibly at one of the storage lots under the 880. I did not receive single from GPS for next 24hours. So they didn’t drive it at first after stealing it. I was watching the map all day Wednesday hoping to get a signal. Then Thursday at lunch it popped back up on GPS! A couple friends and I drove West Oakland following GPS about five minutes behind... We were on the phone with Oakland PD trying to get more eyes looking for it. Let me first say this. Oakland PD have a rough rump roast job, and better things to do than find a 26 year old Subaru. I get it. I’ve lived here 10 years and seen the stuff they have to deal with needless to say it would be a hard place to be a police officer. I mean no disrespect to law enforcement. But in this situation they were absolutely no help and a huge waste of my time. The do not follow/ do not chase policy, means they are pretty much unable to get involved unless the vehicle is stopped and parked. But to do that they would actually have to be looking for it. They actually called me to say “we saw your car but it drove away” At that point I realized it was pretty much up to me to retrieve vehicle. Decided to go back to the location they had taken if first it the night it was stolen. There it was parked. I jumped out of the 92 Legacy SS and drove the Loyale home. There was a crack pipe and .5 g of rock in my center console. Sucks for them. Everything I owned, info, records and proof of registration and insurance. Keys to my steering lock (that was that was on floor) had all been ditched. Maybe a spare key... I can’t remember... Dash was torn apart but they didn’t unplug the gps! Besides the other unwanted trash, crack pipes and stash, and smell of crack head left in the car. They did leave this guy DROWZEE Pokémon card. Im not a big fan of car names but I caught this one and it’s sticking! Welcome home Subie DROWZEE wagon. I’ll tell you what Ive never cleaned it so well and going to switch all cloth seats to leather as soon as i see a good set at the pick n pull. Getting something you care about back makes you want to make it better! So DROWZEE is going to get sleepier! It’s 2.2 ej swap time. If anyone has swap parts or a 90-94 2.2l ej or anything you’d like to see used on this wagon, in Bay Area or Colorado area I’m looking For upgrades! Thanks again! Luke

I like Len's Club idea - it basically tells someone to keep moving along and look for another target. Yeah, I know they aren't 'perfect' and they can be defeated - but, criminals are lazy - too easy to find an easier target. Anything visible from the outside keeps them from even trying a door. Maybe print-up a fake parking violation to put under the wiper - knuckle-heads might think a cop or tow truck is in the area.

FOUND! Self recovery from the crack heads that were driving it around Oakland. No damage beside stereo to torn apart and the smell of crack head... Having a gps locator onboard was the saving grace. Thanks for all the support USMB! Im adding in a secret ignition kill switch. FYI -I’m pretty sure my ignition lock is so old. any worn down Subaru “skeleton” key would have work. Doesn’t look like they hot wire bypassed.. we won’t discuss that to much online but you may want to check it out for yourself. Luke

if it has the metal plate, reseal it at the very least.

1992 Transmission Assembly Subaru Legacy BLU,4SW,LS,2.2L,AT,AWD,FL 277,788 190142 $350 E-Z Auto Wrecking USA-WA(East-Wenatchee) E-mail 1-888-558-6767 / 1-509-884-5000 99 I just looked up your car on car-part.com and 3 pages of transmissions came up. Make sure the trans code on your trans is the same and you are good to go. This one seems pricey and higher in miles than in the midwest, but it may just be the market.