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Get the Raybestos Opti-Cal brand new calipers. No core, and they are brand new castings. Really nice product with proper fitment to the bleeders, and they are coated: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8466968&cc=1430723&jsn=414 Bosch Quietcast pads: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6130518&cc=1430723&jsn=489 Raybestos Element3 coated rotors: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6410568&cc=1430723&jsn=537 Centric is good also: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9154660&cc=1430723&jsn=539 This is what I sell my customers. I have zero comebacks for our brake work. GD

one of your front CV axles may be broken

I had one wheel lock up years ago. the ebrake mechanism on the caliper was stuck on. I pulled the cable off and worked the mechanism by hand over and over and it freed up. Boot and all looked good and no obvious issue and no rust. Maybe I got lucky, it never did it again.

You would’ve been better off pulling the dash board out. You’ve created a lot more work there pulling all the individual pieces out like that! There are seven bolts holding the dashboard in from memory. Three under the windscreen hidden behind click on plates, two each side, one centered one. Lower section there’s one on each side, then two in the centre on top of the trans tunnel. Other snags include speedo cable, temp control slide cable, vent cables - driver’s and passenger’s side, AC wiring, ignition wiring and the main dashboard harness plugs. This is all from memory so I could be wrong on a few of these. Last L series dash removal was in 2015... I thought I had an image of my L dashboard out of the vehicle but I can’t find it now. As for the MY heater core. I can’t see how this can be removed without pulling the dashboard to remove the heater box. I’ve got my brumby dashboard out atm and there’s no way that heater core comes out sideways. Cheers Bennie

I knew you were the man for this one.

PM me I do OBD II for $180 + shipping Will come with heat shrunk, weather proof Fusible link for main battery connection. All other wires will be labeled and long enough for you to route as you wish to IG., Fuel Pump, tach, speedo, CEL, Etc. * stripping harness only. If you can bring the car to Corvallis I can install harness for labor time rates.

So I was going to leave it alone, as the part that was originally broken on the retainer didnt seem to effect the seal whatsoever, but to get the seal out you have to take the retainer off. In doing so, I may or may not have f***** up the retainer, chipping many of the teeth off and whatnot :/ Mechanically minded friend said that it was easy to do. Just screw in, bottom out, ease out an eighth of a turn. Everything I have read says (damn near) the same. Questions: Every where I look about adjusting preload mentions doing both sides. I would rather not codswallop with the other side as well, can i just do the one side (drivers) and call it good. I ordered the god damn part blindly, not knowing that the two sides were different from eachother. I am new to subarus, think I am mechanically adept, but the part I ordered was listed as "differential side"..........just from memory, im pretty sure the differential dipstick is on the passenger side, and that would lead me to believe that the part I ordered is for the passenger side. Yeah? Are they interchangeable

the stubs on automatics just pull out and are only held in by circlips. clean it up, make sure the circlip is in place and tap it back in place. i'd remove it from the axle first so it's a little simpler. absolutely do not touch anything else on the front diff like those retaining rings around the stubby shaft - those affect preload and will destroy the diff if you touch them or don't know what you're doing. if the retaining ring or front diff were damaged during the extrication of the axle you may have additional issues. a broken control arm - holy smokes that's some awful rust issues. that's terrible. i'd inspect the underneath of that car for other issues. usually the exhaust, rails, bodies, fenders, doglegs, strut towers and other things rust worse than the control arms....it probably sat forever in a grass field and has massive cancer.

Typing on a phone, so please excuse spelling etc. So to be clear, the cv axle come out still attacked to the male stub that is usually "locked"? in the differential itself. When peering into the differential, the splines seem mint, and I can see a metal rod/tube running perpendicular to the ground, possible where the stub connected to. No clue. SOS.

Power probes are useful, but I wouldn't consider one to be practical unless you do electrical repairs on a daily basis. Id like to buy one, but at $179, I can do all the same things with a $30 multimeter and $30 worth of wire and some switches/relays. How to get from the hood to the trunk... Long jumper wires. Go buy a couple spools of wire. 12 guage is usually more than sufficient. One red, one black to match the meter, or whatever colors you prefer if it makes it easier for you. Sometimes you need 3-4 wires, but not often. Cut about 18 foot sections of each. Put some insulated spade connectors on each end, then make short sections maybe 6"-1' each with various other types of crimp terminals, and one set with alligator clips for each wire. Also buy a single 30 amp fuse holder (one with the wires already on it) and make sure to use that with a properly rated fuse if you ever need to run power straight from the battery to the rear of the car. Match the fuse that you use at the time to the fuse size that particular circuit should normally use. For instance, don't use a 30 amp fuse for a circuit that might only normally require a 7.5 amp fuse, and vice versa.

My 1/2" Milwaukee takes off axles nuts like nothing. And pretty much anything else too. It has 475 lb ft of torque, and they now make one, the same size but different design, that has 1100 lb ft.

Assuming it's a Subaru 2.5 and five speed trans, I'd just pick up a front CV axle for something like a 99 Outback, Forester, or Impreza. ABS rings are about all that changed on the EJ axles and you probably don't care. This might provide a lot more confusion than help: http://goworldparts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Worldparts-CV-Axles_Quick-Specs_May-20151.pdf If you can use a standard Subaru EJ front axle, these seem to hold up well and have more plunge travel than most: http://autoshafts.com/i-23374251-cv-axle-shaft.html

You don't really need an analysis to tell you $2 a quart oil is garbage do you? GD

nifty. I almost understand that but get a little lost with wording....series, wire pair, interrupt, control switch, flasher relay - those words have some ambiguity for me, i'm like middle school electrically....

Prior to my ownership, my Forester was victim to some shoddy body work. Some shot overspray on the muffler and exhaust tip. There is also soot, and other black stuff in addition to the white paint. I have tried acetone, chrome wheel polish, barkeeper's friend, piant stripper, and wrights's silver cream. My understanding is that there should be clearcoat, or something similar over the metal, right? Anyway, all advise is appreciated! Thank you!

A friend of mine has a milwaukee 1/2" cordless impact. It's pretty good. It's great in the junkyard or on the side of the road when something is broken. Maybe changing a tire in the shop when I don't wanna run an air hose. I still way prefer my 1/2" pneumatic, though. It's lighter, more powerful, smaller to fit in tight spots, and I can run it 100% duty cycle going nuts ripping things apart. If you do that on an electric impact you'll overheat it. Even when I do rally service for the race car, I drag my generator and 30 gal compressor along with me to the service park. Electric impacts are a long way for replacing pneumatic tools for me. Once you have a good pneumatic rattle gun in your hand, you're gonna be hard pressed to let it go.