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Good morning...I am on other car enthusiast forums for my Acura and my Miata, and find them very helpful and informative. I just bought a 2013 Impreza Premium Sport for my son who will be 16 in a few weeks. I'm here to learn from the experts, and long time owners. These forums are invaluable for car owners, and I look forward to learning.

you've already removed the oil pan and pickup tube? it should lie flat, normal upright position on the table. if there's not enough leverage, put it on a carpet floor and step on it as you unbolt.

Subaru heat shields are notorious for rattling. And your symptoms (low RPMs, light-load, decelerating) seem to point at heat shields. BUT, heat shield will also rattle with the car stationary. And the rattling can be quite loud when the engine is started. If you cannot create the rattle at zero speed, then it is most likely not the heat shields.

The final twist to the 99 HVAC was the linkage had a catch/slop about halfway through. You could move it all the way through the travel by hand but there are all sorts of slots and arms and there is a catch where one of them reverses direction in a slot. My Impreza does the same thing but you can play with the knob to get it past that spot. I sprayed the linkage down with some lube and that seemed to help a little. I cycled the actuator a bunch of times and that seemed to help some. Occasionally if you have it in defrost and then hit the vent button (at the far end of the travel), it will get stuck halfway through. If you push each button in order it seems to work every time, I think that little stopping and starting jogs it through. The extra voltage and slight vibration of the engine running didn't seem to help. I recently changed the valving in the rear shocks on the 2002 Outback. After I did that and before I put the interior back in, I made up some little tie down loops. Probably should have made them longer but you can hook a normal ratchet strap onto them, I'm thinking they'll hold up better than the stock plastic hooks, ultimately probably limited by the tabs spot welded to the body. You can barely see one of them bolted to the top of the right shock mount. Reservoirs are hose clamped in place. Cut out the foam under the floor panel that sits on them, it still sits a little high but not too bad. With all the interior back in. Here you can barely see the other tie down loops. We'll find out soon how well they hold.

Cool. Is the 5-bolt version any stronger?

That could play into it. Bajas are distinctive in brat reminicence, two tone, two door, bed, yellow, and some with a turbo hood. tribeca is distinctive in nothing.

Well, Subaru made them for about 8 years according to Wikipedia which was twice as long as the Baja. Maybe the Baja just stands out more because the Tribeca looks just your average crossover vehicle.

Thanks for you response. I will get on this today.

By a nice Snap On ratchet and you will have it for a long time. They are expensive but worth it IMO. I think that they make a style just like that Champion one too.

I've got the Ni-cad Snap-on 1/2" and just got the new Lithium 3/8" from them. The 3/8" has 230ft/lbs of torque. I still use the 1/2" on a lot of the bigger stuff, but I do lug nuts with the 3/8" no problem, even on the 3500 pickups. Nice thing about the 1/2" is it is much quieter than air tools. It is heavy though, and a bit big in some spots, which is why I got the 3/8". I haven't really had anything in the shop that my 1/2" couldn't take off that the air ones could. IT just takes a bit longer on some of them. Worth not having to deal with the air hose in my book. Only thing it doesn't take off commonly is Honda and VW crank bolts, but then again, sometimes even the starter and a 3' bar struggle with those. As for the batteries, all the Snap-on ones come with two, and they charge faster than I go though them. I suppose if you were a tire guy, you might start to push it, but even then, I think it could keep up. Also, the 3/8" has a really bright light on it, which makes it nice for things like bell-housing bolts on a subi. TL;DR I only use my Snap-on Cordless impacts. If they won't do it, I use my 3' breaker bar. By then, it usually moves or breaks.

Basically IMO it comes down to these 2 general categories. 1) Generic OBD I and OBD II series scan tools. These will give you GENERIC access to trouble codes and data, OBD health checks, etc. Some will also give you code definitions and some troubleshooting which is very helpful (IE the more the better IMO) Usually these come with a few adapters and the generic 16 pin OBD II adapter. This can be anything from a USB adapter for your laptop, bluetooth widget for your smartphone, etc. 2) Scan tools with vehicle specific or manufacturer specific access to the different onboard controllers via the make, model, and VIN # entry offer advantages in the amount of information available to you for diagnosis and troubleshooting. Any of these will cover all of the generic PIDs with the addition of being able to access the manufacurers PIDS in the ECU, TCU, BCM, SIR, ABS, HVAC, modules. More expensive kits will include additional connectors and software for Europeanvehicles, adapters for older ODB I vehicles, etc. The downside with these is price. All the extra software and adapters give you a lot more capabilites and it all costs more too. The detailed troubleshooting software included with my scan tools has helped me more times than I can count over the years as I work alone most of the time. One specific reproducable example I can think of right off is a 2001 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 SOHC V-6 engine. Pull off the connector for the cam sensor on the left valve cover and start the engine. The generic scan tool connected to the 16 pin OBD II port does not read a code P0340 for quite a while, perhaps miles. With a scan tool connected using vehicle specific (VIN) entry you will see that code P0340 instantly (the second the engine starts). Lastly, search out the code setting parameters and the information available in generic mode $06. It helps to brush up on hex a bit, but you can actually use this data to verify repair effectiveness. Again, both methods provide valuable information and in my opinion are both needed. Most issues can be resolved with a good generic OBD scanner, but as you see the more you learn, the more toys you seem to want. Good Luck! My diagnostic kit also contains a Lab Scope, Logic Probe, and DVOM too. These are my ramblings. You are free to form your own.

That pic is precious:lol:

Welcome to the USMB, Rstnal14. You need to post this in the Older Generation Forum. Good luck with the Loyale.