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I have measured MANY main lines, and short of a brand new factory case, they are virtually always out of spec. I tore down a 24k mile 2014 WRX block and the main line was way out of spec..... and when I say out of spec I mean *I* will not assemble them with the specs I measured. I will not assemble the case if I can't get all the mains between 0.0010" and 0.00125". My personal opinion, and probably several of you will disagree, is that Subaru engine blocks are essentially disposable and really shouldn't be rebuilt. According to the manual if the main line is out of spec it's scrap. There's not even a Subaru approved machining solution to this situation. We have a work around for this but you can only do it once, maybe twice before the oil pump doesn't bolt on anymore. Then you have the dowel pin situation. Once the block has been assembled and disassembled half a dozen times for inspection, machine work, etc, the dowel pin mating holes in the block get loose enough to allow misalignment of sometimes as much as 0.0005".... now what happens to a main bearing oil clearance that was at 0.0010" (that's 0.0005" on either side of the crank) when the block halves are misaligned during assembly by 0.0005"? Think about it. Mull it over for a second. How do you assure the case halves are aligned when there's a crank in the way of doing any measurement? There's ways.... they are trade secrets as far as I'm concerned. GD

In a different thread someone is looking for a tail light and I jokingly commented that I hope it's not a 3 door. I was having a good day until I spotted this at the junkyard...i almost lost my lunch The dash is pristine. Blue. She's at u pull and pay Denver. Anyone out of state want anything? I only want two of those 8 spoke Ea81 4 speed d/r I grabbed what I could before they closed. So sad...let's at least strip her down to nothing on this final leg of this poor cars journey...

The older, lower power engines I don't believe have enough power to oval the main lines. But these engines are so cheap in good used condition that rebuilding them isn't even close to economically viable. 2.5's and especially the turbo models develop enough cylinder pressure to distort the crank and over time push the aluminum of the case halves around. Remember cast aluminium has the density and machining properties of Oak. Literally the machining feeds and speed are virtually identical for the two materials. How many times do you want to rebuild an engine made from a material that (for the purposes of strength considerations) is effective indistinguishable from dead tree carcass? Seriously rebuilding these engine blocks is a $hit show and you are ALMOST ALWAYS better served in both time and money by buying a new set of case halves from Subaru ($950), and a new crankshaft ($275). And don't get me started on the non-pin located connecting rods used in the NA's. Those things are awful about assembly repeatability. GD

The forester doesn't have a frame. Shock towers rust, but those are the only places on the unibody that should affect body integrity. They cannot be repaired AFAIK, and likely all others in your area have similar issues. However, there a MANY Foresters and Imprezas with bad engines to be had for cheap.

The 07 Tribeca is the most beautiful vehicle in the history of cars that go. From the back it looks like a 2019 Cherokee! *Prove me wrong meme here*

I ended up buying 4qts of the Subaru ATF-HP as I figured the cost difference between that and a generic fluid was way cheaper than a new transmission. I've heard some people use an Amsoil or Valvoline product but I don't have any good references to say they are compatible. I believe the Subaru ATF-HP is made by Idemitsu Type HP Automatic Transmission Fluid that is available at some Auto Parts stores but is same price as Subaru ($8 a quart)

I've never needed to line bore the EJ case. Now, I've on;y done rebuilds on NA engines. They have all measured out within spec. I've done about 2 dozen full rebuilds of EJ22 and EJ25s. All of them are still running great. The one in my personal forester, has 60K plus miles on it now and still runs perfect. First I will ask, Do you have the pistons removed? That's the first step. Second, why don't you have the enigne on an engine stand. They are like $50 at harbor frieght. Go get one. DO NOT use impact on the case bolts. Impact socket have thick walls, and fit too tighly against the outside of the cylinder barrels. Then when the extension flexes under torque, it can crack or break the upper edge of the barrel. Strap or bolt the damn thing down, and use quality 12 point, 3/8th drive socket on a breaker bar. If you don't have the pistons out.......get them out now. The case will not come apart with them in, and it's wonky once the case is split and flopping in half. He can save a little money by disassmbly him self, then dropping of the block, crank, and rods at the machine shop to be measured, polished, and bored to round, respectively. then again, it is only about $2000 for a BRAND NEW subaru shortblock........that's really the best way to go.

I'm not sure that a EJ253 will fit between the frame rails. I know early EJ22 will fit (90-98) They barely clear, about 1/2" on the drivers side rear edge. EJ253 is wider, by about 3 in., so.....I don't think it will fit. I would look for an 90-98 Legacy donor with 2.2.

If you can't figure out how to fixture the case such that you can remove the case half bolts I conclude you have no business doing so and there is nothing in there you can successfully repair. Lay down the tools and step away from the precision engineering. GD

They won't have play. We check them with a stethoscope while driving it on the lift. Checking for play is not valid when they are at the humming stage. This means they are still tight. When they get loose they won't make that noise anymore - they will just eventually fall off. GD

I think I have some spare steelies for a '86/93 GL that should fit fine. Theyre not doughtnut sized spares though, theyre full size. Im in Vancouver BC and shipping to Utah is a bit on the expensive side. I also have the spare for my '83 wagon, but thats also not a full size.