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There is no relay in a stock 92. It is a common failure for a connection in the circuit that applies power from the start position of the key switch, through the transmission safety lockout to the back of the starter to become high enough resistance to make a click from the starter, but not enough power for the solenoid to pull in far enough to close the contacts that apply power to the starting motor. There are a bunch of threads about "the relay mod" on this forum. You can verify that the cause is this by using a medium size piece of wire from the little terminal on the starter solenoid to the + battery terminal. If it cranks, it's this common problem. The other click no crank is caused when one of the contacts in the solenoid wears away enough so that it no longer makes reliable contact when closed.

Monday morning we checked over the cars. Both front control arm nuts on the black Outback had backed off a lot, the one almost to the end of the stud. We headed to the pond where C swamped his Impreza, had about as much water in it as it did then. We went back and hit the best dips/jumps on the road just before the pond where B blew out the strut tower on his green Forester. The last big one made the black Outback wheelie a couple times. The other runs it just jumped level, not sure what made the difference. While taking runs at these dips/jumps I noticed the clutch was starting to slip. Figured we'd just take major snowmobile trails down to the big spring. Wound up taking a ~15 mile dead end to a couple big water holes. The first one was about a quarter mile long, couldn't even see the end of it. Took a different route and that one went to a water hole that was shorter but probably quite deep so we turned around and drove all the way back to the highway. Much of that snowmobile trail has little jumps/whoops that sneak up on you, just cruising along at 50mph and all of a sudden you hit a dip and you're in the air. At this point we didn't have time for the big spring and the super whoops. The big spring was farther out of the way and most of the group preferred seeing the super whoops so we headed there, had to drive on pavement for a couple hours. Clutch in the black Outback was definitely starting to slip over about half throttle. Sometimes with the cruise on going up a grade you could see it slip 50-100RPM and then come back down. We hit some little whooped out sandy trails on the way there. Along the paved road to the super whoop parking lot was a narrow sandy trail with small whoops so we hit a portion of that. The guys pointed out it would make for great video driving along the car filming from the side watching the suspension thrashing up and down. At this point I'd noticed a pinhole leak in one of the fuel hoses in the black Outback so I fixed that. They took everything out of the back seat of the white Outback and took that and the Forester through the super whoops. Apparently the rear end of the white Outback kicked up badly with four people in it. They came back just as I was finishing washing the fuel off my hands and arms and M and A and I took the white and black Outbacks up the first half of the super whoops, switched cars, and came back down. The black Outback was definitely better but the white Outback didn't kick up too bad with just one person in it. On the way out we drove part of the mini whoops with the black Outback and Forester and filmed with the other two cars. We dropped off J on the way home and all the cars drove home OK. Clutch in black Outback still slips some, seems to be fine when you first drive it and then will slip after maybe five minutes of driving. Thinking that might indicate an oil leak so I ordered a rear main seal and rear cover o-ring for the engine and input shaft seal for the trans. Windshield isn't any more cracked than when we started the trip, still just has the cracks down in the passenger side lower corner. Never had to bend the wiper arms/cowl either. Needs a driver's side front CV axle, it was making a little noise at the start of the trip and a little more by the end, the outer boot is badly torn. B and I both drove it with the parking brake on so that needs to be adjusted. White Outback also needs the parking brake adjusted. Has a high pitched intermittent grinding noise I think coming from the rear. We noticed the Impreza has a sloppy RF wheel bearing early in the trip. Never got worse but it would be good to put one of the bolt on wheel bearing knuckles on, already did that on the LF. Needs the post cat portion of the exhaust reinstalled. Overall it was one of our best trips so far. Weather was about perfect, no major breakdowns, good variety of trails.

Wow, Washington state's collector car license plate law is sounding sweeter and sweeter as more comparisons come in! Our plates never need to be renewed, I didn't have to sign any special documents regarding mileage, no car club requirements, no log books, no special insurance, no second car. Every drive just needs to be to a car show, for someone's pleasure, or for testing and tuning. Easy, just like it should be...

Good effort Nico! Will all the glass be removed before the respray? And any spray work happening under the vehicle? Mid love to do the same to my L series but time, money and space are at a premium these days ;( Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

you wouldn't really notice a problem from 40 miles. What you could experience, is a shorter trans life. Or maybe not. But honestly. Is 10 bucks worth gambling? If you order Idemitsu-HP or Genuine subaru HP in larger amounts you can get it pretty cheap. like 6~7 dollars a quart. Cheapo Autozone garbage is $5 or $6 already, so getting the good stuff is totally worth it when your 4EAT is still rocking at 300k miles. (my current 98 fozzy has 260k on a great running and shifting trans. Subaru fluid only. And if you aren't putting agenuine subaru spin on filter on it, don't bother with any others. Subaru say's theirs is lifetime anyhow. I think it's worth teh $30 for the genuine filter every 50-100k miles.

When you use an actual lift, the lift arms have rubber pads that spread the load on the pinch across about a 5" length. These pads have to be replaced periodically as the pinch welds from hundreds of cars eventually cut through them. Ask my ebay account - I have bought about 50 of them for my lifts. I own 5 - used to own 6 but ripped one out for a 2000 HP chassis dyno. I might know what I'm talking about BTW. I would not trust a rubber pad perched atop a jack stand. That's suicidally stupid. The scissor jack is really for emergency use to change the tire - is only designed to lift the car till the tire clears the ground. It is not a service tool, and will not hold up to that use. After a few dozen uses you will wear it out. The floor jack goes on the "Jacking Plate" that is designed expressly for this purpose. It is located directly aft of the oil pan. You have a 2014 - buy a proper jack ya cheapskate! Or - there's about 3000 lbs of DEATH awaiting you. Please film it for YouTube. GD