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DON'T SEPERATE THE CASE HALVES IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO! If you do, you'll want to line bore the main bearing journals. If the bottom end isn't damaged, don't bother messing with it.

Three scoob family, now looking for a model non-specific forum. Willing to share experiences, maintenane tips etc. Have rebuilt engines, suspension, diffs, clutches in my off grid workshop with no mains power! love my 1990s Subarus!!

That's the entire function of the oil cooler, it exchanges heat between the engine oil and coolant. Oil flows through it to the filter and then back through it to the engine block, and coolant flows through it via a pair of rubber hoses. The hoses are flexible, so you can unbolt the cooler from the block and move it around some (plenty for replacing it's Oring). One of those hoses goes to a steel line that crosses in front of the oil pan, this can be unbolted from the engine to gain even more flexibility without opening the cooling system. I'm not sure if it'll be enough to really be beneficial in accessing the oil switch. In 2008, Subaru switched coolant types. I've seen newer cars with conventional green in them, but I certainly wouldn't mix them, at which point a gallon of Subaru stuff typically makes more sense then flushing the system to replace with conventional green fluid. Adding fluid isn't any different. I think that setup still has a conventional radiator cap/overflow bottle.

@sparkyboy oh yes, she will be 100% again..just depends on how long that'll take, finding parts has become pretty hard but worth it, the wife and i were thinking of naming her alpha, considering she is the first of her "kind" lol

Looks interesting mate. I’ll be looking forward to the build progressing - with pics! Cheers Bennie

It would crack around the pressure switch, yes. You should be able to see it. If it's an automatic, you can power brake it in gear and maybe get the AVLS to engage.... GD

Oil does run through it, but only through the center and the rim that oil filter covers. The lines on the side are coolant in and out. It's wafer setup. Coolant runs between the wafers, and oil runs through the holes in the wafer stacks. Should be described more as a heat exchanger, than a cooler really. The blue coolant is subaru's (and others) special improved premium quality. Made by Pentafrost IIRC. But yeah it's just a bit expensive. I would just move the cooler to the side a bit, not actually remove it. Slip the new O-ring carefully up into it's groove before reinstalling. Should be enough to get to the oil sender.

It’s two sided - imports costs and complainance. Import costs are usually the same across the board. Compliance is not and depends on the vehicle. For example, the MY hatch can have brumby doors fitted to comply with the side intrusion bar requirement. The 3 door coupe, these need to be fitted by a qualified company. The means welding and labour time to do it. I don’t think the RHD conversion would be difficult, it’d just require an engineer to sign off and since you be using factory parts from a donor vehicle I doubt there would be an issue with this. May the end of the day it comes down to how deep your pockets are to take on a pursuit like this. I’d have a three door RXII coupe from NZ if I could afford it! And I’ll take a hatch while I’m at it Cheers Bennie

The high side is the line that goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.The low is the one that comes from inside the car. The low side hose is bigger than the high side hose. The sight glass eye is on the high side.

You want Brakes. not breaks. Breaks are not good for cars.

NO. Ring & pinion are a matched set.

thats so cool beast you have. i so envy what cars you guys can drive there. if i would drove that were i live, people would think i'm going to war. lol .