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I was wondering where all these BRAT models were coming from, flooding the market!

You have to pull the spring on the cable back so you can remove it from the bracket. If you want to pull the cable out of the backing plate there is a clip that needs to be removed. It's right where the cable enters the backing plate.

Yes, fix both. But not at the same time, please. Otherwise, you (and the rest of us) will never know what caused the problem.

Alright, probably the first post to be this excited about tiny 13" wheel impreza brakes and axles ever!! Had to put a new wheel bearing into the drivers side knuckle today. Bearing was so bad the hub was trashed too. I had to press one from a 96 Outback and remove the tone ring. Now all pressed in with new bearing and ready to go now. Here the Combo......mocked up for sexy all their 13" wheel, 23 spline Impreza sexiness. 1st gen Legacy non-abs Knuckles 93 FWD Imprezas axles 93 FWD Impreza rotors 242mm 93 FWD Impreza Caliper brackets 93 Impreza FWD brake pads Impreza actual calipers will be replaced with the EA82 calipers on the rig currently. IMG_3809 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's a pic of the difference in the slider pin sizes. Upper pin teh EA82 pin is longer, and possibly larger diameter.....haven't pulled them apart yet. IMG_3810 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Lower pin looks like it might be the same length, gotta also check diameter too. More to come. IMG_3811 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Next up, XT6 control arms widened 5/8th inch (1-1/4 track width increase to match stock Impreza) And 2011 Outback Front shocks, modified perches to use 2004 Outback rear springs. Thoughts?

If it's not hard metal clacking chances are it might be a failing tensioner. Take the covers off again and do the prybar trick to test.

Yeah, I've had bad luck getting the wrong side Sachs brand. returned what I thought to be a "flawed" product, only to get he same part again. It's basically a drivers side strut, with brake line tab reversed. Don't know if that's what you are getting. At any rate you can use the driver side on the passenger side. Bend up the tab at the front and rotate the strut so that the spring perch is out like it should be. leave that tab unbolted. Clamp it in, and use a ziptie to hold the brake line to the strut.

Don't overlook checking for spark/fuel. The basics.

What that refers to is the shape of the "O"ring, and that it has turned into a "C"ring basically and ressembles Pac-man's shape. I worked some 25+ years in the Injection Molding field, lots of O-rings on one of those machines. I've seen many o-rings blow in that manner. And for the most part, yes,, they get blown in, not sucked in. On the intake/supply side of the pump, yes,, they do get sucked in. But on the pressure side of the system, they get blown in from system pressure. The o-rings sit in a cavity and do not have an internal support. O-ring seal is made by the squish of the mating surfaces and relies on system pressure to help make the seal from the fluid putting pressure on it in a radial pattern outwards. Heat is one major enemy of o-rings, time is another. Combine the two and problems will arise. As the o-rings age they lose thier flexibility comprimizing the seal. When that happens, system pressure can migrate to the outter side of the o-ring. With no internal support of the o-ring, fluid pressure will push inwards on the oring, causing it to fail. Doesn't matter if system pressure is 10 PSI or 2,500 PSI or if it's oil, air, water. The reinforced o-ring basically keeps the o-ring from collapsing in on itself if/when the seal is comprimized. If there was a U-shaped channel vs the flat recess for the o-ring to sit in, seal would be mantained better/longer. Just my .02...