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13 years later! Necro-bump!

You only get a lean code from sustained positive fuel trims of 25% or more. If the fuel trims are a result of an actual lean condition such as an intake leak, then the AFR sensor's corrections are accurate and the converter will still work (if it's good) and the secondary O2 will read a steady 0.7v or so. If the front AFR sensor is bad however, it can cause a lean reading leading to erroneous positive fuel trims (with or without a lean code), overloading the converter and driving the secondary O2 voltage high. Secondary O2 sensor voltages that are stuck at 0.9v+ should be a red flag. The tell-tale of a bad cat is normal fuel trims (+/- 5%) and a fluctuating secondary O2 voltage. If the secondary O2 switches in the manner of an old school primary narrow band then this is an indication the converter is non functional. And for the love of god please would you people stop honing cylinders?!? Damn when will this wives tale die already? GD

I would definitely do a full timing belt job on the replacement engine. Use the intake manifold that is currently installed in your car. When you pull off the crankshaft gear compare it to the one currently installed. If the two match then you should be good, otherwise you will need to swap the crankshaft and drivers side camshaft gears from your original engine onto the JDM engine

If you paid for a warranty, use it. Have the yard where you bought it get you another trans. It's not working. That means you get another one. That's what warranties are for. It's also why I pull the pan on engines and trans before accepting them from a yard.

4Wheeler magazine (or similar) did a mini-series on their project Subaru. I think they did swap in 14-in. wheels, but could only fit a marginally taller tire (no lift kit). You may not even be able to find a larger-than-stock tire in those wheel sizes anymore...

What kind of junk?? Like lots-of-work junk that I can drive for the summer, or unfix-able junk? If I cannot fix this issue, everyone in my life is insisting I donate the car to a yard, and I really don't want to buy another car.

terrifying pics

Take it back for the warranty. It's junk

Yeah the front and rear arms hang down alot further than axles. Here's proof. IMG_3779 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr These will be changed to heavy wall tube arms soon. Or not, maybe I'll just carry cheap, light and easy junk yard spares! Here is the bent axle before removal, there isn't a bash mark on it. You can also see from this angle, the axle sits higher than the suspension mounts and arms, and will travel further up "in" to the space between them on compression, so only a, thin, tall, odd rock could reach it. IMG_3780 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3781 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

There has been discussion about this at another Forum by folks much more knowledgable than me and it seems that, maybe starting with canbus (around 05 depending on model I think) the rear-most sensor may be part of the 'algorithm' for adjusting the a:f ratio. hopefully one of the gurus here can chime in on this.

if the after-cat sensor's wiring and integrity are good, anything that prevents the converter from 'lighting-off' will return an error. In a good working system, you can even use an infrared therm and see that after cat exhaust piping could be 100*F hotter than the piping at it's intake. So, if the exhaust going into the cat does not support the 'catalytic action' for some reason, the reaction won't happen and the rear sensor won't be 'happy'. on older cars, that sensor is just a cat conv 'nanny' and could be ignored or 'cheated' with a spacer or a coupla resistors to clear the code, but on most(?) newer cars ( and, it seems, on Gen2 H6es), it seems to also be used by the ECU to modify a:f .

Yes you've got it straight about pulling the shaft, with bearing attached, straight through the trailing arm hole. The CV boot just barely slips through with factory axles. It's the way you have to do it when the splines are seized up in the bearings, which seems to happen frequently. I suppose aftermarkets with larger CV cup this would not work. But with factory, makes for easy swap out. I'm going to get about a dozen spares from the wreckers........Pull them this way and you get the bearing and CV for just the price of the CV axle. Don't even need to remove E-brakes, just pull the ABS sensor (12mm bolt on top) or it's tip will be broken. As for the bent shafts.........Both the one that snapped, and the one that didn't had the same, long arcing bow. Neither had scrapes or marks from hitting rocks. It was a pretty dry day, and I can see tell tale bash marks on places like the trailing arm brackets, and rear diff mount clearly, but there are no marks like that on either axle. I really think the bend is from 250 miles of street driving with brand new, sticky, 31" mud tires on the welded rear end.