Leaderboard

I tested the resistance between E13 pin 1 and ground, got 136 Ohms. That's obviously bad, so I found the other end of that cable at the E2-B21 connectors. There are three engine-bulkhead connectors mounted to the passenger side of the engine, down low. E2-B21 is the 12 pin connector in the middle of that stack. I unplugged that one, and put on a smear of dielectric grease before I re-plugged it. Then I read -5 Ohms. I figure the negative resistance indicates there is some stray voltage, but I'm not going to worry about that yet. I plugged the connector back onto the TPS and took a test drive. Same problem! Now that I have the scan tool , I could check that, and it was indeed the case. I probably was at 1/8th throttle before the TPS value got off 0%. With Key On Engine Off I twisted the TPS until the scan tool reported the smallest non-zero value I could manage, about 0.4%. I drove about 50 miles and I think it's fixed.

update - thermostat. Changed it out to a factory spec unit (aka dealer) and problems went away. Amazing the difference in size from factory to "replacement" you get from a parts store. I'd be ashamed to call that a replacement part.

without building some type of roller pads like in youtube videos --- just brainstorming some kind of test. be safe if you try something that is gonna limit steering/braking ability!

Oh man , if I had my way I’d just move out there. I shall return ! When ????

I agree with heartless. A reputable aftermarket brand works just as good as a genuine item for ball joints, tie rod ends and rack ends. Cheers Bennie

As for the air compressor, you might find one in an early legacy that has air suspension, even if it has coil springs - many ppl don’t remove the compressor. And I believe it’s the same unit between the L and the Legacy, maybe with a different mounting plate. It’s in the same location too - front left guard Thinking about it, your air system probably has leaks that lead to the air compressor burning out due to being overworked/worked too long too often. Cheers Bennie

those temps sound pretty normal to me. Fronts do the majority of braking under "normal" driving. Aftermarket would be fine for ball joints, just dont go the cheapest. get a good quality part from a known name.

Yes, they use transmission fluid to apply pressure to the clutch packs that transfer power to the rear. As mentioned, it relies on hydraulic pressure to engage the rear axle, so with the car off, driveshaft spinning by hand is definitely fine. Grain of salt, I haven't tested this, nor do I have a car with that AWD that I could test it on. BUT. There are 2 speed sensors, effectively measuring front and rear output speed, when a difference is detected it should feather the clutch packs to send a little torque to the rear. IIRC, regardless of any other conditions, it should apply some pressure to those clutches, which should spin the rear axle with no load on it. The only variable here that I'm unsure of, is that when you have it on jack stands, you're presumably at idle. It's possible that with no throttle detected, it won't apply enough pressure to the clutch packs to spin. If you blip the throttle with it in gear, and they still don't spin, you definitely have a problem. Also, this information covers nearly all 4EAT AWD Subarus (definitely your '95 Legacy), there are a few exceptions that have VTD AWD with a 4EAT. SVXs in other markets, Outback H6 VDC models (this is what I have, which is why I can't test this), and WRXs, maybe others. These models have a true differential, which is also limited by clutch packs.