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I've been slowly combing through various subsystems on my RX and the most recent system to get some love was the PCV system. I found that every hose is still available, except the one that attaches directly to the PCV valve on the intake manifold. I ran down to my local auto parts store with the original hose in hand to pick through their selection of hoses. WELL! It turns out that the small heater hose from a 2002-2009 Ford Explorer (Dayco P/N 87730) is almost a perfect fit. Hose was about $7 and needed to have a small portion trimmed off. NOTE: EPDM is NOT oil safe, so until I find a better solution, I'll need to keep an eye on this hose to make sure it isn't perishing too quickly.

They will fit fine with the right tires. GD

You need to verify the battery, cable, and starter first - these are the most common items by a looooooong shot: *** Does it "click" when you turn the key to start it and it doesn't turn over? 1. clean the battery posts where they touch the clamps 2. clean the terminal clamps on the inside 3. the starter contacts are bad. $15 new contacts and you're done. don't replace the starter with any aftermarket unit - they're all cheaply made and prone to failure down the road. just replace the contacts. if you have full battery voltage at the starter and no excessive resistance (corrosion/dirty) at the posts/terminals/cable - this is the most likely problem. https://smile.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-ND-34SOL-Solenoid-Repair/dp/B0031HMS7C/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=starter+contacts&pid=6xnCnSU&qid=1563977552&s=gateway&sr=1-1&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6&vehicleName=2002+Subaru+Outback 4. This isn't as common as the above, but if there's tons of corrossion it can propogate up the battery cable inside the insulation where you can't see it and cause too much resistance for the starter but everything else works fine.

I looked up how to splice Boeing 787 shielded avionic wire and followed that basic approach of creating shielded wire repair splices. I ended up getting some 16 gauge shielded wire and doing several repair splices with the aid of solder sleeves where the pack rats bit through the wire. Seems to be working as the Check Engine light is no longer on.

I have not seen a quick strut in a brand I would use for any model Subaru.

Giles, Your air pipes are shipped. I included a few solenoids for the front struts. Anyhow, I didn't include my home made tool, but I took these pics of using it. You can easily make one from the body of a "bic" pen. Here's the 2 pieces of it. 1 about 1~2 cm max. Sliced down the edge. Other piece about 6 cm, also sliced down the edge. IMG_0102 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Small piece fitted over the air line IMG_0103 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Longer piece now slipped over the first, and pushed up under the locking tabs. Leave the smaller piece puled back a bit still so just the outer tube is under the tabs, all the way. IMG_0104 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Now use a small tool, (tip of my multitool here) and slide the small piece tight up under the first, pushing the tabs outward. Hold pressure against the outer tube to keep the tool tight against the tabs. IMG_0105 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Fingernail used to pull the one tab that lines up on the spit in the tool. IMG_0107 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And then pull the tool, and the line toghether to pop out of the fitting. IMG_0110 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Giles, hope this helps you and others. anyone that needs an Air Compressor for these cars PM me I've got rebuildable ones for parts.