Leaderboard

After watching several You Tube vids I removed the windshield and had a guy come out and replace it. I cleaned all the old caulking off and treated and primed all the rusty parts around the edge which I don't think the cheap shops do. Cost $200 On to other problems. And as usual, thanks for responses!

+1 https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/tinnitus/symptoms-causes/syc-20350156

After doing some...never again. My time is too valuable to try and scrape value out of rusty northeast subarus. In Oregon it's probably surface, light, easy. In the northeast, usually a rust spot means poke your finger through it and surrounding paint, rubber trim, internal metal all disintegrate to a hole 4 times bigger than you thought. We don't know how bad it is - if it's just a small hole or the corner section - cut out another section, use a punch flanger, and weld it in. Nibbler is nice for chewing through sheet metal or an angle grinder, dremel, sawzall, which you'll probably need to get the hidden sections cut anyway if needed. Cut it larger than the area you're replacing. A punch flanger creates a step so that the edge of the new piece slides behind the existing metal, giving you two layers of metal overlap which saves time trying to get the metal exactly the right size/shape/orientation, you don't have any gaps to fill with body filler, and provides a little more heat sink for welding. But you can get away without one particularly if it's a small one off job. A welder, not too hot or you'll burn through it. Spot weld, you don't need a continuous seam. But really if it's bad it's a miserable job - it's often much worse than you think - once the outside sheet metal is off the rust behind it can be atrocious - falling apart, rusted all back into the crevices and folds and joints that come together, it's untreatable and you can't get to it all.

you cant find them because they dont exist. springs are most likely fine, unless they are broken, rear top mounts should also be fine. KYB has top mounts (for front) and struts. If you dont want to deal with compressing the springs when you get the new parts, pull the assemblies off the car and take the whole works to an independent shop and ask them to do it. One near us did the assemblies for the other half's 06 Outback for about $30 oh yeah, almost forgot.. the brake lines run through a small bracket on the struts.. to avoid opening the lines, pull the clip that holds the line in place, wiggle it free, and cut the outside edge of the bracket off to slip the rubber line through - we used bolt cutters to do this - just enough to get the line out.. same can be done to the new strut to put the line back - the clip will hold the line in place just fine on the new one.

The loose wire was in my head. Was thinking last night about what Dave said about the black wire. That's the one I overlooked. Hooked it up this morning and it turns over. Test drive is next.