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No, don't have any pics. They're just old rigs. They're not too 'pretty', just 'plain Jane's' with a few dings an wows. But I do have an aversion to rust. I'm a utilitarian kind of guy mostly. My main concern is how they run. The mechanics and reliability are what is important to me. If I can't fix it I can't own it. That's why they're all carbureted and no computers. I used to ride BMW Motorcycles so the boxer Subaru engine was a major draw plus the 4wd that you don't need a ladder to get into your friggin' rig was appealing. I'm not real happy with the Weber carbs I have on 2 of them. They are hard starting SOB's whereas the '87' with the Hitachi starts fine every time in all weather. Thinking now I should have left them stock but got sucked in by the Weber hype. I have gotten lots of help from these forums and I really appreciate that members are willing to offer advise to us less experienced.

Well, I just wanted to thank you. It was indeed the battery terminal. The nut was loose to leads on the positive terminal. I took the time to clean everything up and tightened the nut and no problems since! Thank again for helping out a car-dummy.

Valve height must be checked whenever a valve grind is done. That margin of stem height ensures lifters are operating within internal limits. Sink the valves too deep & you must replace valve seats. Grind too much off the faces & then must replace the valves. If cams were reground to smaller base circle then the stem heights could be more to compensate. Theoretically, by rocker ratio times difference in base circles radii - stock to reground. Probably could be checked in the car with a straightedge & calipers as long as you already knew dimension from gasket surface to spring pockets. Just do it right the first time. YMMV.

Subaru Idle Relearn Procedure: 1) Turn off the lights, aircon, stereo or any system in the car that draws extra current on top of the engine. 2) Disconnect the battery for 30 mins. 3) Reconnect the battery. 4) Before you start the car for the first time, turn the key to the ON position but do NOT turn the engine over. Wait 10-15 seconds so the electronic throttle body or IACV has time to go to the factory programmed home position. 5) After waiting, start the car and let it idle without any load, lights, A/C etc. 6) Every 20 seconds or so the idle will be adjusted up and down as the ECU tries to adjust it towards a stoichiometric fuel / air mix. 7) Leave the engine running for a full 10 mins but DO NOT TOUCH THE ACCELERATOR during this time or turn on anything that will cause extra electrical current draw. 8) Turn off the engine, and leave the key in the OFF position for at least 20 sec. 9) As per step (4) turn the key back to the ON position for 10-15 sec without actually starting the engine. 10) Start the engine and leave to idle for a further 5 minutes without touching the accelerator and without turning on other systems in the car. 11) Turn off the engine again and wait at least 20 sec before restarting. 12) Take the car for a test drive as the ECU should now be fully retrained.

Disconnect the cable from the clutch fork and make sure the master cylinder cam is all the way released.

Very interesting project, ambitious but certainly doable. I do want to start with a reality check. I know the Z is an aerodynamic car, which will help on the freeway, and I know that going from the Iron-block V6 VG30DE to an all-aluminum 4 will save you some weight (I'd guess 200 lbs or so), but you'll still have a pretty heavy car (quick google search says curb weight of 3300lbs). I don't think you'll get anywhere near 35mpg with a Subaru engine, even in the best conditions. Subaru engines are not terribly fuel efficient, certainly not in stock tune. Assuming we're looking at a budget-friendly engine swap (I assume that since we're talking about fuel mileage, this is the case) that will probably cost $2-3k depending on the details. Anything newer than 2005-2007 (depending on the exact model/trim) will have an immobilizer, which pretty much puts it completely out of this category unless you're extremely knowledgeable and get some seriously valuable parts for free. Subaru didn't offer a non-turbo 2.0 until 2012. The hard part will be the transmission. Conventional automatic transmissions are not efficient, and modern ones that are require some serious computing power to run them (and Subaru doesn't make in a RWD configuration, so you'll be mixing and matching manufacturers. good luck!). Without fabricating your own engine-transmission adapter, your best bet is probably BRZ/FRS/GT86 transmission, or using one of Bill Hincher's adapters to an older Toyota transmission. The next issue is width. Horizontally-opposed engines do not typically fit well in engine bays not designed for them. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if it wouldn't fit between the upper control arm mounts. Gauges are one of the easiest parts. Tach signal converter to get that to read right. Might have to put the Nissan temperature sender in the Subaru engine. Speedometer might be a challenge depending on the transmission, but still completely doable. If I were to engine swap a Z32, with 35mpg the goal on a budget. It would be a manual transmission. If it had to be gas, I think it would be a Honda engine. But I would be pushing very hard for a VW TDi. I know there are transmission adapters to Toyota longitudinal transmissions (see them all the time in 4WD trucks, bellhousing would be the same for many RWD Toyota transmissions). Stock tune would likely yield 45mpg+, and with some mods 60+ isn't off the table.

Ear plugs. Yes I’m serious. Enjoy responsibly.