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No on both questions. Hadn't rained in weeks when I drove/felt the issue and I have inspected the oil level the day before and didn't notice any top-end oil leaks at the time.

Long travel inspiration, easily the coolest Brat I've ever seen: https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/bajabrat/

You don’t get luckier than this - go buy this one: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/169484-1990-subaru-legacy-wagon-ocean-city-maryland/

If you can’t unstick or get it working, its insanely easy to replace the entire sunroof assembly. Used $75 and swap it.

30th birthday presents for the old girl: 1. Roof basket 2. new door trim 3. Got rid of the cataracts in her right eye I also washed her and waxed what little clear coat remains for good measure.

Yep, definitely need all the keys there (any keys not present will no longer start the car, so in the event of a stolen key doesn't turn into a stolen car). The dealership I worked at only charged one cutting/programming fee, regardless of how many keys were programmed. We had many customers bring in aftermarket keys. I'd guess we had about a 50% success rate. And in order to find out, the key has to be cut, and all the steps taken towards programming, so you'll be on the hold for the charge, they'd probably let you grab an OEM one (assuming they have one in stock) without charging you the extra programming fee. So just be aware of the gamble, and communicate with the service department up front. You could also try an aftermarket locksmith. They might have other options, and will almost certainly not charge you if it doesn't work. I avoid immobilizer cars personally, and my professional experience was just at the dealership. FYI. DON'T. LOOSE. YOUR. LAST. KEY. In the name of anti-theft, Subaru has designed these systems so that you can't add a new key, without a working key present. The car will have to be towed to a dealer, engine computer and gauge cluster removed, and mailed to Subaru to be reset, sent back, reinstalled, and then keys purchased. This process can easily cost over $1000.

No, don't have any pics. They're just old rigs. They're not too 'pretty', just 'plain Jane's' with a few dings an wows. But I do have an aversion to rust. I'm a utilitarian kind of guy mostly. My main concern is how they run. The mechanics and reliability are what is important to me. If I can't fix it I can't own it. That's why they're all carbureted and no computers. I used to ride BMW Motorcycles so the boxer Subaru engine was a major draw plus the 4wd that you don't need a ladder to get into your friggin' rig was appealing. I'm not real happy with the Weber carbs I have on 2 of them. They are hard starting SOB's whereas the '87' with the Hitachi starts fine every time in all weather. Thinking now I should have left them stock but got sucked in by the Weber hype. I have gotten lots of help from these forums and I really appreciate that members are willing to offer advise to us less experienced.