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Taking a rest in Gibraltar after 700km... Cheeky Cheekier

I once posted this car under another username, which I shall presently delete! I bought this car two years ago to complement the hard working Forester, as a daily transport to work, shopping trolley without the kids etc. Like many, I did not know this model existed until I saw it advertised. So I bought it, as at the time I was after a Fiat Panda 4x4, which now sell for silly, silly money. This was a bargain compared, and sporting the Subaru badge, how could I resist? 660cc, EMPi, 5MT, front wheel drive or selectable 4WD at the push of a button. No centre diff, so not full-time AWD. 8000+rpm, what is not to love? Five doors, and it is tiny! But I fit comfortably. However, now that I discovered my Legacy BD7, the little beast must go to a new home, so here are some photos I took for the sale: Even the number plate is kind of special (in Spain a new car gets its new number and that number dies forever when the car dies...no transfers, no ownership): 1607 BNM 16 =4x4 0.7 litre BNM = my name is BEN M. Kind of special, anyway!

I don't recall a complaint like that. Probably going to have to monitor live data through the event and see if you can spot an abnormality. You should probably look over the live data anyway. Something might show as abnormal even during normal operation. I just had an 08 Imp come in for stalling and low idle. No check engine lights. Symptoms for two months. Been to several other shops. Live data showed +25 to +30 long term fuel trims. Traced it to a bad aftermarket PCV valve installed by a shop during a "tune up". Why it didn't throw a P0171 is beyond me, but it didn't. Just stalled and low idled for two months. Drove the guy nuts. He drove an hour to see me. Went home happy. GD

the duel range trans has 2 overdrive gears 4th and 5th i could hit 90 in 4th and still have plenty of rpms left and another gear but then again i am running 30" tires i wouldent even worry about it your gona drop what maybe 500 rpms at most that 500 rpms wont hurt your engine any as long as your running under 4500 rpms your safe these engines like rpms i ran my ea82s between 4000 and 5000 rpms almost all the time the ej2.2 seems happyest at 2500 and 3500 the ej2.5d ran around 4000-5000 also at freeway speeds the flat 4 realy comes to life in the upper rpms 4500-6500 seeing as how you also want a lift just get bigger tires your gona have a hard time getting more than a 2" of lift from your suspention your stuts dont have that much up traval so you would need new struts then theres the camber issue if you max out your struts or add new bigger ones your not gona be able to aline the rig your camber will be way off thats why the body lifts mounting points are offset so much the ea cvs cant take more than 2" of lift and thats still pushing them to there limits and they still dont last very long so any more than a 2" lift will need a sub frame drop longer struts will be very hard to find the only ones i have herd of that are a direct fit is the vw bettle struts but the story is they bend very easy you could go to ej struts but you would have to change the knuckle and make custom cv axles and then unless you custom fab every part your gona be alot wider in the front then your wheels will have different bolt patterns also note that a lift kit combined with spring lift will through off your camber also so the lift kit by itself is your best option other wise you end up with bad camber i have a spring lift and a strut top lift the strut top lift was set up fot the 2" spring lift then the springs saged now the camber is out the other way lol so i recomend just getting a good lift kit or find the napkin lift kit info and make your own the napkin lift is just a hand drawn design doodled on a napkin but the guiness who drew it included all the info needed to build the lift kit the pics have been passed around from tread to thread long before i became a member on here and might be hard to find but it has all the correction info and how to make the parts good luck

Yup Its a peach and I will miss it. I was out and about in it yesterday, as the Legacy was spurting grease.... It is a bit frantic, it is basic, it buzzes angrily, and it encourages you to drive flat out. In comparison, the Legacy, though relatively basic, flies, has a low boxer grumble at any speed, and is so darn comfortable. I think it gives me better mileage too. plus it has frameless glass.

I have done my fair share to get it as good as possible... Clean-up for the sale: Engine full rebuild last year, doesn’t look like any scoob engine I worked on before! Subaru’s EN07E, ‘Clover’ 658cc (40 cu.in), 4 cylinder power pack: Refitted and run-in:

Is it really 4WD? .....really? Really!

EJ 5th gear will not fit on a standard PT dual range. It would have to be a "fulltime" 4wd difflocking AWD box. just get taller tires.

XT6 has similar weight and hp (145 hp) as an EJ22 swapped EA vehicle. I run 10% larger tires so speedo says 70 when it’s doing 77. They aren’t heavy off-road tires, use 16” aluminum wheels and can end up with better gas mileage as well. Not much difference in my local mountainous commute but I can get 28 mpg in the automatic XT6 when doing a frequent long trip at 65 mph on flat and very rural roads.

This is happening Stock brumby dash up top. This is the ONLY factory available dashboard and instrument cluster for the brumby in Australia. The lower dashboard and six gauge analogue cluster is from some touring wagons (most are digital), Coupés and the GL sedan. And of course it’s all Lego So this will be in soon. EJ wiring loom is being laid out for future use too Cheers Bennie

This is How the Instrument Cluster ended up, after the Deep Cleansing and New LED Bulbs Retrofitted, just Before to put it Back in my BumbleBeast: Now to put everything Back together. To put Back the Four Vacuum Hoses for the A/C Control Buttons is Easy, because Subaru Marked each one with Numbers... #1, #2 and #4 ...No Number three! ... ... but the last one is unmarked, as the last Vacuum Plug, so No problem at all. The Problem is to Keep them in Place, because with Age, those becomes Loose and the Tiny metallic plate that goes in their back, attached to the side's screws, isn't enough to keep 'em Hooked. So, I Used four tiny Zip ties, one for each hose and cut their excessive longitude, with scissors: That shall be More than enough. Now Reassembly everything back together. Finally, this are the Results: Somehow I Believe that the Original Designers of this Instrument Cluster, desired that it looked with Great Contrast, white numbers over black background as it looks with daylight... but since the incandescent bulbs emits amber Light, they decided to paint the Numbers with a green tint in the Newer Models, that the newer clusters has. The White illumination gives to the car a Much Modern Feeling, and is not Blinding at all, but Camera Lens tend to exagerate the Glow... it does look as Sharp as a Modern car's LED instrument cluster. Final Notes: ► You can see that the only part that has Green Tint painted behind the numbers on the instrument Cluster, is the Kilometers per Hour numbers, under the Miles per Hour numbers. ► I managed to Fix the Oil Pressure Gauge, just by sliding it slowly with my Finger, 'till it reached the Real "Top" of the readings, then it sat on the right 0 Mark, not under it as it was. The Gauge reads low, but Low is Better than under-zero (Negative) Readings ► The Dimmer Control does work Fine with LED Bulbs. I Uploaded a Video and is in High Definition Let me Know what do you think about the LED instrument Cluster and this Writeup; you can post and comment in the Discussion thread exclusively for this Modification, Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/69467-ea82-dashboard-backlights-upgrade-to-hid-white-led's/ If you find this writeup, Useful, please let me know by hitting the "Like" Button below. I only ask this as a Motivation to continue Sharing my work with you. Kind Regards.