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I never head a CVJ grind. They usually get clicky. Gradually get louder and more than just in a sharp turn. Then they start to grab and jerk the steering. Grindy sounds, more likely wheel bearings.

sounds like a 4.11 A EJ trans, (from 90-96 Legacy, Outback or Impreza sport) would be the best fit for what you want. You don't need the Dual range if your not serious offroading. You will need Turbo EA axles (25 spline), custom shortened center driveline, custom shortened shifter (Modify the EAshifter ) and a custom crossmember and center mount cradle. And EJ flywheel and clutch set. this will delete the adapter plate and redrilled flywheel. So you could sell those to make back some $. That trans will give you shorter 1st gear, and taller 5th gear. And could accept the even taller 5th gear set from Forrester turbo.

I have an OEM axle here with new outer CVJ that may fit your DL. New boots & grease on inner joint. Look it over to see if its a match. PM me if interested. $25 plus shipping. Grinding while driving could be brakes too, especially if wheel brgs have been failing for awhile or hub splines are loose on CVJ. Causes pads to wear unevenly. Look at your front tire to see if it looks tipped in at the top vs the other side. Jack up the car, grab tire then check for play. 6 & 12 o'clock then 3 & 9 o'clock.

If you replace it, try to find a used oem axle, and reboot and regrease it. Aftermarket axles are junk. What I do is clean, regrease, reboot a spare one, then make the swap. The hard part depends.... you have to get the knuckle disconnected from the lower ball joint, or the strut disconnected from the knuckle to get enough movement to get the axle out. Some of them press out easily, almost just by hand, some need a big gear puller (or a soft face dead blow hammer ) to push out. Bearing don't like impact, so never hit anything in a way the transfers metal on metal impact to bearings. A big factor is how rusty are things underneath? Use liquid wrench or airokroil a day or so before on the suspension bolts, etc. Brake caliper mounting bolts. The first time or 2 this job can be a bit slow, but it doesn't bother me at all now. Road salt can make things pretty difficult. Anti seize everything when re assembling, and any future work will be noticably easier . Go on the light end of torque range when using anti seize. For the transmission end of the axle - get the correct size drift! The pins are hollow roll pins, if you use one a size too small, it will drive into the hole and jam incredibly tightly making a nightmare you don't want or need. When assembling, verify the holes line up , as the axle will slip on the splines, but there is only one orientation where the holes line up straight. If everything is normal roll pins don't need big blows to move.

I am pretty sure that an 88 should be an EA82 engine. Pretty likely throttle body / SPFI fuel system. How to put the nut on - Tighten. Add a 2 foot long handle to the wrench. The nut is supposed to be around 150 foot lbs of torque. Once it is tight enough you can't budge it without the add on handle, add the handle, and tighten a little, check the holes for the cotter pins. There should be 2 holes in the axle, 90 degrees apart. This give twice the number of positions the nut will line up with the notches on the nut. I do this final tightening with the wheel on, and on the ground, as the parking brake can't always stop you from turning the axle. You are only looking for a fraction of a turn before a set of holes / notches line up. Position the wrench so that you can use body weight to lean down on the handle, but also be set up to catch yourself if something slips. If the nut is not tight, you can get odd noises. And eventually worse, strip the splines out of the hub. Likewise, when disassembling, pull the cotter and back the nut off until it is normal wrench handle tight, then jack up the car and pull the tire off.

agree wheel bearing probably came apart. dont drive it as if the race turns on the spindle it may gall it up, better take it apart.

SubeeTed, Always give us your year, model and mileage because it narrows down a more accurate answer to your issue. If its not a warranty issue ... find a good independent mechanic to do the job. Ask around where you work, where you shop, neighbours, etc. As for parts, any good auto parts store. Buy the Economy parts if you're getting ready to sell the car and it needs a safety check, the OEM grade for normal driving and mileage intervals, but use the Premium grade parts if you drive a car hard, or you intend on keeping it till it falls apart. Find out what the local parts stores want for the grade you require, and then check online for suppliers with free shipping and check their prices. Then make up your mind from there. Good Luck!

Thanks 2.7! I got the springs and struts but will have to wait as i need to order too mounts for the front and bushings for the rear. Bushings are pretty worn so id just like to go new all the way around. And a big thank you for that write up!