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Yes, Lucky, many nicely engineered hose clamps go through the crusher and shredder. I have collected some different ones from time to time, yet seem to not be useful to me sizes. Narrow bands are useful. I often think the wide, perforated clamps are too wide I think the fastener world calls the clamps I hate - perforated. Probably for what they can do to the hose if too tight The genuine EA wire clamps do a great job yet can be fiddly to remove without damaging them. Some years back I had to buy a genuine hose from Nissan and it came with new wires clamps - they went into my hose clamp collection for later Dave, I will take your knowledge onboard and add it to their strength sometimes not what is expected .... Job is done and coolant now stays inside

I’ve done what Bennie said about 50 times. remove clip cut through a corner of the bracket that holds the brake line. Dremel, angle grinder, Ive even done it with a small hand held metal hand saw. Bend bracket until the line can slip through. Do the same to new struts and Install slide brake line into bracket bend bracket back to its nominal position. Insert clip if you’re in an area prone to rust treat the cut metal on the new strut with some rust preventive paint/coating for aesthetics. It’s thick enough if it’s not going to rust through like a fender but it will have surface rust if you want it to look a certain way.

Toss the Chilton's in the trash can or use it to start a fire. Go here and get a Factory Service Manual https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-

If it still runs, the timing belt didn't snap. Maybe skipped teeth. But if it snapped entirely, it won't run at all. I personally wouldn't put any money at all into a 20 year old, 200k mile, Dodge Neon. Junk it.

Sorry , I thought I posted the link but I guess not. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254095461800 I've only had it in for about a month. It might crap out in a year.

There's an awful smell (like fried grasshoppers?) when the grease from a split-boot hits the exhaust. But I think of it as a Subaru built-in feature, a bit like a warning light. That smell is hard to ignore, and serves as a warning to do something about it PDQ.

I just told you - I haven't found any that work well with Subaru's. Launch is ok but you need to spend several hundred dollars for a decent one. What do you think you will be able to do with it? The problem you are currently having will not be solved with a scan tool. What is it you want to do with the scan tool exactly? GD

Thanks for the link to the shop manual. I downloaded it. So far the Chilton's manual hasn't let me down. They are much better than Haynes. One was pulling the axle to replace the passenger inner CV joint boot which busted. Weird, never had an inner joint bust. It's usually the outer boots that bust on most cars. Also noted to use two 8mm bolts in the threaded holes in the rotor to push the rotor off the hub which was seized. I saw the threaded holes but didn't click that was their purpose but did the job. Clever on Subaru's part. I once had to rent a 9" gear puller to remove a stuck rotor on a Fiat Spider. BTW. I bought this car new two weeks before Christmas in 2002. It's been a great car. Mine is a 5 speed. Other than the CV joint boot all I've had go wrong was an O2 sensor. I've done all the maintenance on it. Other repairs: I'm on my third battery, third set of tires and just replaced the front and rear brake pads and front rotors which seems warped. And flushed the brake fluid. I didn't replace or turn the rears. I wanted to see if just replacing the front rotors would get rid of the shimmy under braking which it did.

You don’t have to split the brake line. Carefully cut the little retainer bracket, then bend the two sections back to allow the brake line to come free once the clip is removed (remove clip before cutting). Do the same on the new struts The brake line will still be retained by the clip in the bracket. Cheers Bennie

Did you check the timing marks? Pull the fuel line and check for gas. Just unscrew the hose and turn the key to ON, but not start. Fuel pump should cycle and flow fuel for 2 seconds. Takes 1 minute to do that. Simple. If there is no or limited fuel the fuel pump cap tabs cracked and the oring pushed out. Replace the cap with a used one and oring with a viton one. I don’t think you can buy the caps anymore Baja caps with internal filters were available for a short time but I don’t think they still are? or I guess the fuel pump could be bad. Aftermarket pumps are low grade enough I’d rather just replace a cap if it’s cracked and take my chances on an old Subaru pump over new aftermarket pump 00-04 models are prone to this cap issue

Stainless and Aluminum don't get along well. Unless you use anti seize, if exposed to moisture, the corrosion that occurs expands and can clamp the bolts worse than rust. How long it takes depends on how wet and how long.

I bought some GEMI clamps when I replaced hoses on our Outback. They are german/european style I think and has raised 'threads', not 'perforated', as well as rolled edges, slightly narrower too. not cheap though. but, someone mentioned being able to snag some from european makes at the wrecking yard...? The T-bolt clamps that came with some mishimoto silicone hoses I put on my WRX were very nice. some of those come with springs to maintain force as hose material degrades/collapses w'ever

http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm If you want more information I reckon General Disorder sums it up here quite well: Cheers Bennie

AT shift cables, all the time. Although they usually break. We probably stocked 3 different part numbers, and sold one once a week or so.

it can be done with regular clamps using long skinny screwdriver, or 1/4 drive, thinwall socket. Provided it wasn't put together with teh clamp oriented in a way that you can't access after manifold is on.

spring clips can be grabbed/operated from the side.