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my home made copper headgaskets failed i havent tryed the multlayer copper gaskets though im thinking 2 layers of copper ringed around the cylinders and silicone sealent around the water jackets should hold but why headgaskets are cheap and your not gona boost the hay out of a ea82 so there isent a need for a better stronger sealing head gaskets with 2 layers ringed there no compresion increse like a single layer gasket so no performance gains ether

I thought you were going to say an EJ under the bonnet! Every L series owner definitely needs one! Cheers Bennie

Oh yeah - those are junk with a capitol J. Takes so much money to put one straight where it won't have any problems that it's honestly usually not worth it. GD

That doesn't apply to the FXT platform - that platform was Impreza based and didn't have the turbo failure problems that the LGT/OBXT did. The LGT platform used the VF40 and later the VF46 and had issues with high failure rates - among other things like the problems with HVAC controls and the 5EAT electrical gremlins... The FXT suffered none of this as it was equipped with the TD04 turbo. That said - the FXT doesn't require a WRX or STi swap. It already has a de-tuned STi engine. Just needs the six speed and a turbo upgrade. I have a 2007 FXT 5 speed in world rally blue that I'm going to fix and sell soon. It will leave my shop with about 360 WHP on a new fully forged engine. Asking price will be about $14k. GD

Some pictures of my L wagon in various configurations... Fenders are a bit ugly at the moment but I've had bigger problems to deal with Eventually they'll get flares and a paint job. Upset someone cut the bottom rung off the 3 tube bullbar I found, but it's still pretty good. Hope you all like those camber angles. I'm sure something ain't right there...

Also, Check the gear lube in the front diff / transmission. Loose nut is not good for anything - bearings, axle, hub, cone washer. Sealed bearings, might not be good. Depends on what they were sold as. I once used electric motor sealed bearings for the idlers, and they did not hold up as well as the oem ones, or the proper ones I bought from a bearing supply shop next time. Different applications, but something similar regarding loading and or temperature may be similar.

My old thread, with details on making exhaust gaskets. Lets see if this link will work.... -

they can look fine but still be broken. Visual inspection isn't enough. Open the hood, and look at the inner CV cups while an assistant puts the car into gear (holding brakes) If a CV is broken you will see the axle cup spinning but wheel not turning. Torque bind feels like dragging brakes while turning sharp, but doesn't make grinding noise and would not ahve any effect on Parking pawl. I'm 90% that you have a broken front CV axle.

A $3 harbor freight DVOM and a T pin for back probing is all you need to measure mV on the O2 sensor signal wire. A scan tool that can read generic OBD-II fuel trim data is about $25 on Amazon. GD

Before you go an blow up this engine/turbo - check the turbo for shaft play and PLEASE re-route the oil feed to the turbo from the engine block main oil gallery. The 05/06 LGT platform cars (OBXT being one) have major problems with turbocharger failures due to the lack of proper turbo oil feed. The stock setup is shared with the right bank AVCS oil feed and there are three 0.040" orifices in the turbo feed banjo's besides the banjo bolt oil screen filters (remove ALL of the these). Delete the factory turbo oil feed and re-route with a single 0.040" orifice (the turbo CHRA banjo bolt itself). These also suffer from ring-land failure and oil pickup tube cracking so those should be addressed and the turbo inlet should be replaced with silicone. Also the TMIC's are plastic and the tanks blow off. We have a saying around the shop - "Friends don't let friends by Legacy GT's". Because they are a total $hit-show. The 5EAT's often have electrical gremlins too. Which is a whore to fix usually. GD

to be perfectly correct, at 3, you are bringing the crank to a belt install position, it isn't TDC, it's about 90* from that such that all the pistons are at mid-travel and well-clear of the valves. a good triple-check at the end before starting the car would be to do a tooth-count between all the timing marks. You find that info on-line. The belt reference marks will be gone after you crank the engine around 2 times. they may only repeat ever 197 revolutions or some crazy number.

Yes! Another Aussie lifted L I’m looking forward to your build thread/story. Cheers Bennie

I've read that sometimes there's a problem at the purge valve under the hood. a nipple gets cracked or a hose is bad or w'ever. maybe a smoke test will find a leak.

EJs generally have the charcoal canister in the back, closer to the tank - it is MUCH more susceptible to being flooded than the old EA series cars were. me personally, when the pump kicks off, I might round off to the next whole dollar amount, might not.. depends on how close it is. if it kicks off only a couple of pennies over, I might take it to a quarter.. but i do not just keep pumping until it spits back at me.