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Change it. It's no big deal. People often ignore fluids until there's a noise, shifting weird, vibration, etc. *Then* they decide to change fluids in a desperate attempt to avoid an expensive repair. They change the ATF and the trans gets worse and the ATF is blamed. This is a common scenario but as usual people are terrible at assessing causation and correlation. The transmission was going to fail anyway, no matter what they did and the ATF change had nothing to do with it.

Again i really do appreciate you guys takin the time and holding off on the hugs:kicks ratio

Fresh fluid will often clean/open-up any gummy valves so, fingers crossed the issue gets better. Some folks have also had luck using a product like TransX so, you could try that on a future fill if fresh fluid doesn't help. Valvoline MaxLife DexIII/VI compatible, w'ever, auto trans fluid is what I would use. this topic does come up a lot, but most of the guys here aren't cranky most of the time so, you don't get 'as much'; "Use the search function NOOB!!!" -type responses as you might at some other forums.

Seems like any good one to be found is in the pnw or california. They're getting to be quite rare. Congrats on finding a good one!

What he said - you can generally get an idea of the condition of the ATF by looking at it. if it's never been changed it'll probably look and smell terrible compared to fresh ATF.

If the present trans fluid looks pretty good, you could do a single drain/fill. That gets you about 40%+ new fluid. many folks will then drive a little, do it again, drive a little, do that a 3rd time. 3 d-f cycles get you over 80% fresh fluid. Or, do it once, maybe again next year, then do it every 2 years...? w'ver you're comfortable with. The tourque conv. holds a lot that won't reach the drain plug. There are slightly more complicated ways to to do a full change. Remeber to shift thru each gear after top-up, and check while IDLING on level ground. Also. the marks on the stick are only a few ounces apart - NOT a qt like on the eng. oil dipstick so, fill slowly. Also, fill the front diff slowly - I use a funnel that has a hose attached. For the front and rear diffs - you might check into a WalMart semi-synthetic/synth'blend' GL-5, affordable and reports are it's OK fluid. If you do the rear diff, take the FILL plug out first. Don't want to drain it and then have no way to move/drive it if the fill plug is stuck. I had to use my floor jack on a breaker-bar handle. A gear oil pump will help fill it. some cars go to their grave without getting diffs serviced. But, if you do it, probably never have to do it again.

Thanks for the name and photo of your front end The RX!! you have may have a different rubber spoiler and panels than my 85 GLTAs I had and any other EA82 I have had

Signals came out great! Once I setup image hosting I’ll post up better pictures

This looks like the source: https://snugzusa.com/product/zlbxwt-aslpnewtsm

Pic isn't working for me here, but IIRC those were a giveaway years and years ago.

I'd diagnose the no-start and timing belt first though before putting money into a radiator you won't need. if the valves are bent you can buy used heads for $100-$200 and swap them out and be back on the road relatively inexpensively as well. resurface the heads, new subaru headgaskets, new Subaru timing belt and lower cogged pulley and you're good for another 100k for $200 in new maintenance parts.

Yeah I vote for a 14" version also. Let us know what you find out!

Davalos, your tire guy is on crack! My turbo wagon has 185/70/13s stock and they are not even close to rubbing. If we could get them to make a set of the Silverstone wheels in 15 or 16 inches, I'm in 100%, no doubt, swear to god I'll buy 'em. Heres an example: http://www.americanracing.com/wheels/details.asp?wheelid=196&name=Silverstone%20Custom%20Offset&style=401&desc=2-piece%20painted%20center,%20polished%20rim&section=V#