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The sensor for the temp gauge is most likely a single wire thing that bolts into the intake near the thermostat. I skipped over EA81 engines, but I suspect that multiple overheats are just as bad for their headgaskets as they are for earlier and later engines. Most important thing to keep at 100% in Subarus is the cooling system. Radiator free flows, all the fins attached to the tubes. All of the various cooling system hoses maintained, not just the 2 radiator and heater hoses. System always 100% full of coolant, little to no air. Usually air is the initial sign of problems coming.

That is just a shroud around the manifold that is used to supply heated air to the air filter box when its cold. There should be a dryer vent looking pipe that runs from that shroud to the round port underneath the air box

HGs aren’t “rare” on the EA81. They’re not super common but they do happen from time to time. My immediate thought on the issue is that your head gaskets are toast. But, checking those areas as identified by skishop - blocked radiator will have hot and cold patches at full operating temp. Thermostat could be stuck. Use genuine. Also try tightening your fan belt, this will increase contact on the water pump pulley and reduce slip if there is any. Cheers Bennie

Is the fan blowing hot air while it's running? If not, I'd replace the t-stat to start. Older and good quality water pumps don't usually snap or 'spin' the impeller and just stop pumping. Could be a plugged radiator or HGs, but I doubt it's blown HGs. It's rare on an EA81.

Wow. Wasn't someone just saying the market for BRATs had gone flat? Guess not...

3 parts to every circuit: - Load - Ground - Power Check out Load Pro on you tube. Was any work done before these stopped working? Did they ever work since you've had the car? Pull up the schematic and check for voltage under load.

Several years ago I had to replace the right front wheel bearing on our 95 RHD Legacy wagon (mail car). At that time I worked at an auto parts store, so I used the brand we carried. It lasted a week. I put another one in with a new hub and that one lasted about two weeks. I then got the knuckle complete from a junk yard and that one lasted just over a year. My next step was to go to our local Subaru dealer and buy their wheel bearing and seals. The car now has 467,736 miles on it and going strong. The other 3 wheel bearings are original. I took apart the bearings that failed. The rollers are tapered. The large end was shinny and the small end was black. I don't think the rollers or races were machined correctly.

It will look a lot better once i get the fronts on...a lot less rake. Looking at It from the rear, It didnt change the axle angle all that much. Hope to have fronts on in next couple of days. Already getting orders for firewood which is delaying things a bit

Smart - just like you said, you don't really want to cut corners here on an interference engine, they usually bend lots of valves, over 50% of the valves are bent on every one i've seen. 1. Replace the timing belt and lower sprocket (toothed idler) at a bare minimum. Those two parts fail the most by a long shot. 2. Assess the remaining pulleys and replace if noisy or free wheeling too easily (no grease inside). Look for wetness on the tensioner hydraulic seal. 3. Use Subaru parts only - belt is Mitsubishi and you can research the cheap $35 pulley...it's koyo or NTN or NSK I think. 4. Dealer prices on these parts are not bad at all - you can buy them online at discounted prices and there are a number of inexpensive sellers on ebay. Yes they're not as cheap as the cheapest belts - but like you said you don't want those on an interference engine anyway. The best recommendation is to replace the belt, all 3 pulleys, tensioner, and water pump. AISIN sells kits, usually they're OEM but there's becoming some confusing providers now too if you're shopping around and not getting a totally aisin kit. The tensioner isn't prone to fail if properly remove and installed. the cam and crank seals for your year are very robust materials and rarely leak. Your 2003 baja may have the 7mm oil pump though which is known low grade bottom of the barrel, most EJ25's have 9mm except for a few around 2003-2006. If yours has a 7mm pump it's best to install a 9mm, in which case you'll need a crank seal and oil pump oring - get them from Subaru.

Mass air flow sensor on the airbox. I had the same issue.

if there is moisture in the mornigs, could be a cracked coil i guess. Also, look for oil on the wire boots. maybe leaky valve cover gaskets/oil shorting the high voltage.. (might not be a problem though on 2.2s ?)

p0420 can have a lot of causes, if the car has power-loss or other problems, I'd be tempted to address those first and hope the p0420 resolves after that. Sometimes a p0420 is only an exhaust leak - sometimes it really is a bad cat. conv. Converters are so expensive though - you want to eliminate every other possibility first. 302 is a misfire in cyl 2. many things can cause that, but of course plugs , plig wires would be the first place to look on an older car. Plugs should be NGK, wires should be OEM or Denso. vary from those and risks of problems increase a lot. many people have problems in that system with aftermarket parts. wires can sometimes be moved around. If the problem follws the wire to another cylinder - it's a bad wire. If not, could be a plug or burned valve or ???? Or bad wires/coils sometimes show up if squirted with a plant 'mister' of water at night while idling. any arcing is a failure in the wire or coil. Even looking at the plugs/comparing cylinders can be useful. An infrequently driven car, or car driven short distances can have a lot of carbon build-up in the cylinders.

Thank you Bennie, i wrote my message in english, but Google translated it automatically in french.... @dfoyl: i ve discussed with Ritchie, he doesn’t have the parts anymore....