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Tburnham18, If the motor can't move the sunroof to close it, then the mechanical wrench method (see your owner's manual) won't work either. From your description, the motor gears, or the two long toothed whips that pull/push the sunroof have stripped at the motor or broken, or the attachment points of the whips to the sunroof have broken or stripped. Your best move at this point is to pull down the headliner from the rear of the tailgate opening so you can disconnect the the motor entirely (generally pull the B and C pillars, pull the rear door weatherstripping half way down the door openings from the top, remove any ceiling plastic plugs, assist handles, overhead light assemblies. With the motor gone, you might be able to move the sunroof by hand back into its closed position, and then from outside the car tape it well into position all around its seal to prevent it moving. Be aware that only four 10 mm bolts hold the sunroof to its moving mechanism, so that if you can get it to the point forward where you can get at the 4 bolts, disconnect it, pop it into its opening from atop the car, properly block it in place from below, and then tape it in place from outside. (Take lots of tape with you so that if the wind starts pulling it off, you can put more down. Do not take the car to a dealership for a fix as you'll be looking at as much as $2500. Buy a complete sunroof system from a wrecking yard as they are easy to change out and may be as cheap as $75 to buy used. They are easy to change out but are time consuming (hence the $2500 dealership quote). I've done several sunroof assembly changeouts over the years, and the only special tool required is a Torx 55 bit for the shoulder belt anchors, in order to remove the B and C pillar moldings to drop the headliner. Good Luck!

On my 84 gl, the clutch pedal box bent. As the pedal became less efficient at pulling the cable, it felt like the clutch plate was going bad. Look ook at the assembly that holds the clutch pedal, and press the clutch pedal with your hand. Does the frame which holds the pedal deform? I wish I had done this before I replaced my clutch plate!

brus brother, Just to go along with this ... I use Map Gas instead of propane when doing the same job. The Blue propane tank torches just aren't hot enough for some rusted fasteners, while the Yellow Map Gas tanks of the same size burn much hotter, and they are fairly cheap as well.

I may have one for sale in the near future, not cheap but one of the cleanest in existence and running excellent. Check my posts for more...

You might be able to just reset the preload and get away with it. I'd definitely want to drop the front diff gear oil before I considered saving that transmission (if that has been backing out for awhile, it could have chewed up bearings and/or gears). If it's not a VDC (unique transmission), just grab a used transmission and toss it in. If it is a VDC, that may still be an option, but not nearly as easy...

It needs to be checked to be sure it is free flowing. And the condition of the fine fins and tubes. Also, if the hoses were original, make sure you find all of the cooling system hoses, and replace all of them. New radiator hoses don't stop a bypass hose that's 30 years old from failing. An EA82 engine has 7 cooling system hoses. The older ones had 1 or 2 fewer.

XT pedal box is a bit more complex than EA81 stuff. My bet is the cable or in the clutch fork

Get a good hose clamp on the trans hose. Don't want that one to blow off and fluid poor out.