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Low voltage codes. They will likely clear on their own after a few drive cycles. The initial crank but no start is normal for all the 04+ DBW cars. You have to power on the ECU then wait about 15 seconds for it to initialize. GD

I had the oil changed on my car one time and when I got home I had oil all over the under side of my hood. Turned out the oil filter was not correctly tightened and was making a mess. Check the easy things first.

ALso make sure your radiator is grounded with the little ground wire at the top of the radiator to the upper rad support panel. Engine temp gauge sensor is a 17mm hex head Cheers Bennie

I mean if you are already a tool - own it. GD

Basically. I find and identify every wire in the diagrams before I decide what to do with it. If it's not needed, I cut as much of it out as I can (I usually leave about 3", just in case I made a mistake). If it will be needed but not the connector, I leave as much as possible, and coil it up and mark it with masking tape. Yes, the EA81 harness is extremely simple by comparison, so just leave it as-is and splice in where you need to. There will be a half a dozen wires or so that are made redundant, but no big deal. Easiest to leave it all there to control body circuits (lights, dash, etc.).

Thanks guys----Well, I do like fixing stuff

If it has power steering it could be shaft seal leaking in the pump. And/or the pressure side fitting on the pump is loose & leaking. Had each of those happen. Oil on underside of the hood each time. Like others have implied, you'll constantly be fixing things as they fail. Parts are becoming scarce.

Has anyone changed all the o-rings in the system? Compressor is not usually a leak point. Mostly we see discharge hose crimp failures, and o-ring failures. I would buy a new discharge hose (high failure rate), and swap all the o-rings especially at the compressor fittings. Also don't disregard the shrader cores in the fittings. GD

The fan thermo switch is on the radiator. The sensor for the dash temp gauge is a single wire sensor with a hex head, screwed into the intake manifold near the engine thermostat.

Drivers side is up. No error there. Found a vac line off, and when I went into old school mechanic mode and started checking plugs for fouling I found my plugs desperately needed replacing. Replaced plugs, connected vac line and it ran pretty good. Hit it with a timing light (with the green plugs connected) and set to 20 BTC. Runs pretty good now. Have new cap and coil for it to put on next, since both are likely 30+ years old.

Some people like that look though!

Don't. You'll just look like a tool in a lowered 96 Outback. GD

Temp gauge could be a few things - check the wire is plugged snugly onto the sender at the thermostat area (this is where you’ll find it). Unplug the engine harness plug near the coil (it could be on the other side for the USDM, but I don’t know exactly), check for corrosion etc. it’s worth scratching up the pin sets to ensure a good connection. If everything under the bonnet checks out but the gauge doesn’t move, you can ground the temp wire and that gauge should go sky high if it works. If it doesn’t work I’m stumped - fit an aftermarket gauge (these are accurate rather than just an indication of temp). Cheers Bennie