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Anything that connects to the body harness. Power wires. Temperature and oil pressure.

I saw this when I didn't have time to write a reply, then it got pushed down far enough to loose track of... Anyway, The power thing, I had a flaky one, never got to troubleshooting it, the car got too rusted to bother. I ended up getting my 93 before I spent the time on the belt system. I have a set of the regular shoulder belts I intend to swap into my 93 that currently has the automatic belt, when they start to act up. I HATE those power belts. The lap belt, should pull out at normal speeds. If you pull it very quickly, it should lock. It's just a mechanical thing, RPM throws weights out [kind of like a governor] and engage a catch.

Since it cooled for "many weeks" the leak is small and you may not see the dye. Remove the caps on the low and high charging ports. Cover the hole with your thumb for about a minute. Then remove your thumb slowly and listen and feel for a pisst. That is how I found the leak on my Ranger. I could have used a rubber hose and a low pressure gauge, but my thumb worked. You also have the option to dump in a can of A/C Pro that contains stop leak. I don't care much for stop leaks, but I used it on our 96 Voyager when I could not find the leak. After 4 years I checked it for pressures and only added a few ounces of Freon.

It's 614147 for a Toyota. GD

Sleeve is from an aftermarket kit not factory. Take it off and examine the trans quill surface underneath the sleeve. if that area is relatively smooth, simply install the new throwout directly there. That is how they came factory. If that sleeve was put on because the quill is badly damaged (from spun TO bearing) then the repair sleeve is still needed, and you need the larger TO bearing that ifts over it. GD may have a part # for it IIRC.