Leaderboard

the problem with this line of thinking is you are assuming it's ALL the rings that are "bad". When in fact, the compression rings are usually fine, it's just the oil rings that are the problem. It's not a worn bore, or tired compression rings. Just oil. Often these engines burn oil simply because the owners don't change oil often enough, and the coked up burnt oil clogs the oil control rings. That's it. They are clogged and stuck in the land, and can't scrape away oil anymore so they burn. Worse for boxers because gravity doesn't help keep the oil down. The compression rings ARE FINE. The bores are fine. It's just clogged oil rings 90% of the time making them burn oil. So honing out the bore, roughly, by hand, with a ball hone will produce a WAAAY more uneven, non-uniform finish than the factory. Plus, to properly hone, you need the block split, and if you do that then you better be ready to polish the crank and putt in new bearings. Why? Just to control oil consumption? It's pointless. EJ na engines mostly don't lose compression to ring wear.......they just sometimes need new oil control rings.

technically, yes, the tread depth will affect circumference - but.. it is the overall circumference that will affect the tranny operation - you want all 4 tires to be within 1/4" maximum. a donut spare is NOT going to be the same circumference as a regular tire - even if the tread depth is the same you can have two different tires with the exact same tread depth, yet still be different in measured circumference - this happens frequently with different brands - which is why it is always recommended to have all 4 tires be the same brand, model and treadwear on a Subaru.

put the spare on the back - front tires should match, and run with the fuse in place - short term only. fwiw - tread depth has little to do with how the tranny copes - it is circumference that you should be concerned with - the distance around the tire.

New update. I pulled the oil pump this afternoon, and the oil discharge port was half blocked by a large gob of what looks like ultra grey, and the oil pump back cover had one screw backed out.

They will pump back up in operation. Replace the o-rings on the OD of the lifters. The hole being half plugged limits the flow of oil to the entire engine. Including the lifters. GD

If you have to fab them anyhow, would suggest using captive nuts and bolt down both sides of the U-bracket. Seen many times the bent tabs tear out of the slots.....the design of the bar means those bushings can see ALOT of force when articulated. I would also recommend adding a tab across the arch of the u-brackets........perpendicular across them, with ends folded down. This will keep the bushings from walking out the side.....something I've also seen several times with this style bar.

I’ve used a number of GMB kits before and have a few GMB timing boxes now. in general I’d avoid them for long term vehicles, valuable cars, interference engines, etc. I’ll install them on rusted out beaters that have maybe two years left before the frame rots through. Don’t get me wrong, they’re decent enough and don’t have high failure rates so you’d probably get by fine. but nearly every aftermarket kit has higher failure rates than Subaru OEM. GMB doesn’t have a magic supply of OEM cheap parts no one else can find. Those two piece tensioners are like $150, id wonder if that’s s knock off or rebuild and looks like OEM. When it comes to parts that will strand you, or interference engines, I prefer the highest quality you can get if they don’t cost much more anyway. If someone begged me to install a GMB kit for them and they want to save a few bucks on your car i would but first I recommend to save a few dollars: 1. Subaru belt and pulleys only (no tensioner) 2. Subaru belt and the lower cogged idler (by far it is the one that fails) and I’ll inspect the the others. The other ones very rarely fail. If you can DIY they can be inspected in 2 years or 40,000 miles in less than an hour, they’re super easy. Those two piece tensioners don’t fail, I’ve never seen it but I’m sure it happens sometimes. They were routinely reused and I’d even convert new Subaru’s to the old style before they got old. If yours is in good shape, the seal isn’t wet - It happens so rarely and you already have a water pump, just buy the timing belt and pulleys from Subaru. I’d almost rather keep the OEM original tensioner and not install a new aftermarket unless it’s OEM new (not rebuilt) 3. If they didn’t like those options I’d still install the GMB kit without much concern but to me there’s just no compelling reason to do so and depending on the car/person I’d tell them I’m not touching it if there’s issues ! Haha That said - I only work for free and don’t charge labor, so it’s easier for people to accept the higher cost parts. If you’re paying labor then the higher Costs changes the decision making process.

That spider , one scary muthuh.

Wow !!! In 2019 you scored that well on a gen one vehicle ! You did the right thing! Congrats on the score. And the Peugeot looks bitchin to me. Surf wagon.

If you hone a Subaru engine you will accomplish nothing and will cause more wear as the rings have to polish the bores back down. Period. End of discussion. I haven't honed an engine for rering over a decade. None of them use any significant amount of oil. I've seen plenty of honed engines that do though. GD

And now you know why I told you to do that. GD

In my experience, over many years and with many cars, once a battery starts playing up, you might as well replace it sooner rather than later. You can try and be nice to the battery, but it won't buy you much time.

I was a tooth off on the Timing belt. I cant beleive I did that. Oh well. Thanks for the help everyone!