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Subaru parts are built by other companies like NTN, NSK, etc to Subaru’s specifications. These companies can then also supply those to other companies for resale. The quality doesn’t have to be the same for Subaru supplied parts and aftermarket supplies parts for the exact same part. but Subaru is small, and parts market not discerning enough, to make it worth their time to do anything but make one part for both. Though storage, packaging, delivery, and other non manufacturing qualities factors could skip Subaru QA. But this is all uncertain conjecture...moving along.... that doesn’t matter - the point is that yes those parts are available from other companies and yes you can often find the Subaru OEM pulleys aftermarket. Like AISIn kits. One issue is suppliers putting together timing kits don’t keep using the same company for the same parts. Gates could use OEM pulleys for a time and then other brands later, it’s still the same kit for the same motor for their parts catalog. That moving target can be problematic. But buying one at a time and verifying the manufacturer will help get the right part each time if you’re unsure what a given company supplies.

Mitchy Look at the two smooth pullies in both pictures you posted. In the top pic they are side by side and one is flipped over in the second pic one is on the left and one on the right. In the first pic they have 2 bearings per pully. In the second pic of the GMB and you'll notice they only have 1 bearing per pully. I tried GMB once and those two pullies lasted less than a year. The water pump from the kit leaked at the shaft seal in 3 weeks. The belt was Dayco so I reused it on both repairs.

Is 2010 new enough to be one of the ones where all hell breaks loose when you change the battery or jump start it?

All this money talk and you’re buying wiper fluid?! You're in for a treat! Many gas stations have FREE squeegees, find one, or carry a box of DIY wet free napkins from McDonalds! free and take less time than battery research, equipment, and blowing up batteries with salt, and it’s free free free! I commend your focus on data. Get some good data and let the world know. data driven, useful, and economic info is good. Keep in mind battery life is erratic and statistically a sample size of a few is all but meaningless. If my battery lasts 5 years and cost $74 that’s .00074 cents per mile, one of the most benign costs of vehicle ownership. NICO genius boosts = who cares when I replace my battery! maximize battery life with no risk of stranding, multiple uses and functionality, all in a tiny package. Win win win win win......

At least imageshack isn't doing that crap. Too bad you're so far away Steptoe, other wise I'd sell you these for really cheap. '85-86 EA GL-10 arms. Wonder if ParcelMonkey delivers to your area? Edit: EMS Parcel Post is $175 for 30 lbs Nevermind...

Yep. I've got 2 XT's fully parted and stored and one Brat. Also a whole EA81 front clip. Wish I'd have kept my turbo coupe, but there were too many vehicles here. Fired up my 87.5 XT GL10 a week ago to for the first time in 6 years. Horrible, I know but it fired off in less than 30 seconds. One of these days I'll get the damned EJ swap done.

Don't be afraid of grabbing an XT6! Someone grow a pair and bring this car back to life! Pics and price? You can post your ad in the for sale section, but the mediators seem flexible and will let you know if it's not allowed here. There are still some vital engine NOS parts to be found, you just need internet searching skills. As far as the 2.7 H6, I found every NOS seal to replace after doing a timing kit. Dayco timing belts work well, the only timing kit part that is nowhere to be found is the idler pulley. I found an NOS water, oil pump and lifters also. There are very good aftermarket head gaskets available. Ditch the broken pneumatic front struts for later year Legacy struts. Rear struts, ball joints, bushings, brakes are available aftermarket. Engine sensors are also available, yet expensive... IACV, MAF and TPS, remanufactured. Even the hybrid electric steering pump can be rebuilt with new brushes, the required specific power steering fluid is also available. As long as the frame is not rotted to death and the body panels don't need gallons of Bondo, this could be a decent Winter project for a Subaru enthusiast. But as GeneralDisorder said, don't expect to get back even close to what you have into it, the general rule of most classics.

I had the same issue with my 86 BRAT. A new radiator cap and a thorough Radiator flush did the trick.

OK......today was the day. I sold my Subaru, and I got my asking price too. But the best part for me was knowing it was going to a local buyer and that he is a Subaru nut like the rest of us. He plans on taking out the 1.8 carb engine.....rebuilding it.......and putting in back into his other (less than steller condition one) GL. My old car is going to get the deluxe treatment with the upgraded Fuel Injection type......since its in better shape overall. I'm just glad it went to a new home to be saved once again and will continue to live on.........was a great car I will always remember as "The RedRoo". I'll still be active on this board, got moms 85 to still keep going, lol. The money from the sale will buy some much wanted accessories for my Honda Element, so its a "win win" for all involved.

The most basic, cheapest and easiest service item has been mentioned - the radiator cap. It not only meant to hold the wet stuff in, it holds in the pressure that builds up. Increasing the pressure increases the wet stuffs boiling temp If this ten dollar part has failed on you it will cause your problems described You could possibly drive one of these EA81 for years and miles from new without a gauge and have no problems. Bit riskier trying at this age

Had my first outing with the car at a hillclimb event. Went OK but there are some things I need to change and the engine was a bit on the rich side.

Sorry fellas, haven't gotten a measurement on the tires.......but I did upload an example of their performance

So I got my RX injectors back from RC engineering. The results were good. Interesting to look at the before and after picture you can see the cleaned on the right. The gap is wider, and they all came back a different color? wierd off my donor engine never actually ran in my rx: before/ after 221--Dripping/ 238 exc 230--good /240-exc 235--good /242-exc 1 with electrical damage replaced with injector from car 220--good /240-exc Interesting how the one that was actually on my car, had a good spray pattern but, the worst cc/min