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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/20/19 in all areas

  1. I would do open race 7207's. They are available in much higher quality. I would use Amsoil synthetic waterproof grease. The open races allow more grease in the knuckle and you can control what grease gets used. GD
    1 point
  2. Do keep in mind, anything EA82 and older is getting to be hard to find parts for. More and more go NLA both OEM and aftermarket.
    1 point
  3. The sohc ej22 is actually narrower than an ea82. The ea82 is stupidly wide for what it is, it's as big as a DOHC EJ. Probably easiest to keep the original trans and find an ea81 or ea71 for bolt in simplicity.
    1 point
  4. Don't do oversized pistons. Just install new rings. If the block is damaged get another. GD
    1 point
  5. From what I understand the later 'fat case' EA71s with the side starter are the same bolt pattern as the EA81. The top starter (much more common) do not work with EA81 engines. Always use the flywheel that matches the trans that you choose/have.
    1 point
  6. My '77 coupe has an EZ30. Lots work there., But point is you really can do anything if you have some skills, time and access to metal. EA81 will drop in with relative ease. Some crossmember work, depending on trans choice. And steering clearance check. I would recommend using one for a quicker route to more acceptable 'Daily Driver' power. EA82 needs trans crossmember and engine mount hole widening. The engine will technically fit, but the front frame rails will be 'uncomfortably' close. Hitting the accelerator hard can bash the plastic timing belt guard if the mounts are not perfect... Which they are not. EA82 trans is almost guaranteed to hit the steering rag joint. With that engine getting to the distributor is a pain around the brake master cylinder. If your particular Master cylinder has the lines aiming straight down, you will have to switch it to one with them aiming to the right. Can't directly state as to the EJ, never done it. However you likely need most, if not all, of the mods required to run EA82, as they measure close in size.
    1 point
  7. That’s going to have the side starter. Lots of options if you care to search. Most folks are going to upgrade to a 90-95 EJ22 , but you’ll have to go by budget , availability , time you’re willing to devote , space to work , etc. Not experienced but I think the EA82 will fit but be very tight as I recall. Archives will tell you. Did meet a guy who drove a long way to off-road / meet with other USMB member and his Gen II Brat has the XT6 engine stuffed into it.
    1 point
  8. If it's a 1.6 it's the ea71. If the starter is on top, then you need another similar ea71. If the starter is on the side though, you can put either another ea71, ea81 or even an ea82 in it. A carbed ea82 will drop right in.
    1 point
  9. I hope this helps: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/EJ swap in EA81_EA82.pdf
    1 point
  10. Yes - Napa probably does have a cheap Taiwan-made bearing for $15 - but it will be a plain 6207. It will not be a 6207-2RS-C3. The "-2RS" calls out a double-sealed bearing which will be pre-greased and sealed for life. The "-C3" component calls for an electric motor bearing internal clearance spec. If you simply go to a bearing supplier you will get 5 times the bearing (Japanese or US made) for the same money. You will also save on grease and mess as you need only apply a light grease to the new wheel seals, etc - since the 2RS bearings come pre-greased and sealed. This also provides further protection from the elements. If you really want to never do wheel bearings again - get yourself a set of 7207's and set it up for axial thrust loading. Though you may have to play with shims on the inner race pre-load spacer to get it right. I found that a .001" shim ring on the spacer brought my hub temps right down where I wanted them after a test drive. As far as greasing if you use open bearings - pack each bearing completely full and fill the chamber around the spacer about 1/3. Ideally you want about 1/3 of the chamber filled with grease when it heats up and flows. Too much grease is a bad thing as it doesn't allow for expansion. 1/3 chamber capacity is the standard for bearing greaseing. GD
    1 point
  11. Honestly I Would, but I dont have the space and it would be to costly to ship it home. Runs great too only 120K on it
    0 points
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