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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/25/19 in all areas

  1. have you tried vegetable oil? I know, seems too simple but it has worked for me many times removing adhesive residue. keep applying it and use gentle abrasion with a cloth to remove top layers and then continue deeper.
    1 point
  2. From the factory service manual. Download it from Subaru Techinfo. That said. You can't diagnose it. You don't have the proper tools (diagnostic smoke machine, special diagnostic harnesses, select monitor to perform bi-directional control of valves and solenoids..... all this stuff costs thousands of $$$$$). GD
    1 point
  3. No it hasn’t, yes it can. There are no kits or write ups or easy methods. You’ll need mad skills or a thick wallet - which was your plan? Custom mounts, trans adapter, and fittings for radiator, AC, alt, steering, and then custom wiring.
    1 point
  4. I am going to stand by my last sentence. Don't blame the grease YOU put on, blame the grease someone else OMITTED. A spline should fit the hub within a few .0001's of an inch. Not .001, .0001. There should be virtually no play perceptible. One of the sources of wear is called fretting corrosion. The spline wears as it transfers torque, because the teeth of the shaft bond to the teeth in the hub, then break away when the torque reverses. It is just a minute amount of bonding, microsopic. The wear appears as corrosion products. The wear is similar to that seen by gear teeth. If you look at a spline, it even looks like a gear, the shape is the same. Lubrication stops the spline from bonding, and prevents wear. Once the wear has started, the play gets worse and worse as the loads seen by the splines get higher and the torque reversals more obvious. The fretting increases. It may get to the point where it isn't really fretting anymore, just plain wear as the hub slops around. http://www.engineeringtalk.com/news/skf/skf162.html http://www.hghouston.com/Technical%20FAQs/TFAQ106.html I am not just making this up, as the links above prove.
    1 point
  5. I haven't done my rear bearings yet, but when I did the front one I got a big brass drift punch, basically just a big brass dowel, about 3/4 inch across and a foot long. I took the knuckle out and layed it on some beefy scrap wood. Then I banged all around the outer race until the bearings came out. Used the same punch to bang the new bearings back in. I actually only replaced a couple of the bearings. Give them a good cleaning and listen to them spin. Follow your ears when deciding which to replace.
    1 point
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