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Like he said be ultra careful on removal and install. Replace them. They’re dirt cheap from Subaru, egregiously puke oil when they leak which isn’t rare, and you’ll get clean new threads. If you end up replacing the engine or heads, swap the new switches over. Two codes is too coincidental on a part that doesn’t often throw codes and on an already questionable engine. Maybe two did fail, but I’d clear the codes and see if they come back or test them first. My guess is something like the engine took a dump due to compromised oil and those switches or the codes were collateral damage or artifacts of something else. But hopefully that WAG is wrong and you find an easy fix.

swap the sensors left bank with right bank to test if the problem follows. DO NOT over-torque the sensors! the 'boss' they go in on the head can crack - read several posts about it.

I started with the pump from a spfi Loyale and when that failed I replaced it with a late 80's f150 external pump CARTER P74028.

make sure you have a Subaru thermostat! aftermarket t-stats are not recommended.

You've got DOHC head bolts from an EJ20g or EJ25D. I made this mistake once years ago and it's excactly what happens. Since the DOHC bolts are deeper in the heads, under the camshafts basically, they are too short and only engage about 4or 5 threads instead nearly 20. when used in the SOHC engines. I will bet money on it. Proper length head bolts won't strip that easily. Unless maybe your Torque Wrench is WAAAY of calibration and you really put 100 lbs on it. Now, you've got 2 striped holes though........And if it indeed is a result of too short bolts, you've still got a good amount of useable threads deeper in the holes.....not enough for the stock bolts. They would only catch the threads on the very tip.......but, tell you what........7/16th fine thread all thread is so close to M11 that the threads match for about 2" Cut the 7/16th fine thread (high grade) to length of the entire hole int the block +thickness of head+ an extra 1~1-1/2" and use nuts. Viola! redneck head studs. If you drive those studs ALL the way to the bottom of the striped holes, they will hold. My 2.2 in my wheeler is running this setup. Been great for 5 years, probably 25k~35k miles so far.

You shouldn’t. It’s there to only indicate you’re on boost. If you want accuracy get an aftermarket boost gauge that actually plugs into the intake manifold Cheers Bennie

Almost anything will work. The EJ22 had pretty mild fuel requirements. Just need something that'll handle fuel injection and inline mounting. I've used stock SPFI EA82 pumps, universal inline pumps, and once I used something for an '80s Ford Grand Squire wagon... Being able to put a 90 degree fitting off one end (pressure end in stock config, IIRC) makes putting it in the stock location easiest.

My RX-RA is running a 255lph Walbro, but I haven't been able to find 90-degree fittings to match the factory hose routing, so there are some "pulse dampening loops" in my tank-to-pump fuel hose.

I used an external efi fuel pump. Over here the VN commodore 5L V8 unit does the job easy. I’m sure stateside has something very similar. I enlarged my fuel line with the use of a supply line from another L series - the MPFI vehicle’s already have a larger return line, so the carb supply line fits the bill well as a return line. Most getaway without doing this though. Cheers Bennie

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk7VWcuVOf0