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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/05/19 in all areas

  1. Gone are the motor gear and track. It's now a motor and cable 1/16" or so. One strand of the cable broke and jammed things up. Much easier to remove but not as reliable. Later
    2 points
  2. i passed on the 100 dollar one that was outside. the one i was asking about was the one i just bought so i hope it works. it has only been off the car for a few weeks and was kept in a garage i bought it from a subaru tech and it came from a 2004 outback 2.5 according to the info its a 4.44 transmission and should work just like the original im hoping. has 146,000 on it. ill know wensday if i made the right choice when i put the new transmission in
    1 point
  3. Find a socket that fits tight inside the dowel. Then you can grab it tight with vice grips and wiggle it out.
    1 point
  4. Car is up and running well. Owner is taking it on a 100 mile drive today. Moral of the story.....Fully clear ALL oil passages in the block of ANY old oil before startup of reassembled engine. In this case, I left the "block prep" part of the process up to the owner, and he may not have cleared out the inside of the crankcase well after cleaning the block. IDK.....Probably wont' ever fully know. But for now, everything seems OK to go.
    1 point
  5. strange, never read of this before. are you the only person with access to the car? could a daughter's boyfriend or some other person have been trying to do some maintenance on the car? (I raised 3 daughters. boyfriends are idiots. One left her car's emergency jack and tools at the side of the road.)
    1 point
  6. dude weld a bolt in to a piece of pipe and smash the other end done or bend the old one back in to shape and sleave it done thats a easy fix i riped the mounts off the body on my loyale lol now the entire set up is adjustable and that rod is about 3ft long with rod ends on both ends
    1 point
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