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Here you are - I highlighted the crossover pipe and the three bolt holes for it. Also, the hard to reach bolt I mentioned, which should be installed early in reassembly.

So I did this repair yesterday and just thought I would do a quick review which might help others with this. My parts list was about $200, which included the black crossover pipe, small rubber hoses, thermostat, manifold gaskets, throttle gasket (not used), rubbery egr gasket (not used) and two jugs of Subaru coolant, but NO sensors. I should have bought the rigid egr gasket which connect the vertical pipe to the egr w two bolts. The repair took me 5.5 hours, which includes a lunch while the radiator drained out. I was working on a hoist. Subaru says I need the coolant sensor KA140, which is the more expensive one. They did not have one in stock. The one special tool I recommend is long plier designed to remove the rubber hoses - they are hard to reach. All the bolts are 8, 10, 12 and 14mm. The main thing is that you should separate the manifold from the silver fuel lines assembly (4 bolts) which run in the front and down the sides in an area under the intake manifold. I am NOT talking about the fuel rails which connect the fuel injectors, I did not touch those. Do not loosen or remove the fuel lines or rubber connectors, they are flexible enough to hinge up out of the way. You will take out two bolts so the egr is free of the pipe which runs down to the exhaust manifold area - the little gasket will fall down (it is hard to reassemble, I held it with needle nose pliers until I could get the first bolt started - buy a new gasket, and maybe a spare). Once you get enough vacuum tubes and a couple electrical connections undone, you will be able to tip the manifold / fuel lines back and lift a little. At this time, remove the right side bolt on the fuel line bracket which is hard to reach behind a/c component - the one on the left is super easy. Now wire the manifold back out of the way, and lift the fuel line assembly enough to access below it, but no so much as to twist or tear the rubber fuel lines you are hinging on. You do not need to remove the throttle or the egr valve, just move them with the intake manifold as a whole. Now is a good time to drain the radiator fluid. You should now have pretty decent access to the black crossover pipe, which runs left to right directly behind the alternator. It connects 4 rubber hoses, which you should replace (except for the large one in the rear which runs through the firewall - this is where the special pliers will help) - dont cut or damage the original. For the record, I did not see a significant difference between the original and the remodeled crossover pipe, it must be subtle. On reassembly. Replace the 6 intake manifold gaskets. As you are lowering everything down into place, be sure to install the fuel line screw (front right) while you can still reach it. Lower the whole assembly into place and drop a few bolts into the manifold holes. Before tightening down the manifold, be sure to get that pesky little egr gasket back in place. After that, the rest of the assembly is pretty fast. I replaced the thermostat, which of course drained more fluid. My refill was just under 6 qts, but I expect to top it off a little today. So, just plan on plenty of time, don’t drop anything into the engine holes, and make sure to properly “burp” the coolant system by following Subaru’s instructions in the official manual. I hope that helps someone. I will post a photo from my desktop in a little while.

1. No. The owners manual of some (or all) EA82s mentions that the oil pressure reading “nearly zero” at idle is not a problem. They’re not super accurate or diagnosis machines. 2. That story may not mean mich regarding additives or HLAs. I’ve seen ticking go away and come back later, happens *all* the time. More than likely the additive had nothing to do with it or was only a minor bandaid and the ticking came back sometime down the road. You didn’t own and drive it for 5 more years to find out. considering that oil pump resealing is usually the long term fix, and most likely would have been in 1996 when the car was young, this is almost certainly the case for that car. sell the car to a mechanic usually means dirt cheap - no mechanic pays top dollar for an average widely available car. they pay pennies to the dollar. they get their pick of cheap cars every week. Just stopped at one and guy got a nice turbo legacy for less than a grand. He’s all smiles and talk.

not sure those are universal camber bolts for all subarus around that year i guess. they can be some different looking but they all do same thing

I use brake cleaner for most of my cleaning. The bolt with threads cut works well on female threaded holes.

Hot exhaust, running poorly....I’d want to rule out clogged converter. Doesn’t happen often on Subaru’s but easy check for a hot exhaust.

Check any custom or disturbed wiring. That’s a very common cause of issues. 2002s run perfectly fine with the rear O2 disconnected. In 2002 I don’t think the ECU looks at the rear O2 except as a simple switch to trigger the CEL. disconnect it and see if anything changes. How about a clogged catalytic converter? Disconnect the exhaust somewhere just for 20 seconds to see if it runs better. Check the knock sensor, pull it and look for cracks/rust on the bottom of the base. One bolt, takes like a few minutes. If you think it’s the ECU a used one is plug and play for 2002, remove old, install new, done

our ratings are an average of Resaerch and Molecular. many othe markets use molecular only I think??? someone else may have the specifics better than I do but, my gut says your 91 is appropriate. that said, the ECU DOES get dynamically 'remapped' with data from the knock sensor. There are ways to determine if knock events are occurring and if corrections have been made to the ignition timing. front O2/A:F sensors? Do not use generic or Bosch sensors. OEM or Denso only. Also, I think coolant can 'poison' some sensors so, make sure the car is otherwise in good health - no coolant issues and working PCV valve/system.

Yes you can swap in this manner. Also swap the crank gear and cam sprocket.from the 2005. O.

Petrol does fine for preliminary part cleaning, use gloves; it carcinogenic. Water with degreaser is also effective. Good old elbow grease with a stiff brush for crusty externals. I also use denatured alcohol for ‘thoroughly de-greasing mating surfaces before assembly’. Female threads are cleaned well, as already mentioned, by using an old undamaged bolt with a tidy saw-cut across the end threads and some deburring. This scoops out the oily grime from engine blocks effectively. Repeat as necessary and clean with paper or cloth and some air. I have also used a sliced nut in a socket to clean and hone bolt threads successfully. I would not use a cutting tap unless the thread was deformed or damaged.

Probably same as MEK around here, great for cutting oil/grease, that stuff will melt rubber and some plastics. It leaves a residue so go over everything with brake cleaner just before putting on rtv.

Yeah sorry, metho = methalyated spirits. It’s a white alcohol, not for drinking! I’m not sure what it’s called over your way (if it is named differently). Cheers Bennie

If you're going to use a tap to chase the threads, be sure it is a thread-restoring/thread-cleaning tap, NOT a thread-cutting tap.