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Also would like to update anyone interested. She has been running perfectly smooth since the PB fix and the OEM cable

Steptoe (and others) ....a very good introduction to tricky removal process. I took the seat out. thus I could get my body laid back and looking up at assembly ....partially blocked by steering column shaft. But could see end of clutch cable in place. My hands are smallish....but taking out entire assembly may be the go. thanks for instructions. (my service manual gets a bit complicated sometimes )

Finally Passed Smog.... Smog technician was surprise on how clean the wagon is running. Now I could move one to other simpler things the wagon needs. Thanks for the help and knowledge on this post.

Hmmmm.... If it helps, on my EA82 car and engine I used the TM2 on I saw 109°C , the temp needle just nudging the red zone of Subaru gauge I was running cardboard complete coverage of radiator , following engine guru instructions to set the Sealwel magic black block - it worked sealing a source of steam that was there after a cooling system cleaner used. I then serviced heads, new genuine HG and still got steam - hence Sealwel I never wanna see 109 but suffered no damage at that temp for just a few minutes. Your thermostat is supposed to be fully open at its set temp - 95°C which is supposed to be the temp petrol engines are most fuel efficient. I set my fan on at 92, off at 91 Use Google for F conversion My auto 4WD 3 speed used to hang onto gears longer than I liked. When I converted to manual box, I found the vacuum operated do dad on the RHS if trans just above the pan - loosely threaded in and weaping fluid. Maybe check your vacuum line, connections and this do dad is not loose

Whole pedal box assy out:

That is the problem with these cars. You pretty much have to do all the repairs yourself to keep them low cost. And that also means storing and collecting NLA parts. If that happened to one of my wagons, I'd go to the shed, pull out a bumper and bolt it on. Insurance wouldn't even know.

Why claim insurance anyway? Get a new bar, replace, move on, insurance company doesn’t need to know... Cheers Bennie

Kick panel down under usual refers to the panel on the outer side edge of each footwell. Trying to recall how I did my EA81 cables, but keep finding myself in a fetal position on the floor or just similar but upright and rocking on my bum Turn the music up, banish all visitors, lock yourself in shed, remove drivers seat ( it is EA81 body not spacious EA82) The plastic panel above your feet - give it a name of your own- remove it's screws up front , two of, unclip from above brake pedal and near bonnet release. Look forward for four 12 mm nuts that hold brake booster and pedal box together Disconnect ACC cable above pedal, may need to release at carb first - yes you do. Two 12 mm bolts securing steering column to pedal box front Disconnect the safety pin connector at brake pedal, booster rod. Twist pedal box out gently pulling clutch cable through. This tricky task makes clutch cable install a dream. or find little kid with both a technical bent and strong fingers and do cable in place without pedal box removal, but then you may discover box has break, cracks and flex

Yes, it is too high. A 12 volt lead acid battery should be charged at 14 volts. Any higher and it will eat away the lead plates and boils away the acid. That higher charge voltage is the main reason you see so many newer vehicles with burned out headlights and parking lights. The older cars like our 95 charge at 13.8 volts. I very seldom have a burned out bulb. I think two parking lights in the last ten years. Never a headlight. Usually it is just a corroded connection from moisture and age or heat.

When I've had like symptoms, it's been a trans change. You can fix them, but it's way cheaper and faster to grab a good used one. www.car-part.com

some odd things can happen from 2 sources; frayed/shorted wires in the body-to-hatch rubber boot. and brake light bulbs or corrosion in the bulb sockets.

I think the more you take a specialist sort of vehicle to either wrong specialist, or an ordinary workshop - the more you will want to learn to diagnose, fix and maintain your beast yourself. Maybe mount the oil filter sensor to a magnet to make oil changes easier. Grease monkeys likely to not expect an oil filter sensor. Do your own oil changes now. An overheat often kills engines and transmissions. Maybe a compression test for engine now a good starting point?

Personally, the flashing wouldn't bother me,,,,,,,but,,,,,,on my Wife's car-----AHHH. Every time she drives it she would ask me when are you going to fix that stupid flashing light. Her car is started many times every day.

It was infact the pedal box that was the CAUSE. A sidenote was the cables terrible quality. Basically just welded this plate on the wall that was cracked and bending. Strong as hell now.

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I have a brat in a storage unit with a bunch of parts. I was tboned in the brat 5 months after I got it. Insurance did nothing.