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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/31/19 in all areas

  1. The Subaru dealer's opinion: "confirmed customer concern, transfer clutch is not releasing properly, causing a tight binding and rumble noise on sharp turn. Removed transfer clutch and plates looked discolored like they were getting hot." They replaced the transfer clutch plates and piston, retainer spring, seals, snap rings, shims, oil seal, and changed the CVT fluid. "Test drove, noise and feel felt better but still a little present, transfer clutch needs to finish breaking in." It was all covered under the CVT warranty. They said drive it for a few weeks, and if the problem comes back, they will replace the entire CVT with a new one, under warranty.
    3 points
  2. Check the Coolant Temperature Sensor. It can cause all sorts of drivability problems, especially that vary or depend on temperature. And it can do this without causingthe CEL to light.
    1 point
  3. For a few weeks of online research, I looked into youtube videos of people soldering stuff (bluetooth units, AUX) onto the back of stock radios as well as that iSimple thing that you recommend (based on your earlier recommendation). My goal was just to get sound from my phone to my 2003 Legacy's stock radio while keeping the stock head and having good quality. After reading/watching more reviews, my solution turned out to be an FM bluetooth adapter. Some of those units must have improved a lot in quality since you tried them, because the quality is essentially perfect (as good the FM radio coming through the speakers, haven't tried a CD yet in the stock deck) on my car with this $13-$17 unit. I'm now glad I didn't waste my time trying to solder stuff on the back of the radio head unit. It is as clean looking as what I had before (I had a USB charger plugged into the cigarette lighter already, this was just a simple swap). I selected FM107.9 for the frequency because that's always far from any station that I listen to (typically public radio on the lower end of the dial), even on road trips, and the higher frequency might (?) keep quality marginally higher than in the lower frequencies. In 6 weeks thus far, I haven't noticed any interference with FM. It's a 100% perfect solution for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJ7DHMP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    1 point
  4. I don't have any specific experience with your model, but I've added an Aux input into my last 3 Subarus with stock radios, in 3 different ways. Look up your specific radio (either with a part number/manufacturer on the faceplate, or use your VIN on parts.subaru.com and look up the subaru number there, the former will likely be more helpful, though). Subaru doesn't make their own radios, and they use many different manufacturers, so there will be different answers depending what radio you have. Every Subaru radio I've looked at in the last 25 years, has had an unused CD changer plug on the back. The McIntosh in our '04 Outback VDC, I bought a yatour digital music adapter, which plugged right in, and was super simple, but cost like $100. I had a '97 Legacy that had a pretty simple input, I was able to make a quick adapter using a rocker switch and a panel mount audio jack. When I looked into it on my '00 Outback, I don't think the Yatour one was available (or I just didn't want to spend $100 on a $500 car), and when I looked into a DIY, I discovered it was a digital signal, so would require a converter. I found someone who made a converter for it designed to integrate into an ipod or thumb drive, but was way overkill for what I wanted. I ended up just using a hardwired signal modulator. Works the same way as one of those crappy remote modulators, but it's actually wired inline with your antenna, so it gets a much better connection to the radio, and disconnects the car antenna so you don't get any interference. I got this one, and their install kit, simple install, works great.
    1 point
  5. No one is saying blends are a problem. There's just no benefit or point to using them. Changing every 3,000 miles is a fine recommendation and has merit but it isn't due to dust/pollution. There's 10's of thousands of UOA samples showing that's not the case. Let the data speak and get a UOA if you're unsure - at 3,000 miles the oil will test way under limits on an average daily driver with no current issues. Manufacturers have intervals far exceeding 3k - often double or more. Subaru itself says 6,000 miles and most individuals exceed that as well, and Subaru's easily run 200,000 miles all day long many 10's or 100's of thousands of times across the united states. If an engine has so much silicon/dirt intrusion that the oil needs changed in 3,000 miles then something is terribly wrong and will probably damage the engine if it's continued to be run even with 3k change intervals. What was said earlier is spot on: Low oil is far more problematic than any other oil decision, changing often helps keep an eye on leaks/consumption.
    1 point
  6. tried to determine which of the two clutch assemblies was for my car. i have a VIN number that is not USA ...so they wouldn't help me. The parts code is identical but there is a description for two. (different lengths cable) I have a Station Wagon. I am GUESSING that SW means Stationwagon. I have a 4WD and I think I have a GL series. here in Australia they call my vehicle a 1990 Sportswagon but I believe it is the L- series. I am thinking of ordering (thru somebody) from the USA but only if I can dertermine exxactly what cable I need. thanks for any input. Rae
    1 point
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