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update. im not sure witch axle it was i replaced both front axles today and the wobble is gone.

Sure. Automatics pop right out. Pop out stubby shaft and install another one by tapping it in with a rubber mallet or wood block. They’re the same on both sides and all of them from like 1988-2004 are all the same part For automatics. If the seal is leaking you replace the front diff side seal. Remove that large retaining ring. Mark exactly how it’s oriented before moving it. Then count exactly how many turns it takes to remove it. Install new seal. Reinstall the retaining ring the same number of turns and to the exact same orientation mark noted before you removed it. Don’t mess it up or the front diff will fail. That ring accounts for bearing preload and ring and pinion play.

dead coil? I think the cyl pair 1&2 share a coil due to waste spark.

If you’re willing to do a block swap I’d knurl or replace the pistons in the EJ25 and keep that instead of swapping blocks.

No one is saying blends are a problem. There's just no benefit or point to using them. Changing every 3,000 miles is a fine recommendation and has merit but it isn't due to dust/pollution. There's 10's of thousands of UOA samples showing that's not the case. Let the data speak and get a UOA if you're unsure - at 3,000 miles the oil will test way under limits on an average daily driver with no current issues. Manufacturers have intervals far exceeding 3k - often double or more. Subaru itself says 6,000 miles and most individuals exceed that as well, and Subaru's easily run 200,000 miles all day long many 10's or 100's of thousands of times across the united states. If an engine has so much silicon/dirt intrusion that the oil needs changed in 3,000 miles then something is terribly wrong and will probably damage the engine if it's continued to be run even with 3k change intervals. What was said earlier is spot on: Low oil is far more problematic than any other oil decision, changing often helps keep an eye on leaks/consumption.

Alright here's how it looks now. Figured out photo hosting. Choke on Choke off Under the hood (will need to route it a bit neater, but it works for now) At the firewall At the carb, I tried using the attachment on the arm but it wouldn't tighten up to hold the small wire so I looped it through and around the arm for now Under the dash to the right of the colum was a hole the I used A few other install pics The GL wagon is back in the road and saved from the junkyard!!! Let me know if anyone has questions or comments! I used the Dorman manual choke kit with the 9 ft cable I cut off about 3 feet and still need to cut more after re routing.