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I did have the cam position sensor unbuckled when I was replacing the fill tube o-ring and valve cover gaskets, so I popped it off again and cleaned a bit of residue from the connections and reconnected to make sure it was solid. That seemed to solve the P0340. I followed the FSM info on checking the resistance of the primary and secondary connections on the ignition coil. The secondary (across 1 & 2 contacts and 3 & 4 contacts) checked out within the range in the FSM, but I was unable to get any resistance readings through the primary pins combos (1 & 2 and 2 & 4). I went to a salvage yard today and checked a couple of coil packs there, there were two that mimicked the same behavior (secondary resistance within range, unable to get any resistance readings across primary pin combos). I bought one of the coil packs and fired up the Foz a couple of hours ago and no codes are coming up and the engine runs smooth, so there do not seem to be any misfires. One test drive was without trouble. I'm going to take it on a few more spins around the 'hood and make sure it does not pop codes again. Interesting problem with an interesting assortment of suggestions. Thanks to all for the input.

Gentlemen, I purchased a genuine Subie Block Heater kit for my 2017 OutBack Premier H4. (Why Subaru doesn't factory install one for our Canadian climate baffles me, because they used to. Not only that but my Nissan 370Z Roadster has one installed, and no one in their right mind would drive it in the winter with its rear drive, and 275/35/19's. Shaking my head at that too.) The kit comes with a 14 mm hex bit tool, that is required to remove the block plug where the block heater element is to be installed. However, somewhere along the line Subaru has changed the plug size on my car to a 17 mm hex bit requirement. Unfortunately you don't find this out until you have drained the coolant, have the front exhaust removed and you can finally see the block plug. I went to 7 different stores that sold automotive tools only to find that they only stocked up to 16 mm allen hex bits, and most of them only in entire kits. A mechanic friend only had hex bits to 16 mm. After driving around for over an hour I tried a tool and parts supplier for diesel trucks whom I've done business with before. He allowed me to borrow one from a set for the promise of a quick return and a 12 pack of doughnuts for his staff. DEAL! The only problem with it was I had to remove the center exhaust header stud from the head because the tool was so long (almost 6 inches). Anyhow, job done, very happy, all is right with the world once more. So should you decide to install a block heater yourself, go for it, but if you're under a time constraint and need to drive the car to get to work the next day .... check to be sure that you have the correct hex tool bit for that block plug on your subie before you start the job.

Found it. After removing the front seat and really getting under the dash found a blue plug with a blk/ylw and blk/wht! Found its counterpart and I've got 12v at the solenoid now. Just have to wait out a battery charge to continue testing Thanks all for the help!

On a side note, the engine will turn over if I just jump 12v to the solenoid. Nothing learned, just did it for fun

Reason not to? How about it's not what Subaru calls for, what they do call for is about 1/4 the cost, and abundantly available. Maybe it won't do damage, in fact, it probably won't make anything worse. But why spend more on the wrong stuff? Plain Jane, no-name Dex/Merc is perfect and costs about $2.50/qt

Another trick is to fab up a 17mm bolt with two nuts locked on to it and welded for good measure. Then use your regular 17mm socket to do the job with your hex key adaptor. Cheers Bennie

do not use stop leak products in your Subaru. See my post above...

shorted wire in the door wiring. Circuit breaker and control box under passenger seat might be smoked, but circuit breaker is cutting out.......that's the gauge dropping and coming back up as the breaker cuts out. I'd check the heavy red wire that goes from a junction under passenger side foot carpet out ot hte doors. There is a crimp junction with 5 red wires collared in brass. Check that too for corrosion and re-wrap it with tape. trace that wire up intot eh door loom to find the short. If all doesn't return to normal after that, then replace control unit under pass seat.

Just ordered the Aisin kit.

it is far easier to just replace the top hat - KYB makes these in addition to struts for Subarus and they are a great fit.

many of us would use Valvoline MaxLife trans fluid in that car. I did. It's Dex II/III/VI w'ever compatible.

Try cleaning the idle air control valve (IACV). This could be causing issues with idle when cold. Not could be a number of other things too: - coolant temp sensor (*should* throw a check engine light) - dirty throttle position sensor contacts - dirty injectors Check the ECU for any stored codes. Find out what these relate to and investigate one by one. Fuel pump or dirty/poor fuel quality could cause issues too. Cheers Bennie

downstream (post cat conv) does nothing related to a:f or other parameters related to the engine's performancein that car (pretty sure only the H6es may use that sensor for a:f corrections). It is a 'nanny' for cat conv heating-up properly. hopefully, someone with more experience will replay but one thing you might do is, in a new thread, ask for recommendation of a soob-friendly shop near your city. Someone may know a good independent mechanic.

Nope, I've got a FWD Subie as well. 255,000 miles and just drove from Yakima, Washington to Illinois.