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It might be starving for fuel or have a clogged fuel filter or a failing fuel pump. Check the fuel pressure to see if it meets spec.

The engine that's in the car has been down on power for a little better than a year and the oil in it is on the keep full basis, so it needed done anyway.

Hmmmm, carbon brush under the centre of cap? I have burnt a few out on my mongrel which is NA

given the situation, I'd run a filter before the pump, at least for a while until clean tank is verified.

I would have done the relay first because the MAF sensor and fuel injectors do not work correctly without the proper voltage. One down. Just the other day I had to replace the new MAF bought in August on our 97. One from the junk yard fixed it. I did some research on your previous codes. Mass Air Flow sensor or No. 4 Injector or the wire to it, or maybe MAF and injector. P0204 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Malfunction. This code means the ECM detects a problem in the injector or its wiring, or in the injector circuit for cylinder 4. P3100 Ignition System Or Misfire Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too High Cold Start Injector Malfunction may also be triggered by faults earlier down the line. For example, a dirty MAF sensor might be causing the car to overcompensate in its fuel-trim adjustments. As a result, oxygen sensors are likely to report fuel mixture problems. P0104 This code means that there is an intermittent or erratic fault detected in the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit. The ECM detects that the actual MAF sensor frequency signal is not performing within the normal expected range of the calculated MAF value. P2000 NOx Trap Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank1) This code usually indicates a faulty oxygen sensor(s). However, in some instances it can also be used for a faulty catalytic converter as well, since the O2 sensors are located on the exhaust system along with the cat. converter(s). You should check your O2 sensors before replacing the catalytic converter.

The AT trans radiator fitted my MT perfectly, no bother with the nipples, so Ido, tnxs for your tip. Did a timing belt change while there, was all a pretty easy job honestly, much easier to do than on my 1st and 2nd gen legacies due to all radiator screws being at the top, just disconnect hoses and plugs, and it's off in a jiffy, then drop in inot the holes just as easy

Yep 12 mm head M8 1.25 pitch 13 mm of thread then 5 mm no thread where spring washer goes and bit bare no thread shaft of bolt sits inside clutch pressure plate Aftermarket bolts of this thread often come with 13 mm head instead of 12 mm

Subaru MT and AT radiators are identical in terms of fitment, so buy whichever is cheaper. AT will have ATF cooler and pipes. Sometimes those pipes need cut or bent to fit. As they’re unneeded, this doesn’t matter. Aftermarket radiators will make one radiator for both MT and AT. It makes sense AT are cheaper as volume is much higher.