Leaderboard

It can be done, but I would recommend cutting in the middle, turning the OD down to match some seamless heavy-wall tubing with some plug-welding holes pre-drilled in it. Press it into the sleeve with a .001" interference fit then weld up the ends and all the plugs. You should keep the splined ends wrapped in a wet rag to prevent them from losing their heat treat. GD

Been reusing mine for 10 or so years now. It's a washer.

This seems to be a common issue. Since you direct wired the solenoid that verifies that the starter and large wire to starter are good. I think you have also verified the neutral safety switch (has a different name on AT cars but same thing). What you can try is measuring the voltage at the solenoid connection when the key is turned to Start. If the voltage is low you could try adding a relay to the solenoid circuit that is powered directly from the battery. I did this for several years after replacing almost every part in the system to no avail. Since you said that there is no power at the solenoid when turned to start it may be the ignition switch or potentially a fuse.

Just because it's cutting power to the "acc" circuit doesn't tell you anything about the condition of the contacts in the "ST" circuit. I'd get the multimeter out and test for power coming out of it in that position. I wouldn't be surprised if it's nothing. Ignition and inhibitor switches have almost identical function, they can fail without warning.

Start circuit on that is not run through any relays other than the solenoid on the starter. Power before the ignition switch is shared, so the fact that it'll run, means that it's not a fuse or anything like that. It's either the ignition switch, inhibitor switch (on the side of the transmission, like you pictured), or a wiring break. Get out your multimeter and see where the power stops. The inhibitor switch has seperate contacts, so I've seen them fail in "Park", but still work in "Neutral". So if that doesn't work for you, I'd be inclined to ASSume ignition switch, but test it. Diagrams: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1995/1995 Legacy Wiring Diagrams.pdf Start circuit is on page 15. Super simple circuit.

Turns out the floormat was in the way of the pedal traveling far enough to touch the microswitch. kickdown works fine now. Glad it was an easy fix. Wouldnt have found that if I didnt know the microswitch was on the pedal assembly so thanks.

The problem can be as Mike104 said, or if you have anti-theft in could be a relay or something else. Had the same problem on 2 of our 95s and our 97 Legacy RHD with automatics. Most of the time they would start but some times the starter would not work. I added a Push Button to the starter circuit. Now my wife just turns the key on and hits the button if it don't start with the key. Very important on the mail route. Beside the steering wheel are 4 rectangles, two on the left and two on the right. One or two may be populated with push on - push off switches like for fog lights or something. Drop the steering wheel down with the release lever. Take out the 4 screws holding the bezel in front of the gauges and you will have access to the back side of it. Pop out the right rectangle and drill a hole (I think it is a 1/2 inch) in it to accommodate the push button switch. The one I used (20 or 30 AMP) is available at most auto parts stores. The button is silver. It fits tight. I only had to trim out a little plastic for it to fit. Mount it with the terminals facing to the right. You can tap into an empty spot on the fuse panel that is hot only with Ignition ON. Use a 1/4 inch male spade crimp connector. Hook that wire to one of the terminals on the switch. From the other terminal run a wire through a rubber plug in the firewall and over to the starter. At the starter solenoid connection I did this. Get a male spade connector and an insulated female spade connector and a 4 inch piece of wire. Crimp the short wire and the wire from the push button switch in the male connector. Crimp the insulated female connector on the other end of the short wire. Unplug the wire from the starter solenoid and plug it onto the male connector and then plug the female connector onto the starter solenoid. Now if the key does not start the engine, just hit the push button. Keep in mind that it will start no matter where the shifter is...…… Most people are in the habit of having it in park.

Tonight my plan was to take a gander at the exhaust and figure out why it was so loud, plus the coolant temp sensor because according to my research & receipts it may need attention instead I stuck to what I’m good at (not great but passable anyway, I know enough to HATE swirl marks) I gave her a wash & wax and cleaned the filthy interior... granted the exterior was also filthy. (I also followed a redditors suggestion to try water remover & fuel injector cleaner) This poor car was COVERED in pine needles and tar... tar is still there unfortunately, but my heart aches for the dirty girl. If I ever let my STI get that dirty please shoot me. edit: tomorrow I want to drive it to work, but first I want to take a decibel reading of the exhaust and see how legal or illegal it is. I’m also going to get a compression tester and try to see what’s going on there. I’ve also decided to lower my standards for my short term goals with this car. It’s been running like hot garbage for eight years apparently. Right now I’m desperate to get it to idle and quiet down the exhaust so I’m legal, and hopefully get it to pass inspection. I’ll attempt to sort out the other stuff next year, after the holidays when I have money again.

He is just as sick and twisted as the rest of us GD ! I was on codeine flu tablets when I found my AX7 for sale online. I seem to recall I thought I was buying a Ford Probe

Lol , old guys like me have to chuckle , you’d better make a separate post. Sounds cool , but I’m just happy to use and abuse stock. The original bulbs in new fresh condition are out there. An old guy like me would be happy just to have them all working. Please post a nice night shot of the cluster when you’ve got it done and make me envious.

Thank you, purchased the starlink app, will post a response of what I find out. Thank you for the info.

fix the headgasket, sell the car, buy a turbo Forester to play with.

The hissing sound is probably the diaphragm in the booster leaking.

I've never tried. It's not uncommon for us to replace entire sections of supply line with nylon braided AN lines for higher volume applications. Mitsubishi EVO's have small feed/return lines and need to be upgraded at about 500 WHP or so. Look at the kits for this - they use braided AN hose for the supply and use the old supply as the return. Armored hose, properly installed and secured with grommets where needed, is perfectly acceptable in our opinion. GD

On that style you just press in on the white plastic tabs and it will pull off. It's a special end on the pipe that you can't replicate with any reasonably priced tooling that I know of. You are going to have to replace that with some braided stainless hose and do some metric bubble flares to either swivel fittings or barb fittings, etc. This isn't going to be easy really. You might want to seek professional help. GD